Valve adjustment crank pulley access - 617 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #1 10-01-2021, 09:56 AM

It’s probably been 10 years since I’ve adjusted valves on a 617, and 3-4 at least on a 616.

I want to adjust the valves on my 300CD. I’m just not remembering how to get access to the crank pulley bolt (not interested in using PS pulley) on the car. Did I do it from underneath? Did I remove the fan and shroud? Just the shroud?

Honestly I don’t remember. I certainly don’t remember removing the fan.

For those who turn over at the crank by hand on a 617, what do you remove for access?

Thanks!

engatwork · #2 10-01-2021, 10:07 AM

27mm deep socket and 1/2" breaker bar from underneath.

JHZR2 · #3 10-01-2021, 10:10 AM

From under. Ok that makes more sense. I didn’t remember climbing under either… but I guess that’s just time…

Thanks!

tangofox007 · #4 10-01-2021, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

27mm deep socket and 1/2" breaker bar from underneath.

And put your car keys in your tool box where the socket normally resides; leave then there until the socket is returned.

Also, a ratchet wrench instead of a breaker bar will make life easier.

OM617YOTA · #5 10-01-2021, 11:33 AM

Why not use the PS pulley? It's right there, and does no damage if you're not a gorilla about it.

Shern · #6 10-01-2021, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Why not use the PS pulley? It's right there, and does no damage if you're not a gorilla about it.

The belt often slips... also, haven't figured out how not to be a gorilla in this case.

+2 for deep socket and extension from underneath. if you're careful, you can weave the tool combo up through the shroud and between the fan blades without having to remove anything.

It's a little annoying climbing down there each time, but it's a smoother way to turn the engine -especially in smaller increments when necessary(like IP timing).

JHZR2 · #7 10-01-2021, 11:58 AM

Works out fine from under.

VC coming off and on is another story. Broke my vc. New thread on that.

Sugar Bear · #8 10-01-2021, 12:18 PM

I usually managed to damage one or two injector return hoses while R&R 'ing the valve cover. Consider replacing them at the same time unless they are fresh.

When adjusting the clearance, rotate the valve to find the spot with the least clearance and adjust the clearance at that position. This prevents the adjustment from being too tight in the other positions of rotation. Slightly loose/extra clearance is better than tight.

Good luck!!!

gwizzer · #9 10-01-2021, 08:37 PM

I pull the two clips on the fan shroud and introduce a long handled ratchet, short extension,27mm deep socket between the radiator and the shroud. I protect the radiator with a kneeling cushion which also wedges the ratchet against the crank bolt.
This setup from above allows easy access to the ratchet and precise movements of the crank with a view of the timing marks and the valve adjustments.
Save your knees.

JHZR2 · #10 10-01-2021, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gwizzer

I pull the two clips on the fan shroud and introduce a long handled ratchet, short extension,27mm deep socket between the radiator and the shroud. I protect the radiator with a kneeling cushion which also wedges the ratchet against the crank bolt.
This setup from above allows easy access to the ratchet and precise movements of the crank with a view of the timing marks and the valve adjustments.
Save your knees.

I think that must have been what I did on my 617 cars before. I remember cranking from the top with a breaker bar.

My 240D the shroud is different, and I don’t think can be taken out without removing hoses. The 300cd shroud is different. I suspect it would have come out different. I’m pretty sure that must be what I did….

Thanks!!