Sounds like your plan is more than worth a try. Since you'll be using a Threadlocker you could probably stop at 60 ft/lb if the torquing process doesn't feel correct. What is the bolt diameter and depth of the good threads?

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

The thread locker/JB weld attempt did not work. It is basically fully stripped out now. I am getting ready to get this stripped belt tensioner bolt fixed on the 99 606 of my fathers. My current plan is to repair it with the cover in place with a time sert. These things are expense and the kit for this is $258. bolt is M18x1.5 btw. Of course that includes 5 inserts. I am planning on having to possibly remove the radiator and condenser. Doing that the timing chain is right behind the hole so would have to mark the depth on the drill bit so I know how far I can go.


Pricing a new cover, its around $193 for a new cover from various MB parts dealers online. Should I attempt to repair the threads or just bite the bullet and start pulling the front of the engine apart? I assume water pump, vacuum pump, pulley, alternator bracket, ps pump and bracket, crank pulley? What else would have to come off. Is it removable without pulling the head and oil pan?

I can't answer your question specifically about the engine you are working on. Calculate the time difference between doing the timesert and the cover replacement to help make your decision. The new cover will be a better repair and perhaps you can freshen up other items in that process. A helicoil kit would cost a lot less but isn't quite as good IMO.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Not meaning to hijack your thread, but I just searched and found this becuase of my issue. Perhaps you can help me. I noticed the shaft of my tensioner is backing out. So the "bolt" is gone. I'm assuming after reading your post that this could actually have broken instead of just vibrated out.

Is this a common problem that I am also looking at new parts instead of just a replacement bolt?

This sure looks like a lot of work. even removing the radiator if I have to do drilling?

Thanks, I am hoping your newfound experience of your situation can help me.

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79 240D 123.123 daily-driver
03 F250 7.3 PS SD CC (lightly modded)
82 CE 'vette (for sale)
73 dart 318, 73 charger w/'68 383 (both for sale)

Well the problem is fixed. I removed the radiator, reclaimed the R134 and removed the ac condenser which gave me plenty of roof to work. I removed the valve cover so I could see what was going on down by the bolt hole. I packed wheel bearing grease in the back of the hole up against the timing change to catch any metal shavings. I then drilled out the hole which did not take much drilling really. After that did the counter bore on the hole, tapped it. After all this, I used my oil extractor to suck out the wheel bearing grease from the hole and observed from above that it got it all. Installed the time sert, then installed the tensioner to full torque. That hole is stronger now than it was from the factory. Tomorrow will finish putting the car back together. WAY easier and less time involved than removing and replacing the timing cover.

What did you reclaim with; I know I have nothing to do that with.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My Robinair AC Machine