![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
w123 brake pad replacement advice
I've read both Jim Smith's post and the DIY for the W124 on the forum...i have a question about the bleeding portion of the pad replacement. I'm just going to try to replace my front pads... Is it necessary for me to bleed the whole system when I replace the pads or is this a whole different evolution?(Jim Smith mentions the bleeding of brake fluid but the DIY on the forum does not.) Sorry for the confusion but this is my FIRST brake job but I gathered courage from Larry Bible's comment on the easiness of this job. Thanks for your help.
1984 300 DT ![]() |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
In my opinion its only necessary to bleed the front brakes. However, you can do some good for the car if you go ahead and bleed the rear brakes to flush out the old fluid. It gets pretty nasty over time with contaminants like water and rubber particles. These contaminants shorten the life of your brake system parts.
Ken300D |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Ken is correct. As long as you are into it, bleed the whole system. Setting up is the hardest part of the job.
Remember, hit the bleeder valves with penetrating oil. JCD |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
asti84,
Glad to hear my post is still of value. Brake fluid is cheap and the general recommendation by Mercedes is to replace the fluid once every two years. All of it. I typically change the fluid with every pad change, which happens much more frequently on the front than the rear. When you change the fluid you will see it is very dark compared to the stuff coming out of the new bottle. I use Catrol GT LMA fluid only, and have had brake systems last over 250,000 miles regularly, with reasonable fluid change intervals. Openning the bleed screw to aid in pushing the pads back into the caliper has proven to make the job much easier and avoids pushing that discolored, dirty fluied into the system. Good luck, Jim
__________________
Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
While you may wish to combine brake bleeding with pad replacement, there is no necessity that you do both jobs at the same time. Replacing the pads can be done independently of bleeding the brakes and can be accomplished in less than half an hour once you are familiar with the procedure.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the input
I appreciate all the input from everyone...I will get the pads, fluid, paste, sensors, tools from a europarts store tomorrow and will update you on my progress...Again, thank you to all...and A Happy new Year!!!
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I'm just wondering, but now that it's been brought up, in every manual I've seen, it's been said that the brakes need to be bled as the final step in replacing brake pads. What is the reason for this, besides replacing the fluid? I've done brakes on a few vehicles, without bleeding the system, and haven't had a problem...the pedal's always felt exactly the same.
Also, how much fluid usually comes out when you do a complete replacement? I suppose that fluid replacement is something I should do at some point, probably when I do my brakes (that needs to happen PDQ; I've put it off way too long)... Thanks!
__________________
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 5 speed, daily driver 1991 Ford F-350, work in progress 1984 Ford F-250 4x4, 6.9l turbo diesel, 5 speed manual Previous oilburners: 1980 IH Scout, 1984 E-350, 1985 M-B 300D, 1979 M-B 300SD, 1983 M-B 300D Spark-free since 1999 |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Well, there is no need to bleed the brakes...other than the safety aspect.
I am not going into my standard lecture on brake fluid here, you can do a search, etc. Suffice it to say though, that the longer the fluid is in the system, the more water it absorbs. Brake fluid loves to take water out of the air, and no, your system is NOT sealed. The more water suspended in this fluid, the more risk of fluid boil out of this water. IOW, it makes steam! which is a rotten hyrdrualic fluid! IOW, you get massive brake fade-NO BRAKES! ![]()
__________________
Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Another thing you will see and need to be aware of on the W123 cars is that after you replace the pads the pedal will initially feel "spongy" until the pads "seat" in good. I don't have a clue why they do this so after you bleed the brakes a couple times and are convinced the air is out of the system they may initially feel a little spongy.
__________________
Jim |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Mike
__________________
Mike '80 300D '84 300D '85 300D '87 300D |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
PBR Brakes?
I called the local Europarts store here in Orabge County (Newport Beach) and I asked for OEM brake pads and the guy said he doesn't carry any of the "German Stuff" because they create too much brake dust and eat up the rorors too fast. They are bad enought that" his customers wanna shove it up youknowhere..." He sells PBR brake pads made in Australia. Has anyone used this brand? Please advice. Thanks.
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
The brake pads I favor have been "Metal Masters" from Australia. You never know about these names, and the same pad might be "brand-marketed".
I think this parts guy had it wrong. The way I see it, Mercedes made a choice about brake pads. They chose to eat up the brake pads (thus, creating a lot of dust) rather than putting more metal in the pad (Which eats up more of the rotor, but gives you more fade resistant brakes). The soft pads give you a more immediate bite, but are quicker to fade. Probably a fair choice for most driving in urban/suburban life.
__________________
Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|