This picture is the one that is NOT broken. My other car has the rubber piece that broke in half while driving. I guess they are not being made anymore. Does anyone have any good ideas to either fabricate a more permanent fix or get a "new" one?

I just 3D printed the white piece for my 300D. There are a bunch of ideas posted last week here:

Fix A Fire Wall Throttle Linkage Pivot Bushing 84 300D

I was thinking of making a mold with my 3D printer and casting one like a skate wheel. One that uses cheap skate bearings 608z instead of plastic bushings.

There are a bunch of people already doing this on Etsy and eBay so I’m going to stick with my 3D printed “ball”. No need to add another product to the mix.

Edit - oh wait, Greg do you mean the black piece is broken? The white ball is trashed in your photo. Luckily all I needed was the ball part. Maybe two new urethane parts, ball + rectangular block need to be casted. I think there is some kind of primer that helps urethane mold making compound stick to steel. Come to think of it my black rectangle piece has some cracks.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

[QUOTE=ykobayashi;4188616]oh wait, Greg do you mean the black piece is broken? The white ball is trashed in your photo. Luckily all I needed was the ball part. Maybe two new urethane parts, ball + rectangular block need to be casted. I think there is some kind of primer that helps urethane mold making compound stick to steel. Come to think of it my black rectangle piece has some cracks.


Looks like both the white ball and the black rubber are both trashed on mine. I'll do more research including checking Ebay like Tango suggested.

Yes, this fails too, it failed on my '82 240D in slow city traffic , I just zip tied it back together and it was fine until I found another one .

I've seen quite a few of these broken like this and repaired, I think the simplest repair was to clamp the two pieces in a drill vise and then drill two 5MM holes straight through both metal plates and the rubber, tap the inner (firewall side) plate to 6MM X 1.0 thread and then rustle up two cheese headed long 6MM screws ~ for anyone not a Mechanic it looked stock .

I wonder if "URO" brands is considering making these ? .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Search "1233001340" on Ebay and you will find a number of options, including a replacement for the plastic ball.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Screws sounds like a great idea but you lose the vibration isolation. Not that it really needs it tho. My plastic ball is rock solid and I still don’t notice a difference.

I think I’m going to try to fill in the cracks on the black rubber part with roof flashing urethane. Loctite PL I think it’s called.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

In one of the threads on this subject it was said peachparts sells that front rubber part with the metal shaft as a separate part and it was about $17.

If you can zip tie it back together that means someone could wrap wire around it and do the same.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes, I thought so too why I binned that one as soon as I found a good new one .

I didn't notice any vibration in the foot feed either way .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

You mean this part?

1233002325

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

Yep ;

That's it, N.L.A. .

Now that you have the correct part number begin searching EBay DE, UK and so on..
.

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Well, I bolted the two steel plates together with the rubber in between. I used 5mm bolts. These alan wrench heads had a lower profile so I chose them. There is absolutely NO noticeable vibration.

Nice fix. I like the bolts. They’re secure. I was thinking of a urethane based glue like 3m 5200 or Gorilla clear but if it fails you lose your accelerator.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

If I ever have this piece off of my other W123, I'm going to do this as preemptive fix.