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#1
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Pitman Arm Won't Come Off
(2nd try posting)
I'm changing the steering box on my '83 300D and I've already broken four pullers trying to get the Pitman arm off the old steering box. Any ideas?
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#2
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Quote:
I don't usually get past step 4 on the majority of the boxes I recondition, but there's always a few stubborn ones.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] |
#3
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Pitmans are frequently a hassle. Does the beating damage seals or bearings? I ask because the box on the truck needs to come out but not be rebuilt before reinstall.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#4
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What type of puller? Are you using a special "Pitman Arm Puller"? I have 2 different sized ones and use them for more than just Pitman arms. I recall the smaller one is from Harbor Freight and has even fit some ball-joints or tie rod ends (forget) in my various vehicles. I recall the larger one was a name brand and would probably fit my M-B. I have removed 2 steering gears, but recall leaving the Pitman arms on. Heating with a torch usually helps and if you pull it fast the heat may not have time to conduct up the shaft to burn the output seal rubber, though likely you would change that anyway. Did you spray penetrating oil a few days before trying? Hammering the arm as you load it seems to help, probably by hyrdo-shocking the penetrating oil to help flush rust loose.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#5
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This thread has a pick of the original Mercedes Tool. It also shows the OTC one that is similar. The OTC took comes in 2 sizes and the smaller one can also be used to separate the lower front Ball Joint. The OTC OT 8149 is the smaller one and the OTC8150 is the larger one. https://www.benzworld.org/threads/pulling-the-pitman-arm.1654399/ I go by 300Dman on the benzworld.org forum. One of the posts has the dimensions for the 8149. https://www.benzworld.org/threads/lower-ball-joint-separator-for-w123.1669576/ I think the OTC Tool is longer then the Mercedes one. It could be there is not enough room for it or you my need a shorter Bolt.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 11-15-2021 at 06:48 PM. |
#6
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Story concerning heat. I had put a gear puller on a gear and put considerable tension on it with no movement. I heated the gear with a propane torch.
I turned the torch off and walked away to do something else and there was a pop sound. When I came back the gear was off of the shaft and lying on the floor. Heat can work wonders. It also facilitates the wicking in of penetrating oil if you don't get the part too hot to evaporate it fast.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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Thanks all.
The first three pullers were a Harbor Freight 2-jaw puller set. The last one is similar to the one linked below: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/performance-tool/tools---equipment/mechanics-tools/pullers/pitman-arm-pullers/692e9db8fec4/performance-tool-pittman-arm-puller/pfm0/w142/v/a/3215/automotive-car-1981-chevrolet-corvette?q=pitman+arm+puller&pos=0 I've plasticaly deformed it, but it isn't all the way broken yet. I'll try again tonight with the hammer and more penetrating oil. I'll ask around some people I know for a conical puller if I can't get it with the current one.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#8
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
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@Diesel911, I've used mostly rented pullers but have a few picked up at random places. Pitman arms have been more of a hassle than say tie rods which only need a hit or 2 on the knuckle.
Pitmans are similar being press fit and tightened down. Beating on them would put sideways pressure on the shaft and seals. I'll look for a decent puller and have a good heat source before tackling the next one if that is what works.
__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#10
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
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I tried beating with a 2 lb hammer. No joy. I put some Aerokroil on it last night and again today before work. I may try again tonight or wait until the weekend.
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#12
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Quote:
Hit the pitman arm where the numbers are stamped on it. It shouldn't take more than a few blows.
__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] |
#13
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All I have is the puller shown in post 7, in 2 different sizes. I might need to buy the conical type puller, though might not be able to still whack it with that on. I would try, loading the puller, then propane (or MAPP) torch on the Pitman arm, whack with big hammer, try to tighten more, keep repeating. If you can get it red-hot, it should break free.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#14
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I took the steering box out with the pitman arm still attached. Tomorrow I get to take it outside and use the propane torch I just bought. I'll also be able to get a much better swing at it with the hammer than I did with it in the car. I was so happy to get the box out I made a quick and dirty Youtube video about it:
https://youtu.be/PEHXs6B7a3w
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#15
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I followed Martureo's eight steps. It finally came off after about 45 minutes of heating and beating. Thanks to all for your suggestions.
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
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