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What do you do when this throttle piece breaks? W123 300CD 1982 US
This picture is the one that is NOT broken. My other car has the rubber piece that broke in half while driving. I guess they are not being made anymore. Does anyone have any good ideas to either fabricate a more permanent fix or get a "new" one?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...3-throttle.jpg |
I just 3D printed the white piece for my 300D. There are a bunch of ideas posted last week here:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/410275-fix-fire-wall-throttle-linkage-pivot-bushing-84-300d.html I was thinking of making a mold with my 3D printer and casting one like a skate wheel. One that uses cheap skate bearings 608z instead of plastic bushings. There are a bunch of people already doing this on Etsy and eBay so I’m going to stick with my 3D printed “ball”. No need to add another product to the mix. Edit - oh wait, Greg do you mean the black piece is broken? The white ball is trashed in your photo. Luckily all I needed was the ball part. Maybe two new urethane parts, ball + rectangular block need to be casted. I think there is some kind of primer that helps urethane mold making compound stick to steel. Come to think of it my black rectangle piece has some cracks. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...752ded7e46.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4cd58f1f49.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5f89bb990b.jpg |
Search "1233001340" on Ebay and you will find a number of options, including a replacement for the plastic ball.
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[QUOTE=ykobayashi;4188616]oh wait, Greg do you mean the black piece is broken? The white ball is trashed in your photo. Luckily all I needed was the ball part. Maybe two new urethane parts, ball + rectangular block need to be casted. I think there is some kind of primer that helps urethane mold making compound stick to steel. Come to think of it my black rectangle piece has some cracks.
Looks like both the white ball and the black rubber are both trashed on mine. I'll do more research including checking Ebay like Tango suggested. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...le-bearing.jpg |
Broken Rubber Part
Yes, this fails too, it failed on my '82 240D in slow city traffic , I just zip tied it back together and it was fine until I found another one .
I've seen quite a few of these broken like this and repaired, I think the simplest repair was to clamp the two pieces in a drill vise and then drill two 5MM holes straight through both metal plates and the rubber, tap the inner (firewall side) plate to 6MM X 1.0 thread and then rustle up two cheese headed long 6MM screws ~ for anyone not a Mechanic it looked stock . I wonder if "URO" brands is considering making these ? . |
Screws sounds like a great idea but you lose the vibration isolation. Not that it really needs it tho. My plastic ball is rock solid and I still don’t notice a difference.
I think I’m going to try to fill in the cracks on the black rubber part with roof flashing urethane. Loctite PL I think it’s called. |
Quote:
If you can zip tie it back together that means someone could wrap wire around it and do the same. |
N.V.H. Issue
Yes, I thought so too why I binned that one as soon as I found a good new one .
I didn't notice any vibration in the foot feed either way . |
Quote:
1233002325 |
1233002325
Yep ;
That's it, N.L.A. . Now that you have the correct part number begin searching EBay DE, UK and so on.. . |
Well, I bolted the two steel plates together with the rubber in between. I used 5mm bolts. These alan wrench heads had a lower profile so I chose them. There is absolutely NO noticeable vibration.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ge-bushing.jpg |
Nice fix. I like the bolts. They’re secure. I was thinking of a urethane based glue like 3m 5200 or Gorilla clear but if it fails you lose your accelerator.
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If I ever have this piece off of my other W123, I'm going to do this as preemptive fix.
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