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#1
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Floor jacks and MB's...?
Okay, where do you put the jack on 123 chassis MB's? Is it okay to jack up/place jackstands under the subframes? If not, where? Don't want to make a mistake... Thanks, RT
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#2
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To lift the front - right behind the oil pan there is a frame cross member. To lift just a tire off the ground put it underneath the jack points (if they are not rusted - if they are rusted out sell the car). To lift both back tires - the differential will do.
Don't climb underneath without jack stands in place.
__________________
Jim |
#3
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I prefer jacking the front under the frame rails, and the rear under the subframe mounts. Easier to get to with a small floor jack.
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#4
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Can you explain what you mean by "frame rails"? Also, where's the rear cross member?
Also, I wonder, if you jack at the jack points, where do you put the jack stands? Don't they have to go where the jack points are? (I'm about to do this for the first time, so I'm anxious to find out.) Thanks, |
#5
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Quote:
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#6
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Jack points..
Are nothing but irritation. Almost EVERY car ive seen in the NE has jack points rusted out in some way. I filled area around mine with hard spray foam insulatation, sanded to body contour, and painted. Looks like original jack points, and stops moisture from entering.
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#7
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Dweller, that was an important question you asked...
I think the system is designed to be safe if you use the MB outside jack in the hole , then use a stationary jack stand under the correct points... If anyone uses the hydraulic roll around jack be sure to place a piece of wood on the jack point for two reasons... one is to keep the four fingers from crunching the bottom of your car.. and the other is because it is slick otherwise and more prone to sliding off.. Remember that if one places one end of a car on stationary jacks and attempts to jack up the other end that you must be on a hard surface.. like concrete because the jack must move up under when jacking.. otherwise it can pull the car off the stationary jacks... |
#8
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I don't feel good about using the differential, its not part of the primary load bearing structure.
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#9
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I would second the recommendation to use a piece of soft wood on top of the jack saddle. I've seen rubber pads advertised but wood seems to work just as well. There's nothing like the crunching sound the wood makes as you jack her up to remind you to be careful.
I jack the front end on the frame rails far enough back that there is room on the rails in front of the jack to put the stands. For the rear I jack just inboard from the subframe mounts (dweller - those are the round attachment points for the rear subframe just ahead of the wheel. A metal pressing attaches there and then goes back toward the wheel) and again allow space to put the jack stand right below the subframe mount. I know it is quicker to raise the whole end of the car at a time but with a floor jack it's not much more work and then I can get the stands right where I want them.
__________________
LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold |
#10
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Front frame rails: look under the car behind the front wheel. About a foot or so inward, you can't miss them.
Rear subframe mount: directly in front of the rear wheel. Circular looking thing, a few inches in diameter. |
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