To me the key phrase is, "When [the steering wheel] moves in each direction, the wheels dont move, thats why it feels so loose."

Also, I reiterate that I don't know how you can "adjust" the slop out of the steering if it's caused by worn ball joints and the like (besides the fact that the OP said the entire front end was replaced). If you have 2" of play cause by worn out tie rods, how would you be able to make the steering tight by literally only adjusting the part attached to the steering wheel (the steering box)? If you adjust the box and that fixes it then it's the box.

Anyway, my experience was the opposite of popular advice. Replacing every front end component still left the car dangerously sloppy to steer. Adjusting the box fixed that, so I'm a fan.

I always forget that these cars are both built like tanks and as delicate as teacups though.

The rear steer is much more pronounced in the 124 vs 123 if the link is loose. On the 123 it is the sway bar linkage. ON the 124 the link that comes loose is about twice the size of the sway link. The 124 may also have the sway bar links. On the 124 if the link is loose the rear end really moves a lot when you come on or off the gas. On the 123 the rear feels a bit wobbly on turning of the steering wheel.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Just wanna add my 2 cents....not an expert, don't claim to know it all, and ONLY because no one mentioned it previously. As for adjusting the steering gear box (recirculating ball, very common unit on many, many vehicles over many, many years, especially U.S. cars and trucks)....a very simple/durable yet complicated design (find an exploded image), this procedure should only be done AFTER removing the "weight on wheels". Similar to checking ball joint play/wear. Jack the front end underneath each outboard lower suspension point (nearest the ball joint), thereby unloading the wheels/steering. This is the only way to accurately check how much free play is actually in the gearbox (short of removing, disassembling and measuring the internal clearances of the box). Now, while watching the front tire, reach in and turn the steering wheel (gently) back and forth and see/feel how far the steering wheel moves BEFORE the front tire moves. This is the "free play". This allows you to see AND feel where and how much play there is. Of course, the engine is "OFF" and the power steering is NOT in play here.
If it moves less than 1" before seeing the tires move, that's probably not the problem.
Also keep in mind, and this is also a WARNING, it takes VERY LITTLE rotation of the adjustment screw to make a huge difference. DO NOT over do it! We're talking FRACTIONS of 1 revolution here.....maybe an 8th, 16th or 1/4 of a turn. Your steering could lock up while driving, during a turn (not a good scenario, if you think about it) if over-adjusted.
Don't expect the adjustment to fix all of your steering/handling problems. It's only one piece of a very intricate puzzle.
There's a member on this forum that rebuilds these recirculating ball steering gear boxes for a very reasonable fee. I'd highly recommend that route if you feel yours is toast.
Disclaimer: Do not attempt this if you're not sure what you're doing. This procedure is NOT recommended for amateurs or experimenters. Your safety behind the wheel could easily be compromised by an incorrect adjustment.
And, as always: "A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing"

There are specs for steering box adjustment for the 126 in the FSM. There is likely similar in the 123 FSM.

Dodge Rams are known for steering problems. The process to diagnose is to lift the car with weight on the wheels and have someone move the steering wheel while another person looks for any tiny amount of play at any of the joints in the steering linkage.

You can also turn the intermediate shaft going into the steering box and look for play in the box that isn't reflected in the pitman arm. You can adjust the box but need to be aware and not get it too tight, Refer to the specs and procedure in the FSM.

There is a thread with pics where a member built the box and rigged a way to measure the force required to turn the box. you may get lucky and find it.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

The center of the steering is going to have a bit of play after all these years. It sounds like you're within spec, maybe a bit beyond.

Your box is likely a bit worn and yes, you can adjust some lash out of it, but I wouldn't.

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

Yeah I think the steering box is worn out aswell. I figured it was in decent shape because it wasn't leaking or anything.

The steering boxes are interchangeable from 115 to 126 that I know of. Possibly more.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The innards of w115, w123, r107, and w126 are quite similar and some parts can be interchanged.

However, the boxes are not interchangeable as the case of each box have different mounting points to the chassis.

__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

I would agree with your last statement to say not ALL are interchangible. I have removed boxes marked 115 from 123 chassis and possibly the 126 as well.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

What you are seeing is a part number for the box housing. Just like many other parts from Mercedes, the first three numbers are to indicate the first chassis that the base part was designed for. It has no real connection to the chassis/model that a part is used on.

Below is a picture of the box on my car (1984 300D). You can see the number R 116 461 04 01 on the side of the case. That's just the part number of the case.



On the same box you'll see on the pitman arm shaft plate another number. R 123 451 04 03. This is the part number for that plate.



To identify a box and what car it came from you're really going to want to look at the bolt pattern where it mounts to the car. Each is unique.

__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]