Hello Good People,


Drove 10min to the grocery and returned to find a puddle of coolant under the car.


Opened hood and say a constant drip in the yellow are. I think the issue is with the Heater core right to feed pipe: 123 832 88 94


After replacing this hose will I need to burp the system?


Are there any kits that include all associated hoses?


Thank you.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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85 300TD (169K)

Kit??? Uh, no. Hope it's just a hose for your sake. Personally I hate that pipe nightmare.

Someone really needs to come up with a stainless steel upgrade. I don't bend pipe so don't ask me.

Mine is from 84 and not leaking. If he could find a new one to replace it, I think it would outlive the rest of the car.

I am just going to add this here. They make welding rods you can use with a propane torch they claim can weld any metals together. There is also low temp silver solder that can be had at places like Home Depot.

If there is just some pin hole, he might be able to weld a thick blob of what I mentioned over the hole, and it might never leak again as long as he owns the car.

The other bugger is that inside corrosion starts when the antifreeze loses anti-corrosion qualities. No telling the condition of the heater core. But not worth it till the heater core leaks.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It could be the steel tube rusted through.

Originally the hoses were sold separately. You might find on eBay someone had assembled them into a kit.

However, I can't say for sure all w123's have the same steel tubing set up or that they use the same hoses.

There is Russian part sights that you can find the exact part numbers for your specific vehicle. Once you have the part numbers you can go shopping.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hello Everyone!

Thank you All for the supportive feedback.
So some think the issue might be the the metal pipe and not the hose? I ordered a new hose and will have to get everything disconnected to determine the condition of the pipe. Will report the condition of the metal pipe after my lower back heals.

Once I get everything disconnected and reassembled, is there a bleeding process?

For such a lovely car I am back to spitting-n-cursing.

Thanks.

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85 300TD (169K)

No one but you is there to observe so it is hard to say if it is the hose or not.

This is a different area but up front on the engine I had a leak in the lager hoses at the bypass hose and the top of the thermostat housing.

What I found was deep pitting between the hose and the aluminum. In short it was eaten up under there. Something similar could also happen to the steel tube under the hose.

I think replacing what may be 35-year-old plus hoses is not a bad idea. However, I bought hoses for mine over 10 years ago and never changed them out. I figured if they are not leaking leave them alone.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Ya can't weld rusty junk. If those pipes are that thin, forget repairing them.
I tig, mig and stick weld steel, aluminum, bronze and do a little stainless steel work. I'm not picking up a propane torch unless I'm soldering copper and even then, I prefer acetylene and silfoss.

I've never had any issue bleeding my diesel, probably because when I'm messing with coolant, I have the front end up on ramps. I fill it up, start it up, watch for the thermostat to open and add more coolant. After a short ride and cool down, I'll top up to the Kuhlwasserstand! ;-)

These don't have much trouble with air in the cooling system.

Safely raise the front of the car,
have the heater in the on position,
fill the system slowly, run it keeping a close watch on the temp gauge, let it cool and refill it to the cold mark. You should be good.

Don't use more than 50% coolant and use distilled water if available.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

The rust is on the inside and welding is a misnomer (I used the term welding because the ads claim it will weld any metal to other metals). It is actually a brazing or soldering process. I would be brazing over the exterior of the metal after it is cleaned up down to the base metal.

I was a diesel mechanic for 18 years of my life (mostly not trucks) and I have seen all manner of repairs done on coolant systems. I have seen people patch up a small hole in a radiators with regular soft solder. Of course, with the later aluminum radiators you need something different.

Of course, the best fix is replacement with a new part. But those new parts are often NLA.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hey jagboy69, Sugar Bear, and Diesel911,

I very much appreciated your time and support chiming in on this matter. Your probably on to something with that pipe. I will have it off tomorrow, just giving my sore back another day to recover.

You'd think someone is making this part.
Thanks to you guys I have successfully installed a working AC setup. Can't enjoy the AC until I fix this coolant drip.

For sure I will upload some images of the pipe.

Thank you again!

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85 300TD (169K)

Oh trust me, I've got a degree in JB Weld! The stuff is amazing!

My pipes are showing some signs of corrosion, just like everyone else's here. I know one day, they will lose the battle. Then what????? Has anyone come up with a solution for replacing them? NLA is NLA after all.

Well. See post 4 for a drawing of the pipes numbered 218 in the drawing. The steel tubing could be replaced by hose and unions and a plastic Y connector for the top tubing.

Someone would just need to make a bracket to hold the hoses to the firewall or make the hoses a lot longer and route them differently.

I have never had mine off, but the steel tubing just seems to be a space saving idea.

What is black tube along firewall 300D W123?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hello Good People,

Thank you for your patience in this exciting saga. What I thought was a hose issue has turned out to be a #218 metal pipe issue. Behind the metal pipe must be a small hole. Engine too hot to remove at the moment.

Should I be looking at the JB Weld route or doing this repair using heater hose and the Y connector as described by Diesel911?

If going the hose route what size should I be looking at 3/4 or 5/8 hose?

Thanks

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85 300TD (169K)

Personally, I have no idea what size hose is needed.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Dammit... I was hoping it wasn't going to be your pipe. I would try the jb weld route before anything else. Scuff it gently with some 60 grit paper, wipe it super clean with acetone and try JB weld. If it's a pin hole, put a decent sized blob over the hole. About the size of a quarter! And whatever you do, do not use fast set JB weld. I think that's the 5 minute stuff.. It's total garbage. Mix it evenly, give it a couple of minutes to stiffen up then apply it to your pipe. Give that thing at least 24hrs to setup before allowing water back into that pipe. This should get you back mobile again, meanwhile, maybe you can source a new pipe. If you wanna go in the business of making a nice stainless solution, I will be your first customer! Good luck! If it doesn't work, you can always try hose and a Y. That would work too. I wanna say 5/8" hose is the right size, but I wouldn't bet vital parts of my anatomy on that one... lol