Agreed. This is the sort of slow moving narrative that fuels this forum

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Glad I could help...

I splurged and ordered the chain crimp tool.
I ordered it from FCP Euro, and wouldn't you know those clowns sent me an empty box.
I was planning to get the new chain in this weekend, but that's no longer going to happen.
For the few dollars you save on the parts you order they sure make you pay the difference and then some on BS.
Should've ordered it from this threads sponsor. I would probably have it in my hand right now. I think I have finally learned my lesson.

Ok. I finally got the chain crimp tool, and have replaced the timing chain and tensioner.
I have installed an IWIS chain and a Genuine Mercedes tensioner.
Rotating the engine [by hand] feels much better with the new chain and tensioner.

Today I re checked the start of injection timing, and it was waaaaay off. I had to displace the pump, again. After doing so I was disappointed to find that I was still not able to achieve the setting of 24BTDC. I am assuming that I did not have the pump centered enough when I re installed it.
Max setting I can get with the pump fully retarded is 32 BTDC
Max setting with the pump fully advanced is 48 BTDC (for reference).
I am planning on displacing the pump yet again which is a bummer.

Some things I noticed and have questions about:

I notice that when setting the pump timing I am not able to rock the pump and get to where I want to be "statically". Instead, I have to rotate the engine to see where the start of injection is, then rotate the pump and go around again to see where I ended up. Repeating this procees until I arrive at the setting or realize that I cannot.
This does not seem correct. What would cause this??
I am using the constant pressure method where approx 5psi is supplied to the pump with the return line closed off and then pump timing is set while maintaining this pressure. Seems a lot easier and more reliable than trying to use the hand plunger on the pump.


Also I noticed when I removed the injection pump element from the #1 position on the pump that there appears to be a very haggard o-ring in the pump. I am working with an MW pump and the manual does not show an o-ring as being fitted so what am I looking at??
It's totally possible that the crack heads who had this car previously just went ahead and shoved an o-ring in there for whatever reason....

A picture of what I am talking about. O-ring?? at arrow.


The plate on my pump.


The manual showing what should be in there

Not totally clear on your timing method. When I’ve done this, I set the crank to 24 BTDC and then rocked the pump until finding the requisite drip rate. I’m sure someone here can do the math but it sounds like you may still be a tooth off.

Regarding the pump element, there should be a copper crush washer below the delivery valve. It’s very specific and a real pain to find. Are you sure thats a rubber o ring? If so, that’s insane/hilarious and would certainly affect the timing of the corresponding cylinder.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I do not see how I could be a tooth off at this point. With the new chain installed the mark on the camshaft is very close to being spot on with the crank at O/T. Changing cam timing one tooth either way puts the cam mark way off, much like it was way back when I originally discovered that the timing was off (old chain still installed).
I think I just didn't get the pump displaced correctly.

That rubber O-Ring has got to go .

I no longer remember where I found and bought the correct size Copper seals, I left an envelope full of them in my 300CD when I sold it on to some kid .

I remember carefully measuring the I.D. as well as the O.D. and then looking online, maybe I used Google, I know I mentioned where I got them at the time .

You're getting closer, take your time and do this right it'll be worth the effort .

I don't know what you mean by "pump displaced correctly" ? .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

The factory manual refers to the act of removing the pump, re aligning the marks on the pump and then re installing the pump so that it is in the center of it's range (Engine positioned at 24BTDC) as "Displacing the pump."


I must have gotten something wrong when I did this last as I was not able to achieve the correct start of injection setting.
The first time I had to do this it worked fine, most recently not. Not sure what the difference was, but I'm going to have to try again.

My buddy who's a factory trained M-B Mechanic and runs an indie M-B Shop, told me to always use the setting bolt .

He says no need to buy the special $15 one, just modify a bolt as necessary .

Let us know as I need to time my 240's I.P. and want to follow others who've had success before me .

TIA,

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Apologies. Really not sure what you're referring to here.


I removed my pump again. Set the engine to 24 BTDC. Aligned the marks on the pump. Re installed the pump and this time was able set the start of delivery by rotating the pump until the drips were at a 1 per second interval.


Rotated the engine by hand and verified start of delivery twice.

Looks like you’ve figured it out —but what I was referring to regarding being a tooth off, was the installation of the pump, not the cam.

You should be able to find the dimensions of the crush washer in the archives. I know I’ve posted them before.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I was oping this would be the case .

The I.P.'s drive splines are *very* fine for just this purpose .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

It started.

I cranked it over for about 15 seconds at a time with the injector lines cracked at the injectors. After each round of cranking I tightened up any of the lines that had fuel coming out of them.

On the 3rd go around it fired up, ran really poorly then died. I noticed that the #1 injector was still dry at this point, so I think it was misfiring on that cylinder.

Fired it up again and this time stayed running. Fuel was now present at Cylinder #1 so I tightened the fitting.

Shut the engine off and filled the cooling system.
I had left the system empty in case I was had to tear back into it.

Started the engine again and ran it until both radiator hoses were hot and coolant was obviously circulating, then shut it down.

I will need it to start a couple more times until I attempt to start driving it anywhere.


Thanks to all the people that helped with this.

That's good news to hear .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Congratulations. Nice perseverance on your part.

How did you manage to make that post without putting the first two words in all caps?

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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660