98 Mercedes E300 TD won't start - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SRHeer · #16 01-13-2022, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Hendy

Did you change your K40 relay?

A bad K40 caused a no start on my 99 diesel and my 97 E420.

Here is the adapter

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275038278737?hash=item40098f1451:g:4ZoAAOSwdkphnKEK

thanks for the link! - and thanks for heads up on K40 relay! As long as I drive everyday it's starting great now even in very cold temps but if I leave sit then it can be problematic to start which implicates air leaking into fuel system - thanks ENGATWORK - I ordered fuel lines with new 0-rings and will change out the one behind the shutoff valve

SRHeer · #17 01-13-2022, 12:43 PM

Adaptor plug ordered -

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Extension-Diagnostic-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07MCTNSBM/ref=sr_1_8?crid=J5BBMUS3EBMG&keywords=38+pin+adapter+mercedes&qid=1642076435&sprefix=38+pin+adapetr+mercedes%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-8

engatwork · #18 01-13-2022, 05:11 PM

When you remove the 10mm fastener to the top left of the spin on filter housing you will remove a small screen too. Replace oring on it too.

SRHeer · #19 01-14-2022, 07:51 PM

Haven't changed fuel lines and O-rings yet but did drop drivers kick panel down to look for possible OBDII missing plug - yes it was there had been pushed out of its socket on kick panel - hooked it up to BlueDriver and after manually typing in VIN info for Mercedes it read two codes P1369 and P0400 which cleared - now check eng light is off - but temporary service monkey wrench warning popped up - so I pressed the 0 button on left twice with ign on and then off and hold button and then ign on and wait - now check eng and service lighting reminders are off - thanks!

SRHeer · #20 01-15-2022, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

If you are sucking air into the line from the heater mounted on the side of the engine to the housing for the spin on filter then you have air in the system. Replace all of the plastic hoses and o-rings as applicable. You will need to remove the intake manifold to do it. Also don't forget the oring behind the shut off valve. Once all these are replaced get back with us and we'll go through the start up procedure.

Is it good practice to dip or coat all seals with ATF fluid and or diesel before installing 0 rings and fuel lines?

wallbenz · #21 01-15-2022, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

Save your money and don't worry about fuel pressure gauge.

You want to remove the plastic cover on top (if you have not already) of engine and loosen the 14mm fuel lines at the injectors. Do you see fuel drip out when you loosen it? Does fuel come out while cranking over engine. It won't start until you get fuel out and it typically starts fueling the injector closest to the fire wall first. If no fuel then I'd start by changing all fuel lines and o-rings around the injection pump/spin on filter. Don't forget to check spin on filter housing pre-filter. I've got one in the shop now that is leaking like a sieve with most of it coming from delivery valves. Will be changing those seals along with all plastic hoses and o-rings as applicable.

If no rust I'm serious about seeing if you want to sell

.

Engatwork- PM me if you are seriously looking for nice e300td

wall

SRHeer · #22 04-11-2022, 11:18 PM

replaced all fuel lines with new - turned ignition on - pressurized fuel into impute with fuel pump - would not start - made sure main fuel falter was full - still no start - noticing lots of air in lines - tightened bolt holding fuel filter with 19mm wrench - wanted to start and air pockets decreased - tightened fuel filter housing bolt even more really hard or tight - now it starts and runs but sputters at time -also now after replacing O-ring behind fuel shut off valve it runs and revs for a bit after turning key off - also I notice now while running air bubbles are going from fuel shutoff valve up to fuel filter but if not mistaken fuel flow is supposed to be going from filter to pump at this point - I have ordered a fuel shutoff valve and will be getting its O-Ring from Mercedes Benz dealer to make sure I get the correct one - I will remove and replace fuel shut off valve - and get back - in doing so do you know if one can replace it without taking the intake manifold off - otherwise I'll need to order another intake manifold gasket

jay_bob · #23 04-12-2022, 07:49 AM

Don’t overlook the crank position sensor, back when I had a 1998 E300 mine started failing intermittently and presented as a no-start condition. Fault code did not come through OBDII, had to be scanned with Xentry to get the code for crank sensor failure.

