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  #1  
Old 11-22-2021, 03:53 PM
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Freeze plug behind injection pump

Hi,

I just noticed a nice pool of anti freeze on my floor this morning. Oozing from the freeze plug behind the injection pump on my 82 300SD.

I bought the plugs at Pelican. MB OEM.

I’m looking at the plug and it looks like I’ll need to take out my oil filter housing and pump to get at it. It’s the forward most one but I figure it’ll be easy to replace the rear one while I’m on it. Also the hard to access IP bolt is rounded on my SD so I’ll need a to get the filter out to access it. The most I’ve done down there is replace cooler lines and tighten up my filter mount bolts. So I’m kinda going into unknown territory

Is it possible to pound that plug in with the pump in place? I’ve never installed a freeze plug before so I have no idea how tough it is to pound in.

I’ve got all my baskets ready to go if I need to clear the IP out of the way. Just checking to see if there is some super clever way to push in that plug without all the disassembly and retiming fuss. Otherwise I know what I’m doing this thanksgiving.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
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  #2  
Old 11-22-2021, 06:06 PM
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I don't know the answer to your question; but, if anything requires levering against the IP don't do it. With any freeze plus install I put them in the freezer overnight and don't remove it until the last second possible before install. The freezer reduces the OD of the plug slightly and helps the install a small amount. If the block surface is pitted where it seals the plug, clean it well and sparingly use a sealer like Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket.

Good luck!!!
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  #3  
Old 11-22-2021, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugar Bear View Post
I don't know the answer to your question; but, if anything requires levering against the IP don't do it.
Good luck!!!
Thanks! I am just dumb and lazy enough to try prying against the IP.

I will disassemble properly. It doesn’t look that bad. Injector lines, oil cooler lines, oil filter, injector pump out. That will give me access to both front and back.

I’ve collected up a bunch of special tools and the metallized oil filter gasket for the job over the years. I’ve been putting it off for years. My IP needs a new gasket and the rounded off bolt needs to come out. I have some ground down S wrenches, rounded nut extractor sockets, sawed down Allen keys and a home brew flare nut wrench all ready to go. I’ve been planning this repair for years. The freeze plug just pushed it up front and center.
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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
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  #4  
Old 11-23-2021, 12:10 AM
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If one freeze leaks, the others are not far behind. Basically the antifreeze was not changed frequently enough.
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  #5  
Old 11-23-2021, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ykobayashi View Post
Thanks! I am just dumb and lazy enough to try prying against the IP.

I will disassemble properly. It doesn’t look that bad. Injector lines, oil cooler lines, oil filter, injector pump out. That will give me access to both front and back.

I’ve collected up a bunch of special tools and the metallized oil filter gasket for the job over the years. I’ve been putting it off for years. My IP needs a new gasket and the rounded off bolt needs to come out. I have some ground down S wrenches, rounded nut extractor sockets, sawed down Allen keys and a home brew flare nut wrench all ready to go. I’ve been planning this repair for years. The freeze plug just pushed it up front and center.
I suspect there is some generic Youtube vids on removing and installing freeze plugs. Of course, make sure the holes are clean and not rusted on the edges (do the best you can).

I like to use the old style brown thick permatex in a tube on freeze plugs just like dear old Dad used.
That because it is extremely reliable for that use. You can use the hardening or non-hardening for that. I prefer the hardening permatex on freeze plugs.
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  #6  
Old 11-23-2021, 01:05 AM
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There are special tools that are supposed to allow you to install a freeze plug where you cannot get directly at it. I have never owned one and none of the places I worked at had any so I have never use one to say how well they work.
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  #7  
Old 11-23-2021, 01:11 AM
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This was a special case. There was a lage forklift that had the freeze plug leak right at the rear of the block and 3/4ths of it was covered by a bell housing. I tried to grind the bell housing but it was hard as glass cast iron.

I drained the coolant out and degreased it with Brake cleaner and filled it up with the slow curing JB-weld Epoxy. I let that cure well overnight and, in the morning, put in the coolant and it was ready to go and gave no more issues.

That could work as a temp fix if you need the Car as a daily driver till you can plan time to fix it. The slow curing JB-weld can take the heat but you need to let it cure as per the instructions and the surface has to be a free of rust and especially oil or grease.
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Old 11-23-2021, 09:46 AM
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Thanks for the tips. I’m going for the permanent fix. I’ve gathered up all my tools on the bench and I’m taking down the injection pump plumbing. I’ll have all this stuff out in a few hours. I’ve been meaning to change the gaskets in the oil filter and pump for years. They’ve been in a ziplock taped to my shop wall a long time.

Yeah I bought all five plugs. I suspect the others are decaying too. I’ll do the one behind the oil filter while I’m in there. Curious to see the condition of the head in there. Hope it hasn’t turned to Swiss cheese.
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82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
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  #9  
Old 11-23-2021, 10:00 AM
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Keep your Shop-Vac handy. You will be using it. Don't use compressed air to blow away rust and corrosion as it will only serve to spread the crud into the cooling system.
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  #10  
Old 11-23-2021, 11:48 AM
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This is the tool I’ve used several times for hard to reach plugs. It works very well to drive them in. The removable toll is just barely ok. It works but not super well.

Michael

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XSGKYO/
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  #11  
Old 11-23-2021, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 250 Coupe View Post
This is the tool I’ve used several times for hard to reach plugs. It works very well to drive them in. The removable toll is just barely ok. It works but not super well.

Michael

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XSGKYO/
Thanks for the feed back. I was a mechanic for 18 years and have never known anyone to use a similar tool so I never had any idea if they worked or not.
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Old 11-23-2021, 04:39 PM
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It does work. It's not a miracle as it's a pain to find just the right angle but it will take a task that requires removing a bunch of stuff, up to and maybe including the engine itself and turn it into a fussy afternoon but it's done kind of task.

I've used it on the plug between the starter and motor mount on a '97 Crown Vic and twice on the 390 in the F250. Both would have been almost undoable without the tool.

Michael
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  #13  
Old 11-24-2021, 08:55 AM
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Oh no Michael. Now you have me rethinking my whole job.

Gauging from the space between the pump and the head do you think it’ll work on my OM617?
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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
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  #14  
Old 11-24-2021, 09:15 AM
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Let me take a look at the boy’s car to see where the plugs are. It’ll be Thursday of Friday before I can do it in daylight.

Michael
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  #15  
Old 11-24-2021, 11:17 AM
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Thanks.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
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