Does seem to be a common theme. So what do you think, should one splurge for the genunie Mer Benz tumbler cartridge at $174.25? Or the Febi at $21.50?

Weird choice.

Kent's method was to grind off the bit of metal that connects into the slot inside the black sleeve thingy. I did that and it seemed to affect the other nearby parts. OTOH, with that part ground down, would it matter? Would be a tad weird to experiment in that manner on an MB part.

I think I'll order a Febi and experiment. Then stick it in my 300D if I can get the tumblers out.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I'm not sure ~

If possible I'd lay hands on another OEM lock cylinder and see if I could get it apart .

Some areas still have small local lock smiths, I'm lucky as I found one to sort out my 'unserviceable' Ford Ranger door locks, they're fine now .

The disabling of the steering lock might or might not help, many don't understand the need to slightly move the steering wheel to relieve tension when starting the car .

Modern vehicles have designed this issue out .

Keep us posted .

I used to find old cars with the keys still in them, not so much these days .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

For other in the situation dont put grease or oil in the lock to make it easy to turn ,,i did and no way could i stop the starter motor from engaging..Only way i could stop this was to removed the battery leads .

If you stick the plastic tube that is on a WD-40 spray can into the slot on the Tumbler the WD-40 has a chance to hose the metal particles out of the mechanism. In mild weather in about a week the WD-40 evaporates and there is little if anything to attract dust or hold particles.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

WD40 is a SOLVENT, no typ of lubricant .

Using it to wash out dirt and debris is O.K. but you -MUST- lubricate the lock cylinder after or it'll grind it self to junk in short order .

Graphite is the correct lubricant .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

You keep saying that but it indeed lubes till it evaporates like a week later. Some solvents can leave an oily film.

I have 7 padlocks that have lived outside for like 18 years. When one has an issue I use WD-40 inside of them and it quickly frees them up and does that for 6 months to a year. Cheap Pad Lock have steel parts.

"A QUESTION OF LUBRICATION
Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal."

"WHAT'S STODDARD SOLVENT?
Myth: WD-40® contains Stoddard Solvent.

Fact: Over the past few decades, the name Stoddard Solvent was synonymous with all mineral spirits. Today, the mineral spirits found in products like ours are more refined and processed (see hydrogenation, hydrotreating and distillation techniques) providing mixtures with varying boiling points, cleaning ability, and chemical composition.

The catchall phrase “Stoddard Solvent” is no longer adequate to tell the proper story. WD-40® does indeed have 50% mineral spirits, but they are refined and purified for specific characteristics needed to meet today’s performance, regulatory and safety requirements."

Mineral Spirits which is the old school paint thinner is indeed slippery and does not dry up fast like break cleaner does. While it is still around it has some lubricating properties.

"BIKE FRIENDLY
Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.

Fact: While WD-40® Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients, and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to wipe off any excess WD-40® Multi-Use Product before riding.

For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle maintenance needs, check out WD-40® BIKE. Developed specifically for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike mechanics for decades."

https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/

General History:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

"WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to the US Material Safety Data Sheet information,[16] and with the CAS numbers interpreted:[17]

WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to the US Material Safety Data Sheet information,[16] and with the CAS numbers interpreted:[17]

45-50 % low vapor pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon (isoparaffin)
<35% petroleum base oil (non hazardous heavy paraffins)
<25% aliphatic hydrocarbons (same CAS number as the first item, but flammable)
2-3% carbon dioxide (propellant)"

I hope the above clarifies the issue.

On padlocks dry graphite is not going to free up stuck lock especially if it has rust inside. The WD-40 does that. There used to be sprays that had some liquid and graphite but since I don't use those I have not seen any of that since he 1970's

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

By your own words you agree it's not a lubricant .

Liquid graphite is indeed available , I use it all the time as well as annually on my various 30 + year old out side padlocks .

Using that crap on a drive chain is laughable .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

That was superseded by the knowledge gained form the sites in post number 36.

Don't know who this is directed to? What I remember being mentioned was a bicycle chain. Clearly WD-40 on a poorly lubed bicycle chain can only help.

People will make their own decisions based on what they know and their own experiences.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I hate to admit it but it's becoming more and more clear that my fingers are getting weak, and that's a big part of my problem. I just finished, 2 weeks ago, a 6 round session (once every 3 weeks) of chemotherapy for non-Hodgkins lymphoma. I appear to be in remission, saints be praised, now I just need to recover from the chemo. My feet, legs, and hands are temporarily (God willing) a tad weak. Freaky stuff. But at the worst of my NHL symptoms the weakness was worse.

I made this device out of maple to take the burden off my fingers. Works great. My key is sorta thick.



I put it on just before the last toggle into position 2, I don't force it, a bit of jiggling will get it easily into place for the mighty leverage to do it's thing and engage the starter.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Best Wishes.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel