1982 US, w123 wood dash trim best mounting method

[gregp1962]

I'm replacing the wood trim on my dash. The old trim has these steel mounting plates. What is the best way to remove the old ones and the best way to put the new ones on? I bought the new ones from an ebay supplier in Turkey. They are beautiful. Bit, they don't have the annoying steel mounting plate on them. What is the best wat to handle this?




http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/gregp1962-albums-repairs-picture6251-dash-trim.jpg

[Sugar Bear]

I'd look at using 3M automotive double sided moulding tape. It might work well as the tape would make up the thickness lost from no metal. The tape is about $7 a roll, one should be enough.

Good luck!!!

[gregp1962]

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

I'd look at using 3M automotive double sided moulding tape. It might work well as the tape would make up the thickness lost from no metal. The tape is about $7 a roll, one should be enough.

Good luck!!!

Thanks!! Has anyone else used this product? Or any other methods?

[HughO]

Originally Posted by gregp1962

Thanks!! Has anyone else used this product? Or any other methods?

I used epoxy with some thickener to mount to the plate. permanent.

[gregp1962]

Originally Posted by HughO

I used epoxy with some thickener to mount to the plate. permanent.

How do you get that plate off the dash? As you could see from the OP, I pulled the trim off the dash and it came off the metal plate. The metal plate stayed on the dash.

[Sugar Bear]

I've used the moulding tape on many things instead of drilling holes, screwing, riveting etc. It holds body side mouldings on vehicle exteriors at high speeds, it will keep the wood on a dash all day long.

Good luck!!!

[Mike D]

The best way to remove the metal backings is to remove the dash and un-twist the metal tabs/flanges securing the plates.

Another way, which requires finesse and a steady hand, is to carefully grind the metal plate using a Dremel tool and metal bit at the edges where the tab goes through the vinyl. The cut off tabs will either push through using a small screwdriver/pick or can be left in place.

Go slow and gentle. You want to keep the heat at a minimum to avoid melting the vinyl.

How does the thickness of the replacement pieces compare to the original wooden strips?

If they are the same thickness they are designed to be glued to the metal plate and not to the vinyl. Use an epoxy and try to avoid getting the epoxy on the vinyl as much as possible.

Do NOT use "Gorilla Glue" or its ilk. Those styles of glue expand as they cure and usually either ooze out around the edges or bubble the wood.

[gregp1962]

Originally Posted by Mike D

The best way to remove the metal backings is to remove the dash and un-twist the metal tabs/flanges securing the plates.

"remove the dash"??? Yeah, I'm not going to do that. I have put the dash center trim piece in there without removing the metal backing plate. I sanded the metal clean with a rough sand paper and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. Then I CAREFULLY warmed it up with a heat gun on low and stuck it on while warm with two sided tape. I used two sided tape made by Gorilla Glue. It's tape not glue. So it won't expand. It is holding extremely well. But, the real test will be to see how it holds in the summer heat in about 4 months. I guess I'll do this with the remaining pieces.

If anyone has a suggestion as to how to remove the metal without disassembling my car, I'd love to hear it.

[BWhitmore]

It is possible to bend the metal tangs by removing the glove box liner and the instrument cluster. The tangs will bend straight with your fingers. Your solution to use the Gorilla two sided tape looks like a good solution.

[dcraigk]

3M VHB foam tape.

[Mike D]

Originally Posted by gregp1962

"remove the dash"??? Yeah, I'm not going to do that.

You asked for the best way to remove the metal strips, NOT the easiest/best way to replace the wood bits. I answered the question you asked.

Those wood pieces look nice. Really sharpens up the dash area.

The tabs on the glove compartment can be accessed by disassembling the door. Removing the instrument cluster, the air ducting, a small pair of pliers, a bit of contorting and a moderate amount of cursing will enable you to bend the tabs on the lower LHS strip. Removing the glove compartment, ducting etc. gives you access to the RHS strip.

Oops! I see BWhitmore beat me to the tangs answer. No way I know of to access the center panel tangs without removing the dash or doing the Dremel tool routine.

[gregp1962]

Originally Posted by Mike D

You asked for the best way to remove the metal strips, NOT the easiest/best way to replace the wood bits. I answered the question you asked.

Those wood pieces look nice. Really sharpens up the dash area.

Thanks for the input guys!! So far, I'm really happy with the Gorilla Glue TAPE. (NOT glue) I did use the 3M tape a few years ago. As I recall, it didn't hold for long.

In the summer, I'll try to remember to come back to this thread and report on how it is holding up in the heat.

I bought these pieces from an ebay seller in Turkey. His ebay name is woodandcarbonworks. He ships extremely fast to the US. I'm pretty sure he manufactures them himself. The pieces look so much better than the stock. I had to buy the full set because the new ones looked so much better than the old ones that you can't just replace some of them. Look at the picture in post #8 where the center strip, which is new, is more vibrant looking than the strip on the glove box which hadn't yet been replaced.

[gregp1962]

Here's the newly installed Zebrano from this ebay seller. https://www.ebay.com/usr/woodandcarbonworks?_trksid=p2047675.l2559