Ok, rather than piggyback on another oil cooler hose thread, I think it is best to start another one.

If you followed my posts on the other thread you know I am in the middle of replacing bad oil cooler hoses by using the method of cutting off the hose crimps, replacing the hoses, then securing them with double hose clamps and safety wire..

Last night I was having trouble removing the crimps and the hose from the barbs as after 40 years they were essentially "rubber welded" together.

Anyway, tonight I managed to get both the lower (by the motor mount) crimps off and the rubber hose off the barbs. Now where I am at is attacking the crimps at the oil cooler. I have discovered there is precious little room to use a Dremel tool and grinding wheel on the top hose and nearly impossible on the bottom.

I'm thinking it would go a lot easier if I removed the oil cooler and then cut the crimps off. So, my question is.....how hard is it to remove the oil cooler? It looks like it is just a couple of clamps and screws. Thoughts??

Thanks!

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

If speaking of your 300D, why wouldn't you just unscrew the cooler hose fittings and leave the cooler in place? The cooler is attached to the side of the radiator with an upper and lower "finger clamp", each with a clamping bolt. If you detach some clamps, I think you could drop the ends of the cooler hoses down enough to fool with the ends below the radiator. I recall using a hacksaw to cut off the ferrules at the fitting, but I had the hoses out and in a bench vise. To remove the hose assembly, I think you need to support the engine w/ a jack and remove the L motor bracket to work them out, though perhaps with the radiator out you might pull them out the front.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Once I cut off the crimps at the motor mount end of the hoses and remove the hoses off the barbs, I was able to simply unbolt the cooler from the radiator, and then cut and remove the hose crimps at the cooler fittings easily on my workbench. The main reasons I did not remove the hose fittings at the oil filter and the cooler are 1. The fittings are not leaking in any way. 2. They have been in place for almost 40 years and I do not want to risk destroying the threads on the cooler or the filter housing, and 3. I did not want to deal with the huge PITA is would be to remove the whole hose assembly and then try to thread it back in place.

Right now the old hose sections are completely off the car and the cooler. Next is to clean everything up, attach the new hoses and clamps to the cooler, install the cooler, attach the hoses and clamps to the barbs by the motor mount, install the Power steering pump, top off the oil and check for leaks!

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

Because sometimes the steel Oil Cooler Hose nut can corrode onto the aluminum oil cooler nipple and when you unscrew it strips off the threads.

The repair creates a lot more work for you and takes more skill and you need to remove the oil cooler.

The collars need to be cut as close as you can to being in line with the hose direction.

See the attached picture

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

AMEN BROTHER.......could not have said it better myself. That is the whole reason behind me NOT taking the hose barbs off the cooler!

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

I suggest cutting the new upper hose 1" longer to better keep it clear of that evil power steering belt. If I recall, the original hose is 14"L.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Ok, she is done and leak free.


Used Belmetric 15mm ID hose and it fit the barbs like a glove. Double hose clamped the hose ends (a total of 8 clamps) with 16-27mm range clamps. I also went a bit anal and safety wired/lock wired each hose clamp as well. Taking sound advice I cut the hoses about 1.5 inches longer than the originals to mitigate the power steering pulley issue if the motor mounts let go.

Total cost for the whole repair was under $100, and I feel a lot better now that the original 40 year old hoses are replaced.

Glenn

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)