I am reconditioning my air conditioning, so I have the condenser, radiator, belts, water pump, thermostat, etc. out and I remembered a video by Uncle Kent on the front bolt backing out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6r78UiUuKk&list=PLtRKk64pu2woqgYO95_Iuo16_ixGdRaAl&index=165

I thought this would be a good time to check it, but I'm not exactly sure how. Do I need to remove the bolts holding the pulley on, then wedge something in there to stop it from turning in order to check the torque? And what should it be torqued to? Or is it possible to test with the pulley on?

Also, is there anything else I should be looking at while I'm in here?

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

Torque on the crank bolt is from 270 to 330 NM, so you have plenty of leeway. Remove the vibration damper and pulley only to be able to hold the balancing disc with a socket extension at one of its recesses against the engine lip to oil pan. If you can find another way to hold the engine from rotating (ie: a flywheel-stop), removing the damper and pulley won't be necessary. If you can't, then you might as well replace the crank seal while you're in there.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

I'd put a socket and a bar on, if it seems tight and the seal isn't leaking walk away. I wouldn't break it loose to check the torque and if it isn't broken loose before torquing it the torque value is way off.

Do check and probably replace with the 4? small bolts holding the pulley to the balancer. It is common for the front crank seal to leak after replacement, it requires a special tool to prevent the lip from rolling over during installation and it can't be seen until it leaks.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

This.

I remember taking a look after seeing that video. Though after this many years, it is extremely unlikely you'll find, say, half the torque that should be there. Those bolts have either let go completely or are virtually welded in place. I gave them all a cursory tightness check, but it was obvious after a visual inspection alone.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I would leave them alone if not wobbling or leaking.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Yes, I agree that is all sound advice. But, my front crank seal was leaking and it was black and gooey up front. So, I dug deeper and removed the pulley, harmonic balancer, got the seal out, and the ring... nope. That ring has a nice groove worn in it, so it needs to be replaced. I got the puller from M*source, but that doesn't help starting out. I am looking for a 616 580 00 33 puller, but I can't seem to find one anywhere. Is there still a tool rental, or borrow program here at Diesel Discussion? I know Phil would hook me up somehow. I miss that guy.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

Do some searching about the lip on the seal getting rolled over during the spacer install. IIRC there is a special tool to prevent the "roll over". Did mine about 20 years ago and I think I used a plastic cup with the bottom cut out to install it. The cup method should be in the archives.
Depending upon where the groove is in the ring, reversing the ring can provide a new sealing surface.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Thanks, I got the $125 kit from Amazon (soon to be seen on eBay). You put the new ring into the new seal, then assemble the kit and it pushes everything in using the original bolt. BTW, I found that the new number for the puller is 102 589 00 33, and it might be available in Europe. How did you get that ring off the shaft? Mine is welded, I think.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

I don't remember the sleeve putting up much resistance at all, my recall is that it just came off. It was so long ago that I may have removed it when the crank was out which would have made it easy.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

My ring is on there like it's welded. How about a modified (and sharpened) channel lock pliers? I just need to get back there to open the gap a little bit. It's suggested to hammer a tool's jaw back in there, but somewhere the chain isn't, so that's from underneath... Oh yeah, that's reasonable.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

I don't remember them ever being hard to remove. Have you tried heating it up a little?

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Jim

Yes, I tried heating it and prying at it with sharpened seal puller fingers, and I tried whacking at it from underneath with a jaw of the purchased puller tool and a hammer. I can't get this thing to budge. Looks like the tool is $575 now.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

I ended up getting the puller (102 589 00 33 00). Still It's been a month sitting with the hood open, but I got a bit done.

The list for my records reads:

Coolant drained and replaced
Water pump
Thermostat
Overflow tank pressure cap
Radiator neck reinforced
Upper radiator hose
Lower radiator hose
Hose from expansion tank to lower radiator
“Short hose” under thermostat
Both hoses to aux water pump
Hose under monovalve
Repainted pipe, monovalve to aux pump
Touched up battery tray
Air filter
ALDA O-ring
Sanden AC Compressor and kit
Klima Parallel flow condenser
Transmission cooler flex hoses
All belts replaced
Front crank seal & spacer ring
New Euro coupe front bumper
Shifter black rubber surround
Shifter light bulb

It's running smoothly and not leaking. So far, so good.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

Nice, you got a bunch of work done. What remains on the "to do list"?

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Timing chain and CV boots.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather