Bypass compressor w/shorter belt?? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 10-29-2022, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Parallel flow condensers cannot be flushed reliably. Replacement is the only viable option.

In fairness, he stated it was a 90 at first… Are the 98’s parallel flow?

vstech · #17 10-29-2022, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treetops

Well, I sourced a belt 6pk2082 but it does not clear the compressor pulley, so still spins it by running over it. Any easy way to, fuse or plug, to disable the compressor so I can get heat without the hvac calling for ac? The pulley removal looks like a enough of a chore to just so thinking just replace the whole compressor.

I did not run it without a belt on, but ran it with the and turned the hvac on and lo and behold: a loud squeal and smoke rising from the compressor area. I guess the compressor froze and locked the pulley.

Since the belt is shot, ya should get a shorter one, and remove the compressor.
Or buy a replacement clutch, and just change that. The seized compressor won’t care if you put a new clutch on, and leave the power off it, if you decide to use a stock belt size.

vstech · #18 10-29-2022, 10:30 PM

It’ll be pretty easy to change the clutch on a seized compressor…

Graham · #19 10-30-2022, 10:06 AM

This a thread from back when I installed a shorter belt on my W210 E3320. Diesel may have different geometry for belt routing, but maybe this will help:

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/eliminate-noisy-a-c-clutch-compressor.3038102/

Routing looks similar if this is the same turbo-diesel. But still likely need to eliminate A/C clutch pulley or complete compressor.

treetops · #20 10-31-2022, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

I have 98 e320. I bypassed the compressor using a shorter serpentine belt. It did come close to the compressor pulley, so I removed that and the clutch. Alternative was to remove the compressor.

Was the removal of the pulley/clutch straightforward or did you have to unbolt the compressor to get it in a position to use a puller to get the pulley off? I've read accounts of: it comes off easy peazy (a Mbownersclub video) to "I took a pry bar to it" to use of a puller.

Anyway, I took the car out for a bit of a drive today with the shorter belt and the heater with the EC button ON and all seemed functional (no noises). The shorter belt rides over the pulley which may actually tighten the belt a bit more than typical. Belt seems to be fine as in not hot from friction.

Graham · #21 10-31-2022, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treetops

Was the removal of the pulley/clutch straightforward or did you have to unbolt the compressor to get it in a position to use a puller to get the pulley off? I've read accounts of: it comes off easy peazy (a Mbownersclub video) to "I took a pry bar to it" to use of a puller.

Anyway, I took the car out for a bit of a drive today with the shorter belt and the heater with the EC button ON and all seemed functional (no noises). The shorter belt rides over the pulley which may actually tighten the belt a bit more than typical. Belt seems to be fine as in not hot from friction.

I don't recall using anything special. I think I may have mentioned how I did it in the Benzworld W210 forum link. I do remember having concerns about getting it off before I did it. I didn't remove the compressor. On the E320, the belt was rubbing. I had hoped it would not. Your diesel may just be slightly different.

Hope it works out for you.

BillGrissom · #22 11-06-2022, 09:55 AM

Those belt route designs are surprising. In both, the AC compressor pulley has less than 1/4 "wrap", making it easier for the belt to slip. In contrast, the alternator pulley has almost a full wrap. Most cars add an idler pulley, when needed, to increase pulley wrap. In the E300, the fan pulley is driven on both sides by the belt, which works but never seen that, though even with both sides it still has maybe 10 deg wrap.