Shop found $1200 worth of fixing..... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Holson Adi · #1 06-20-2002, 06:29 PM

I can't believe this.

Found...
1. Transmission overfilled (I don't get this.. I checked it last time and it was fine....)
2. I need a new driveshaft!!!!!! $850 incl. labor + two new flex discs!
3. I need new rear rotors and pads $385! The pads were fine last time I checked. In fact three shops confirmed that the pads were new! Do these pads wear out in 900 mi?

I'm gonna have to find a way to drain that transmission... I can't work in the parking garage either... sigh.. this guy wants $70 to drain my ATF....

Holson Adi · #2 06-20-2002, 06:48 PM

Well he got too technical and got me completely LOST when he talked about the driveshaft, its splines, etc.

Well I can only pic. a standard Universal joint and that the u-joints are worn...

Basically he told me that the driveshaft could be moved about....

rear brakes I think I'll do myself...
I'll just go to my friend's place and do it there some other time.

I'll get that pump tomorrow and do it! Thanks.
It's about 1/2" to 3/4" above the max limit when I took a measure (engine was shut off, and tranny was in P)

Jason Beal · #3 06-20-2002, 06:49 PM

I have to agree with the above post. The rotors/pads are a sinch to do, if they need to be done. Maybe you have a friend who will let you do the work at his/her house? I'd get a second opinion for sure, before getting any work done. (I remember doing the pads/rotors on the rear of my 190e took maybe half an hour.) If you do replace the drive shaft, it never hurts to call around for quotes. I just did my trannie fluid via the top and it took maybe ten minutes to do-very easy. Good luck.

leathermang · #4 06-20-2002, 06:52 PM

You may can drain most of the trans fluid out by suction and siphon.... go to the hardware store and look for clear tubing about one quarter inch inside diameter or less.. it may be Tigon.... get about 8 feet... in one piece... and get large clear bottle.. like for water... and cut the end of the hose that is going into the trans filler tube at a slight angle... if it is flat then it may rest on the bottom and not allow any fluid to come out... so stick it in as far as it will go to hit the bottom..then suck on it and get it started and after it is headed down towards the bottle stick that end into the bottle... I did this to get one quart out to put in Transx into a ford last Saturday.. this is not the fast way... it took three hours to get the quart out because I was using very small tubing....
Remember that the trans is supposed to be checked at a specific temperature...
Why do you need a new driveshaft ? Very few things on a driveshaft are not fixable... only if you have actually twisted the tube.. and then a speciality driveshaft shop can usually slap one right on... and it won't cost what they are quoting you...
Check to see how those rear rotors go on... some are very easy do it yourself deals.. only involving buying a couple of specific wrench items and maybe a breaker bar... Not too expensive compared to what they are saying... The only thing I have found when putting new rotors plus new pads is that sometimes you can not depress the pistons enough to get the pads on without some sanding... just keep them even if you have to do that...and watch out for the dust...

Ken300D · #5 06-20-2002, 07:18 PM

I just can't believe you need rear rotors. Those things should last nearly forever - not much braking going on with the rear wheels.

I'd say you should be able to verify the ATF level easily yourself.

The rear rotors and brakes you can check yourself too.

If you have one of the rear wheels up in the air and a jackstand under the car, you can grab the driveshaft and check for movement.

Anything can be the case, but it just sounds to me like someone is trying to find an excuse to work on your car. If you check some of these things yourself and find out they are not accurate - don't go back to that mechanic!

Ken300D

Holson Adi · #6 06-20-2002, 08:33 PM

I couldn't find a siphon pump (it was too late in the day). I think I'm just going to take the car to a small diesel shop. He'll probably charge me a very small amount of money to drain that ATF and confirm the drive shaft thing. Unless I can find a siphon pump in the morning..

I found a suction gun but that thing's hose is so big that I don't think it'll go into the dipstick tube...

I'm gonna look around for a driveshaft shop. BTW, I don't think they'd lie about the driveshaft play..

TimFreeh · #7 06-20-2002, 08:34 PM

ATF level should be measured with the engine RUNNING (at idle), transmission at normal operating temp and on a level surface with the transmission in park. Your prior post mentioned that the level was too high with the engine off - you might want to re-check with the engine on. If the level is OK I would try to find a new shop. I have never seen (or heard of) a driveshaft having to be replaced due to bad splines.

Tim

#8 06-20-2002, 08:47 PM

I use a hand pump for ATF siphon. I found it in the $1 bin at the local auto parts shop.

