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  #1  
Old 09-14-2022, 01:06 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 98
Alignment in Portland OR

I am not sure this belongs in this forum area, but does anyone look at the regional posts?
Since the Line Up shop closed a couple years ago, have any Portland area members found a good replacement? It's not something you use every day, but when your W123 needs it, it needs it.
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  #2  
Old 09-15-2022, 12:22 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,147
Front end alignment? The adjustments are fairly obvious, so any shop should be able to do it. Indeed, you can do it yourself (youtubes). The main thing is setting toe-in (steering tie-rods). Camber (lower control arm pivot bolts) is somewhat a personal choice and few shops would fool with caster (rear guide rod).
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
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  #3  
Old 09-17-2022, 09:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 98
Thanks for the encouragement. I gave it a shot. It went pretty well for a first try. I had replaced the upper control arms,lower ball joints,steering idler bushings,tie rod ends,and center tie rod. I have factory manuals for torque spec's.
I googled the how to. I thought the *** **** video using a Mini was the best. I got the settings the same way. There is a 2019 Pelican post about the spreader bar and where to get one. It's coming. Also on Pelican from 2004 is how to make a centering screw for the steering box. I think it will work instead of spending $50 to $80 on a new one.
What do you use as slip plates? I went 40' back and forth on the driveway to relax the suspension after lifting the front end to adjust. I think the center changed a bit each time,so I am a slight bit off on the steering wheel. I will fine tune when the spreader comes and I make the centering screw.
How is camber somewhat of a personal choice? There is half a degree between min and max. 0 degrees is very close to the middle. I don't drive the 1985 300D like a sports car.
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