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  #1  
Old 02-22-2022, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetreemechan View Post
I just bought them last month. It was weird that one was uro and the other was corteco, but they were perfect fit and both seemed available at several sources.
Perhaps for your car, but not for mine.

Even if, I don’t trust either of those brands and for the price, I’d much rather rebuild my own with known quantities/qualities.
The hiccups I encountered were unfortunate
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  #2  
Old 02-23-2022, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shern View Post
Perhaps for your car, but not for mine.

Even if, I don’t trust either of those brands and for the price, I’d much rather rebuild my own with known quantities/qualities.
The hiccups I encountered were unfortunate
Ok.
I am putting them on a 240d manual. For those interested in the hose type debate, the cohline has brand specific markings on it, but the URO rubber parts are stamped as power steering hose.
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2022, 11:32 AM
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Never thought of that. I believe people have used hydraulic line here directly on the barbs.

You can always hit a AC shop and have them built with AC hose and crimps.

I used #12 Goodyear Galaxy 5/8”.
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  #4  
Old 02-22-2022, 11:43 AM
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I recall you using #12 size ferrules as well? There was a post some months back where BillGrissom suggested using #10 ferrules for a tighter fit. I wasn’t clear if that was for #12 “reduced” barrier hose or if that’s even a thing.
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  #5  
Old 02-24-2022, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shern View Post
... BillGrissom suggested using #10 ferrules ... for #12 reduced barrier hose ...
Yes, the #10 std ferrules fit perfectly on the #12 reduced barrier AC hose I had. I had done similar for the AC suction hoses since thinner hose is always nicer to route and less engine bay clutter. Barrier means it has a special liner, which might be Viton. That is to reduce leakage when they changed to R-134A, but serves well for other refrigerants. Might also better resist PAG oil. So, seems better for hot engine oil too. Those without a ferrule crimper might use proper sized Oeticker stepless ear clamps (ebay) or Breeze smooth worm clamps. Download an AC hose catalog to find sizes. Isn't the web great for such? Hope Shern got my e-mail reply since P-P always shows nothing in the "Sent" folder, though people later say they received it.
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Old 02-22-2022, 12:23 PM
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I used 12. It depends if you use reduced barrier or barrier I think. One hose has a bigger outer diameter. I used the fat stuff because it was what I used on my AC.

The AC shop will handle all this for you. Use their chosen hose and ferrule. The 12 hose slips on loose but it crimps tightly to the barb. As Rollguy has said in his posts pay attention to the natural curve of the hose. I believe I indexed my hoses to match the arch of the bend in the rubber.
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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles
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  #7  
Old 02-22-2022, 09:50 PM
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Sorry one was cohline and I bought it here, and the uro came off fleabay.
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2022, 12:42 PM
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That’s really funny. I just checked Pelican and for my SD they have both the upper and lower cohline. What I’ve been experiencing over the years is parts seem to disappear and reappear.

In 2018 I looked for my 300D and they had a brand called Trucktec and it got really bad reviews. For instance people complained they seeped oil after a year. So I decided to build my own.

The only advantage I can see in building my own now given the availability on Pelican is price. For the price of the upper and lower hoses on my 300SD $190+$120 = $310 I can get a crimper ($150) hose ($20) and ferrules ($15). And I get to keep the crimper for AC lines, tranny cooler lines, power steering return lines, etc.

I kind of did that backwards. I completely rebuilt AC lines in two cars. A Sanden conversion required custom lines. A parallel flow condenser conversion required custom lines. Then I did tranny cooler lines. Air lines for my garage. And then I just happened to own the crimper and a pile of #12 barrier hose scraps so I built my own oil cooler lines.

It’s worked out. What I’ve learned from these cooler hose threads is there are a multitude of ways to skin this cat.

Those Cohline lines weren’t there a few years ago. There must have been a dry spell. I noticed one says Genuine Mercedes Benz part too.

You can get Cohline 15mm hose from Belmetric so it’s likely good stuff.
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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles
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  #9  
Old 02-23-2022, 01:04 PM
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When I've looked, I was only able to find one of the lower hoses (remember, some 240D's have an odd oil cooler with both ports at the bottom). Re: Trucktec reviews, I was mostly put off purchasing.
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  #10  
Old 02-23-2022, 09:50 PM
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I have that odd cooler with both on the bottom. I believe what I bought matches what I took off, but to be honest, its all in the air right now....literally.
It will be another week before I get around to lowering it in the bay and trying to attach everything, but it appears correct.
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1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660
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  #11  
Old 02-23-2022, 09:53 PM
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sorry linked pic of oil cooler lines in the air didn't post.
Attached Thumbnails
Oil cooler line hose/crimp type-img_2781.jpg  
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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2022, 09:58 PM
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Nice.
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82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles
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  #13  
Old 02-24-2022, 12:25 PM
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Thank you for all the help guys.

I’ll post the finished lines when I get them
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  #14  
Old 03-01-2022, 01:59 AM
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Oh boy.

That was way more complicated than it needed to be.
A few notes from the fray:







#12 galaxy, standard barrier, with #12 standard crimps.
Didn’t like the reduced barrier hose. It was totally adequate but the #12 standard felt like you could use it to garrote Superman.

#12 (5/8 ID) is a loose fit. Even after crimping, I could twist the ends around with a bit of effort. A few more rides through the crimper took most of that away but it still bothers me a bit. Ditto for 12 reduced with 10 standard ferrules -though 10 ferrules need to be drilled out a little to clear the barb.

#10 hose works but I was concerned stepping from 16mm to 13mm was too big of a jump.
Here’s the other thing: a number 10 die in the crimper will crush the barb like a soda can. Had to braze a new barb onto one of the lines.

All up, $27. Not bad, assuming you can find someone with a crimper. I was fortunate enough to find an AC shop that was willing to help me out. I guess the real test will be the nine hour drive I have in the morning.

Thank you all for participating.
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