Holson Adi · #9 06-20-2002, 09:01 PM

I checked it again and it is about 3/4" above max. I really don't understand why....... it seems like someone put in that extra ATF in the transmission.

Kyle Blackmore · #10 06-20-2002, 10:05 PM

Hi Holson,you must check the trans level with the transmission at operating temp!!If the trans is simply warm you will get an inaccurate reading(low),I did the same thing myself

it was easy to drain off a little fluid by loosening the drain plug and letting some dribble out.The driveshaft thing sounds like your mechanic is trying to fix a problem by replacing the unit...this is a Mercedes,you can fix all the little parts

2 flexplates and the center bearing are the parts you fix,if you need a new driveshaft it's because it isn't there anymore

psfred · #11 06-20-2002, 10:05 PM

Holson:

You only need a drive shaft if the center joint is bad. There is only one u-joint on an MB driveshaft (the differential is bolted to the body, not on a moving axle). This joint is pretty much non-replaceable (it can be done, but it is straked in place, which takes special tools no one will have and must be balanced, and without the $1500 adapters, no one will be able to use the typical balancing machines). I replaced mine in the 220 and it still vibrates.

The carrier bearing mount can go out, allowing the driveshaft to move excessively, but this and the bearing are easy to replace so long as the shaft is marked properly -- it must be reassembled EXACTLY as it was -- even one spline off on the connetor will cause it to vibrate.

You probably have a bad flex disk -- the large rubber pad between the driveshaft and the tranny on one end and the diff on the other. When these go bad, you get a thump, particularly on downshifts.

Rotors need to be replaced every third set of pads or so-- the quick and dirty test is to check for a discernable lip at the outer edge. The pads don't completely cover the disk, and when the metal is worn down enough to see and feel a distinct ridge where the pads don't cover, the rotor is too thin. Just replacing pads will result in stuck calipers when the new pads wear down. They hit the anti-rattle spring and cock the pistons. When this happens, the calipers overheat and cook the rubber, then leak or permanently stick the pistons. Rotors run in the area of $45 and are easy to replace.

Peter

Holson Adi · #12 06-20-2002, 10:51 PM

Thanks for all the input guys! It sounds more reassuring now.

I just wonder what kinda damage I might have done to the transmission. I really really wonder who put in that extra ATF in the tranny. I know I didn't. Last time I checked the fluid level was about a month ago and it was FINE!

I must admit though that the car shifts somewhat harder lately. In fact.. very recently.... The vacuum system is strong I know that for sure.

draining the excess ATF tomorrow... hope it sorts things out. Maybe I'll have a shop check the trans. modulator setting too.

BTW, I can't believe I thought about selling it. However after I did, I drove the car and I just don't think I want to! Nothing quite compares to the driving enjoyment!

Robert W. Roe · #13 06-20-2002, 11:21 PM

One thing no one has brought up yet about checking ATF levels is that the car itself must be parked on a very level surface.

DCM · #14 06-21-2002, 03:40 AM

Did you get a second opinion?

My experience with dealers and "expert" MB repairmen is that they want to build you a new car when you go in for simple repairs.

I switched to regular repair shops years ago, and have had good luck and saved a lot of money. Mercedes are generally pretty easy to work on and if you stay away from the dealers, parts aren't too bad either. There are some jobs that I would take to a dealer or MB repair shop but not too many.

You can get the parts discounted and so can they and labor costs will be lower and so far, no one has wanted to rebuild my car like the other shops were doing.

Holson Adi · #15 06-21-2002, 01:47 PM

Drained the excess ATF and now it shifts just like it did before. No more shifting problem now.

Took the car to a small shop that I usually go to and he jacled the car up and showed it to me. If what I thought was the drive shaft ( the big huge fat tube) was indeed it, then I saw no play nor did he. He also felt the smaller front section (near the tranny after the flex disk) and it was also fine.

The flex discs looked good too in fact reallly good as if someone did a huge job and got sick of the car and sold it.

I trust this guy as all he works on is MB's (pretty damn much!) some BMW's and mostly diesels.

Then the car started shaking a lot after I put in some cheap diesel fuel (I was running out of fuel......) and as I walked behind the car.. I could clearly hear a banging whose rythm is the same as the pipe. It isn't loud banging... but just tapping sound.

I guess as the engine heats up (it's very hot out) the exhaust starts vibrating more.

oh well.. Premium Diesel from Texaco cured the shake and all was fine.

I'm still going to pursue the banging but I think it's one of the bushings in the rear suspension or the exhaust.

BTW, there was a 280E in the shop and it sounded really nice... I liked it... :p