|
|
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Also, I presume that regular RTV will be good enough for the rear cover gasket? Also, would putting teflon tape on the plug threads be a good idea, or just go with anti-seize, or what? Thanks!
__________________
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 5 speed, daily driver 1991 Ford F-350, work in progress 1984 Ford F-250 4x4, 6.9l turbo diesel, 5 speed manual Previous oilburners: 1980 IH Scout, 1984 E-350, 1985 M-B 300D, 1979 M-B 300SD, 1983 M-B 300D Spark-free since 1999 |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
I didn't have the time or patience to wait for another order on that stuff for my 84, but I will make sure to change that when I do it to my 83. Thanks for the suggestion. I just used (blue) RTV I believe.
IMO teflon + oil = BAD (granted it won't be wet when you put the bolts in anyway but still....) The factory used the locktite type on the threads. I reused them and used medium strength (blue) locktite, it is probably suggested in the manual that you replace the bolts all together but.... Is it much if any work to replace those seals? Come to think of it are those just the copper crush type? ~jm
__________________
Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Front seal is a little bit of work,
I was suggesting side seals where the axles fit. IF you've got a big pry bar, they will pop out with some judicious use of force. New ones , find an appropriate socket and tap in until seated. C-clips may be found at the dealer else, reuse them. They should fit snuggly.. if it is loose order and wait a few extra days. Front seal requires making or purchasing a special socket. You've got to take the driveshaft loose... so it's more work. Mine fornt seal oozes, but what do you expect for 310,000 miles and 21 years? While it would be nice to fix, it's low on my priority list-every low. Side seals are always easy if you have it apart. OEM or you can purchase them from a dealer for $6-7 each. Michael
__________________
Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Oh,
Silicone will work.. or you can find someother non-hardening sealer. I use the anearobic stuff(ussually wurth brand), but in a pinch find something at napa/autozone etc. Bolts don't have to be sealed, just get the sealer on the inside edge. Cleanlness pays off with zero leaks. It's an easy job- don't sweat this one too much. Only problem ppl seem to have is removing the c-clips sometimes(they are tight). Michael
__________________
Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The front seals on both my MBs leak, just figured it wasn't worth the time. I mean it is merely enough to hold dirt. Quote:
~jm
__________________
Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Big? maybe 24-36 inches...
Longer requires less force. The seal has a metal part. You're putting the prybar under the metal lip(through the axle hole and popping it out. Think I saw a picture in the haynes W123 manual. Don't know... So, you mangle the old seal, but the prybar never hits the sealing surface. If it does, use a little permatex sealer or something after removing any bur created. Does that help jim? Got to go... liimited daytime access here in Russia. I'll check back.. but maybe a week or so. Sincerely, Michael
__________________
Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Ok that makes sense, especially now that I know what it looks like.
Thanks Micheal, Jeff M.
__________________
Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|