I will be replacing the rear seal on my 300D's sun roof lid (see attached picture 1 and picture 2).

Since there are no clips for attaching this seal and on inspection, the original seal appears to have been attached using adhesive, my question:
Would M-B's "Special Adhesive" (attached picture 3) be the correct adhesive to use or would another adhesive be recommended for this application?

I'd appreciate any advice for this. Thanks

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What is that "special Adhesive" ?????? Without seeing it, I bet it's yellow and nothing more than contact cement.

1300L is probably the best contact adhesive on the market. We use it to glue on rubber deicing boots on airplanes. I can't imagine MB has anything more "special" than that. 2nd thought, I bet it's special because they overcharge for glue. Landau top glue is another really good contact cement. My trick is everything gets wiped down with MEK. Then I put glue on both pieces, let it dry for an hour or so, then hit it again. Let it dry and assemble. It takes an act of congress to peal a $7000 deicing boot off a leading edge.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scotchgrip2.php?clickkey=13849
You can probably find it in smaller quantities if you look around. Can't believe the stuff is 70some bucks a quart! What planet are we living on???????

I have been using this stuff for years. You can use it as a contact cement. Coat both sides and let the sit out till they are tacky and stich them together. This stuff can take high like engine temps.

https://www.hillas.com/Categories/Rubber-and-Gasket-Adhesives/3M-Scotch-Weld-Nitrile-High-Performance-Rubber-And-Gasket-Adhesive-847-Brown-5-oz-36-per-case.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21641190650&gclid=CjwKCAjwr5_CBhBlEiwAzfwYuFUCGHgRr7sKwzkh1709FogshbEz7uT8QcrzgYc_jekCwM7WyGyPRBoCBt4QAvD_BwE

My first experience with it was at the Naval Shipyard. The other diesel shop used it to glue gaskets on so they would not move during assembly. What I found out is that when they took the engines apart and sent the engines with the unscraped gaskets off to the hot thank the gasket would get eaten off but we had to scrape the glue that was still there off.
So, the adhesive can take the heat of being on an engine block.

Since that time, I have used the stuff on all kins of things including gluing shoe soles back on that have come off.

"AI Overview
3M 847 Nitrile High Performance Rubber & Gasket Adhesive is a solvent-based, nitrile-based adhesive with medium viscosity, suitable for bonding a variety of materials like rubber, plastics, and leather. It offers good heat and water resistance, and is known for its high strength and fast-setting properties.
Key Specifications:
Type: Solvent-based, nitrile-based adhesive.
Viscosity: Medium, approximately 1500 to 3200 cPs according to R.S. Hughes.
Peel Strength: 31 lb/in at 14°C according to Ellsworth Adhesives.
Shear Strength: 200 psi at 14°C according to Ellsworth Adhesives.
Solids Content: 33 to 39% (by weight).
Color: Brown.
Open Time: Up to 10 minutes.
Heat Resistance: Up to 110°C (230°F).
Shelf Life: 2 years.
Flammability: Flammable.
Typical Use: Bonding nitrile rubber, plastics, gasketing materials, and leather to various substrates.
Specific Gravity: 0.91."

"MADE FOR CHALLENGING CONDITIONS: Delivers excellent moisture and heat resistance, performing up to 250 °F (121 °C)"
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069393/

It is not cheap it is $27 for a large 5-ounce tube on Amazon. In the past I have bought it on ebay.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

jagboy69 and Diesel911: I surely appreciate such detailed and helpful posts! Great.
Both outstanding 3M products (studied their website for comparative details).
I plan to use the 1300.
Thanks again.

Rather than replacing the seal, you could try to soak it in Power Steering Stop Leak. That stuff helps to rejuvenate rubber and puff it back up. You might still have to take the seal out to really soak it, as compared to just painting some Stop Leak on the surface of the seal that you can get to.

I'm surprised to see that they would have used a glue for the seal, but so be it. I'd probably use a silicone caulking if that's the case. The stuff can handle the heat and weather changes well.

Over the decades, I seem to have missed this tip so thanks for mentioning it.
Picture 1 shows how, over 40+ years and lots of heat given its position and being depressed with the sun roof in the closed position, the seal turned very hard and even cracked and fell apart upon removal. So, a replacement was required.

Until I removed the seal, I didn't know one way or the other. Thus far, I have removed all except the left corner (so that I may have it for reference for a little while). In Picture 2 here, the area in the yellow square (right corner) is where I have found adhesive residue after cleaning. It is the typical yellow color for a rubber cement sort of adhesive. I'm expecting (but no guarantees) that when I remove the seal from the left corner, there will be similar adhesive residue in the same area. We'll see.

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