Does anyone have a particular order these things are supposed to be snugged down before this bolt underneath will line up with the intercooler pipe? I had the corrugated tube snugged up and the manifold bolts somewhat snugged and the manifold and pipe holes do not line up enough to get the bolt started. I took all the manifold bolts out eventually and loosened the corrugated clamp and still it won't line up. I'm out there by myself having to attempt this to finish up the job and no matter what I do or what bolts I take out, this damn bolt STILL won't line up so I can get the bolt started.

Remove the lower bolt from the intercooler pipe where it bolts up to the block , where the hose joins it and the pipe is easier to then fit as it can be moved in all directions/ angles.

Next time get some threaded rod around four inches long, put a couple of nuts at one end leaving exposed threads the same length as the standard bolt, tighten them against each other or a blob of weld to secure and the other end weld a short stub to make a ‘T ‘ handle and this you will find easier as you can then hold a torch in one hand and use the t handle to lift the pipe into place before securing.

I would always fit the pipe last .

Alright, next time I head out there I'll look for that mount so hopefully I can wiggle the ic pipe and get it to line up enough to get it started. I appreciate the tip.

I've been dealing with this damn car all afternoon trying to get 1 bolt to go in. I even went and got a stud (m6x1.0) just like the bolt that came out, even a threaded rod in the same size. Either the stud goes in and I can get a nut on the bottom but the corrugated pipe won't line up and clamp down, or just like before, the corrugated pipe will clamp on but the bolt won't line up. And I can't get anyone over here to help wiggle the manifold and try to get it to line up some for me.

Even though the parts I bought at the hardware store are the same size as the old bolt, they thread in a little and then just slide through. It's like the very tip is the right size but in the middle it's marginally smaller allowing it to slide through. This car has been royally pissing me off for almost 2 weeks just trying to do these fuel hoses, glow plugs, and other maintenance in the area. I should have just removed the washer tank and changed out the fuel pump shutoff valve that I suspect was leaking and causing it to lose prime in the first place and said to hell with the rest of this garbage.

Highly recommend deleting the EGR along with a ECU tune. This makes removing the intake manifold bone simple.

I was actually considering that heavily! Once it's unbolted/removed from the passenger side of the block, does the corrugated tube remove easily or is there some devil bracket holding it to the back of the block that's impossible to get to? Who tunes ECUs here in the states to get rid of it? We do have emissions here but I think all they do for diesels before like 04 or something is look for a CEL and a visual catalytic converter check, maybe a sniffer test in the tail pipe.

Rocketchip in PA or Speedtuning in MD can do the tune. I had it done by Sean Tracey in Europe. This will eliminate the CEL for the EGR.

The EGR delete is a big silicone coupler and a plug for the manifold end. It completely eliminates the issue with the bolt you are having a hard time with. All you need is a phillips screw for the coupler on the bottom of the manifold once the delete is done.

Not on a Mercedes but I had it happen on a chevy V-6 exhaust manifold. I found that the manifold was warped. I resurfaced it as best could so surfices were closer to being flat and I elongated the hole so in my case it was a stud would go through it.

No sure if you did it this way or not. Put all the nuts and or bolts on before you tighten any of them. If it is a hole you can take a tapered punch stick it in the hole and lever it in the direction you want it to go and hope that helps enough to get the bolt in.

This is a little hazardous. I have taking tip of the threaded end of the bolt and tapered it so it would get started into the hole. The hazard is cross threading.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel