After replacing EVERYTHING on the front suspension I have noticed that when hitting potholes especially with steering angle, there is still a slop felt through the steering wheel.

The same kind of slop or pop you get with blown tierod ends. Could this be in the steering box? I assume I have moved to the next weakest link in play after renewing the entire front suspension.

I have not done the front bearings but I did clean and repack them. Everything was torqued to Mercedes Factory Manual Spec.


For reference:
New -

tie rods
drag link
steering shock
shocks/mounts
upper control arms
lower control arm bushings/brake control rod mounts
Spindle Ball Joints

Brake control rod joints/pads
Dog Bone Bushings
Swaybar bushings/hardware
Motor Mounts
Trans mount
Engine Shocks
Rear shocks

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190D SOLD
2.5 non turbo
5 speed manual transmission
Build date: December 1985
W211 E320 CDI
W126 350SDL
X204 GLK 250 Sans Bluetec

You don't mention what car this was done to.
In any event, did you do final torque on the suspension fully loaded? The control arms in particular usually require setting torque fully loaded at ride height.
Wheel bearings should be checked again after run in especially after repacking. Could be loose now that excess grease has been pushed out.

Lastly, could be the steering box has some slop. Verify the other things first, and after alignment if the problem persists. Look at steering box adjustment.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

DOH! I forgot to mention, w126 350SDL


Everything torqued under load as per manual with a proper torque wrench.
Alignment done at Mercedes and issue persists (though it's very minor).


Will recheck bearings, good point on that. I normally hand tighten then back off just a tad with wheel spinning freely and no side slop when shaking by hand at 10/3

__________________
190D SOLD
2.5 non turbo
5 speed manual transmission
Build date: December 1985
W211 E320 CDI
W126 350SDL
X204 GLK 250 Sans Bluetec

Sounds good. If you do decide to adjust the steering box, I would recommend doing so with the front wheels off the ground. Similar to the wheel bearings, tighten the adjustment post until you feel a little resistance, then back off a smidge, run the steering lock to lock a few times, check again.

Good luck, hope you resolve it.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

I had a broken mount on a front shock , 300tdt , driving gave you the feeling of a boat going over a wake . Slightly alarming over 65 mph

youull need a helper to check for movement in the rack or suspension , with the tire off the ground have someone slowly with a crowbar underneath the tire , lift up , then release , it should show itself . For tires or bearings a back and forth shaking will show play . A good alignment shop is heavy on cars that show worn out parts . Sounds like you’ve done the right work , it’s a little gremlin for sure .

Ck. that new steering shock ,take off one end extend fully, compress fully, there should not be any gaps or easy spots at the ends, have seen a number of new ones bad.

I removed my steering shock in 2008 and never missed it or noticed any difference except not having it made slow tight turns easier.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Did you check or replace the idler arm bushings?
That wasn't listed in the parts you replaced.

__________________
1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

I wish there was a like feature on this forum!

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My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

__________________
1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

Sorry guys didn't realize there were more responses to this thread.


I am still having the issue and I did replace the entire idler arm assembly with genuine mercedes benz parts.



The steering is smooth as silk, the ride is fantastic AND when you go over the bumps in a straight line it's very hard to notice.



It's MUCH more pronounced when you are turning the steering wheel and hitting bumps/holes.



This lead me to believe it was bearings but they looked fine and I repacked them. I tightened the nut as tight as I could by hand then backed of a tiny bit before tightening down the set bolt. I did not feel any lateral play.


So I figured any lateral clunking, if not from bearings, would logically move inboard towards the steering box. I need to get under there and pry on the steering arm and shaft.


Literally every other suspension component/bearing/bushing etc is all new.

__________________
190D SOLD
2.5 non turbo
5 speed manual transmission
Build date: December 1985
W211 E320 CDI
W126 350SDL
X204 GLK 250 Sans Bluetec

Did you try office?

Steering shaft have couplers in it or slips?

With everything you replaced, I can only suggest that it may be the front springs and perhaps the rubber buffers.

Springs do fatigue over time.
As the rubber buffers age they will lose their pliability, and hence their ability to cushion.

Tire design (and pressure) can also appreciably affect road manners.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022