I'm dropping an om603 into a land rover.

Is there an American source for a simple turbo manifold I can put a small holset turbo on?

Not looking for more than 150 to 170 hp. A front mount intercooler.

I don't need top end power. Just good 0 to 60 times for a big daily driver suv and to maintain 80 mph up hills on the freeway

Not that I'm aware of without modification. Your best bet is to source a stock 603 turbo manifold, most have a Garret T4 mounting base and either use a Garret turbo or something compatible to mount to that base. Alternatively, you may be able to make an adapter to convert the stock turbo mount to something suitable for a Holset. The stock MB Garret turbos are more than adequate for the power you are looking to achieve, may not be worth the hassle for a conversion unless you are looking to really boost up the power beyond say 250hp.

If you are really interested in big power, check out the Fins and their mods to these engines, they are pushing north of 400hp, albeit with extensively modifies injection pumps, turbos and IC's, all custom though.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 160k mi (Benzrokee)

In the now distant past persons that favored Hod Rods use to make intake and exhaust headers out of steel tubing.

Part of the issue with alternate parts on Diesel Cars is a small number of them were produced and sold in the US compared to the gasoline engine cars. That means the market for such parts would be tiny.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

No need for 250 hp. I just want good off idle low end torque without running out of umph, like the rover v8 does, keeping up with hwy speeds. We are in the south east, we don't have many steep grades in our area.

You shouldn't have any issues running a stock om603 turbo for what you are trying to achieve. That will provide plenty of torque to get you going. Also consider the gearing in the land Rover, notvsure what it is but they are likely short. My 603 300TD, has no issues pulling a load quickly and that is with I believe a 3.07 rear. I would imagine that you are running a more aggressive gear set, north of 3.73, so your acceleration should be good.

The G wagons, I believe G300D came with naturally aspirated 603s, they were slow, a turbo version would have been much better, but torque was not an issue.

What are you putting this into? Series 2, 3, 90, 110?

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 160k mi (Benzrokee)

Discovery 2. Factory 3.54 gears. I plan on 4.11 or 4.30. Still undecided. I'll likely losing the computer controlled traction control and abs systems so lsd differentials and cdl lock will also be installed to keep her an on road and off road capable vehicle.

Also I'm dumb, the 300d I'm getting is a 602, not a 603. I'm very green on mercs.

The plan is a front mount intercooler. The head gasket is leaking so while the head is off I'll put a vac controlled waste gate on her. Egr block off.

Tweak the ip until the egts begins to climb/smoke then bring her back in.

I've always liked the merc diesels but have been using tdi vw diesels for years now. Have one going into an 87 4 runner as we speak.

The rover belongs to the little lady. This is her project that I work on and she drives.

My only issue now is oil pan mods. There are a few guys modding 603/606 and 617 plans to clear yota and jeep front diffs.

The rover diff is passanger (usa) dropped like a land cruiser or 4runner/pick up pre 1996.

I have her rover lifted 3 inches so far. I can't lift it any more as she already has issues getting into and out of the rig. Building sliders with steps is apparently on my honey do list now.

Enough lift will clear any front diff but I need other options. .

If fit isuzu 4bd1t and 2t motors into land cruisers where I simply notched their pans. The difference is that they were rear sump so I had plenty to cut off. I never had more than a 4 inch lift on those rigs.

Sounds like a fun project, you've obviously been down this path before so you know what is involved. How are you mating the engine to trans? Keeping the MB trans or Disco? This could impact your engine placement, and if tucked further back behind the axle may alleviate some of the diff clearance issues. Also research the MB transmissions, if auto, note that the gearing in these units may not be favorable with the gear sets you are considering, most of these units were built for vehicles with 2.88-3.08 gearing, so OD is not as tall either. My Jeep uses the OM642 with 722.6 5-speed auto and 3.73 gears, great for acceleration but spins too high at highway speeds, I'm thinking of stepping down to a 3.07 to cure that, as you mentioned earlier, living in the southeast, hardly anything that would need more gearing...it's speed bump country down here in Florida.

602 pans I'm not familiar with, but being shorter than a 603 may work to your benefit. If you can weld aluminum, I'm sure you could customize it to fit. There are plenty of outfits in the UK that have been doing these conversions into all sorts of LRovers and are a wealth of information and even parts as it is a pretty strong community of enthusiasts.

Keep us posted on how it goes, I'm sure many forum members would like to learn from your experience. I've only once helped a friend install a 617 into a Jeep CJ years ago, and am always interested in new opportunities

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 160k mi (Benzrokee)

Doomsday diesel makes an adapter to fit any om61x or om60x look like that of a 4.0 rover motor. So therefore any of the 3.9 to 4.6 powered rovers from discos to defenders to rovers can be matched to the merc diesels.

He has way more om617 options including pans, manifolds, turbos and remote oil filters. The 617 is just gobs more common but for me it is too low on power and near 200 lbs heavier than the 602 or 603 options. Weight would not be an issue for say a land cruiser as the 2f is already some 600 some odd lbs. In a rover built for an all aluminum v8 with aluminum heads with built bumpers, adding all that extras weight isn't ideal.

I will use compushift to dial in my transmission. The weak v8 and peppy 602 are close enough in power bands where the torque converter should be serviceable.

My better half's disco 2 is a 99, no sun roof model. Pushing 230k miles with means it's lasted an average 170k longer than most other disco 2s. I have purchased an 86k 2003 disco for the beefier zf4hp24 transmission to handle the added diesel torque. The current zf4hp22 may be ok with the om602 power levels under 300 ft lbs of torque but I'm not chancing it.

With the isuzu swaps, both times I wished I had chosen heavier duty transmissions. Live and learn. Granted none of my tdi motors or these merc diesels have the torque pulse and stroke of the 4bd motors which eat bearings and soft metals for lunch.

I would have preferred to use one of my spare 2.0 BHW tdi motors for this conversion but no tdi to rover adapters exist. At 450 lbs my BHW came factory in a 3500 lbs wagon.

With nothing but a tune she makes 170hp and 300 ft lbs of torque at 2000 rpms.

She is happy cruising at 3000 to 3200 rpms all day but better fuel economy 2400 to 2800

My only issue so far with stage 2 tuned BHW motors is keeping them from eating clutches, even heavy duty clutches thanks the the insanely steep torque rise. From 4 cylinder diesel fuel economy to 5.7 v8 pin you back torque. Sadly that torque on a stock turbo and engine only lasts 500 or so rpm.

Then you're back to your sleepy tdi ride.

The merc sounds more like a tractor which is what the little lady wants.

OM 602 or 603 NA have no piston crown cooling and no oil filter housing with connection for hoses for motor oil cooler.

The donor for this swap is a 1991 300d which is the 2.5 turbo om602.

I am and idiot and mistook this as an om603 turbo motor with the awful usa manifold.