Remember the OBDII implementation on these cars is the very first generation of OBDII and MB only put the bare minimum list of faults that affect emissions through the OBDII.

The thread that contains my story on this, started out thinking it was CAN bus trouble but finally found the problem with the crank angle sensor.

W210 CAN bus issues

83w126 · #24 04-14-2022, 01:25 PM

My 98 E300D had an OBD port, but it wouldn't tell you much.

engatwork · #25 04-14-2022, 06:42 PM

It is the port in the fuse box under the hood that tells you some stuff but it won't tell you why you have a no start situation.

jay_bob · #26 04-16-2022, 08:22 AM

Well it does tell you some things, but you need Xentry with the HHT Emulator software program to read the codes.

When my W210 failed it did throw a code for crank position sensor failure. This code was not visible through the OBDII port with a normal reader.

Also the HHT emulator will go down the DAS tree and make sure everything is talking to each other and the happy dance can commence. I believe if you have a DAS failure on these the starter will still spin but you won't get fuel.

OP where are you located, you don't have to get specific, nearest major city and state will let us know if there's a forum member near you with a Xentry that can help you out.

Swaggin_Wagon · #27 04-16-2022, 09:58 AM

I have found the best way to isolate fuel/air leaks is simply disconnect the fuel lines as close to the lift pump as possible and run the engine on a small 2L soda bottle, or a proper aux fuel tank full of diesel purge. Diesel purge isn't required but it's a good idea to run it through your system anyways if you have problems. You can also use ATF, as long as it is not synthetic. If you do this and your engine runs fine you may have a blockage on your way to the tank. If you are able to isolate certain components (like the leaky heater you mentioned) and it runs fine, that will also indicate where the problem is. If you're running good air-free fuel straight to the pump and your problems don't go away, you have more to worry about. Start by checking your timing, as I have seen timing chains stretch so bad that the timing is retarded enough to cause hard or no-starts in the cold, even though you will have good fuel flow when you crack your injector hardlines. I apologize if what I'm saying is inaccurate or incompatible with your vehicle, as I have never worked one one before. This is rather a general procedure that I use.

treetops · #28 05-04-2022, 09:47 PM

Curious to know how this panned out.

If you were able to replace the plastic lines without taking the manifold off your a way more nimble than me. I'd say yes you can get the SOV off too. Its 2 torx bolts and comes off rather easily.

jay_bob · #29 05-05-2022, 06:22 AM

Removing the washer reservoir on the 98/99s gives pretty good access to the injector pump and fuel hoses if you don't want to pull the manifold. Yes you can change out the valve from that angle but difficult to get to some of the other things. Would not want to do DVs like that though.

Don't understand the difficulty pulling the IM on an OM606 turbo engine. A dozen or so Torx bolts up top and the connection under the bottom to the intercooler pipe and the EGR line and it's done. Try doing OM642 manifolds, almost everything on top (including the turbo and fuel lines) has to come off first...the inline 6 is such a breeze to work on in comparison to a V-6.

SRHeer · #30 05-26-2022, 08:21 PM

Update - replaced several items - fuel tank screen or strainer - fuel SOV with O-ring - all plastic fuel lines in eng bay with associated MB O-rings on each end - even fuel filter housing as original looked warn where O-rings sat

Now all this did help eng start better but it ran a tittle rough at idle and didn't have the normal punch during acceleration - I then noted stream of many little air bubbles coming from pump in lines towards fuel filter - this led me to think air was getting into fuel system originating at pump.

So I carefully changed out all the delivery valve seals with new Viton O-rings from McMaster Car and their copper crush washers. Eliminating all air getting into fuel system cured no start - hard start - somewhat rough idle and anemic performance - so now it starts and runs and acts like a turbo diesel should!

In all my dealings with MB and VW diesels I think air in the fuel system is major culprit for diesel engine run problems