I have been working on some replacement throttle pivot bushings that are similar to the originals (with a few tweaks) and I am finally at a point where I can reliably produce them.

Have a few people trying them out, one driving many miles a day without issues.

Still working to perfect them cosmetically, but each has been tested in an actual w123 mount to be sure of functionality.

They are polyurethane with oil impregnated center bushing and are pretty darn smooth, you will have to re-use your mount plate with this kit, working on a complete solution with mounting plate, but wanted to get these out there quickly. Producing some 3D printed ones too, still testing them.

Put an etsy store up if anyone is interested: https://www.etsy.com/DMERCINC/listing/926478734/mercedes-w123-polyurethane-throttle?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1610563584099

3d printed in nylon should be pretty durable.

will you be posting the stm file?

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1977 240D auto w/OM616.916 engine
2005 Matrix 5spd
2006 Prius

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AdP7i8xfCJeFuk5y9

glass pendant necklace http://glasspendantnecklace.com

fused glass pendant http://fusedglasspendant.com

Nice, glad you posted here Dutch. Looks like a great product that will bring a lot of life back to some cars.

The rubber is what fails and causes "low power", not the pivot bushing.

Both parts fail, and the pivot bushing more than the rubber, in my experience.

it is excellent to see forum members taking NLA parts issues into their own hands!

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1983 300D Midnight Blue
4 speed, W115 intake mani, non-EGR exhaust mani, KKK K26, 3 pc Euro bumpers, Lo-spec Euro headlights, AL129X, hubcaps, custom A/C

1987 300TD Smoke Silver
Euro headlights, thermostat relocation, coolant bypass mod, rebuilt Becker + Jehnert + Helix audio, OEM Oris roof boxes and surfboard racks, Euro towbar

1983 300TD Reed (Moss) Green / Dark Olive MB Tex Euro spec

1983 300TD Silver Blue / Blue cloth Euro spec, OM648 and 722.6, 15" hubcaps, W126 S2 brakes

Someone needs to print the little plastic interior parts that are brittle and break - Seat trim, plastic cover for the seat belt mount, sun visor clip etc. Then find an acceptable rattle can pant close to the various interior colors or use colored plastic if you can.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

There was sun visor clips on eBay but they did not have the electrical conductive parts on them. There is not a choice of colors. I bought some 5 years ago but my originals have not broken yet so I have no used them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I bought these off of ebay a few months ago. I needed blue and was pleased with the quality.

They do have other colors.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Sun-Visor-Mount-Clip-Dark-Blue-Fits-Mercedes-W123-W124-W125-W126-W463-Classic/292923683512?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

My most recent purchase: an 82' 300D had a pivot bushing with great rubber but the bushing was cracked. Replacing with a good part lent to a noticeable improvement in pedal feel. It was less 'mushy' after the swap. So, not low power situation, like you said, but it was a worthwhile replacement.

When did this part go NLA? I just ordered one in april of 19. It was $57 bucks but well worth it.

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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660

Oh I guess they are "out of stock" everywhere. I am glad I got mine when I did.
Not to change the subject, but I can't find any bosch re manufactured starters. Has anyone else tried to find any lately?

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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660

Hey Dutch! Glad you posted here.

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

I bought an ACDElco that was supposed to be a remanufactured Bosch. It probably was, but it was dead on arrival. Only found that out after it was installed.

ACDElco wouldn't even discuss the issue with me. Learning - No more ACDelco parts for me!

Had local autoelectric shop rebuild my old starter. Works great.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Discount to $40 shipped for forum members????!!

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Not an answer but there is official Bosch Auto part sites.

As long as your Armature is good parts are available to do it yourself or you can get parts and turn it over to a local place to rebuild it.

The main parts if they are no good that you want to be Bosch are the Solenoid and the Bendix/Overruning clutch. There is an updated part number for the solenoid on my year and mode.

I did a partial rebuild of my Starter in Sep 2019. It had stopped working entirely even when juperwired. I thought it was the Solenoid shot.

When I took it apart and got inside I found the Brushes were severely worn.

I bought a Bosch Brush Kit with metal tabs on it and screws+Nuts and a new Bosch Solenoid. While I was taking my time with that I continued parts searches and found that Monark sells kits with Brushes and all of the Bushings (but for some reason lacks the Screws+Nuts for the Brushes).

The Bendix/Overruning clutch (the part number is on it) and no symptoms of not working. After reading some of what others posted I found out the Solenoid could be OK and that the worn brushes mimicked a bad solenoid (and that turned out to be the case).

The commutator on the armature needed to be cleaned up which would have best been done on a lathe or simply giving it to an auto machine shop to do that. I just did as I always have on all of my other cars since 1969 and sanded it and picked the mushed over copper out the spaces.

Although I eventually got the Kit with the Bushings none of mine had an appreciable wear so I did not replace them. There is a bushing on an intermediate plate that is heavily staked in. The rest would not be hard to change.

The only issue with the Brushes is that 2 are welded to the Brush Plate and 2 to the Fields but a serrated knife cut through that.The Fields and Bush plate are pre-drilled for the Brushes with Tabs.

So I decided to reuse the old solenoid and have been driving like that since around Oct-2019 with no issues.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel