Wheel bearing/axle post part 2 - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

sublettm · #16 01-01-2003, 12:07 PM

Thanks Jim. I just hate to get rid of the car and have an axle on it that I could have used.

Mike

240 Ed · #17 01-01-2003, 12:12 PM

Thanks Ken,

...

Quote:

When I did this job I didn't remove the rear brake calipers. However, I think the reason this is a good thing has to do with the stress put on the brake hoses at the extreme limit of downward travel of the hub.

It has been a while, and you jogged my memory on this.

Yeah, that is the reason you need to take off the calipers, for the drop.
But I can't say I remember dropping the differential mounting. I think there was enough clearance. I suppose you could disconnect the shock for more travel.

#18 01-02-2003, 10:14 AM

Warden, In reference to the clips holding the half axles. I didn't mean to imply you had to use circlip pliers. I used one half of the 90 degree pliers as a hook, not as a pliers, and it fit nicely. I put the half of the pliers in a vicegrip in order to get more leverage as it took quite a bit of pressure to pull it. (it flew a good 10 feet when it did come loose). Lee Derby

240 Ed · #19 01-02-2003, 08:26 PM

Lee, That is exactly the tool I used as well !

Drape a towel over the whole deal when you pull the clip, that way you can find the clip again...and you can save face too!

Fisherman · #20 02-10-2003, 11:10 AM

I have been doing my research and see that replacing the axleshafts is no big deal but here is my dilemna.

My axles are fine....
My boots however are borderline and since I regularly drive 700 miles at a shot I wanted to replace them before they tear loose and cause problems. This has particularly comeup since I lost the dust cover on the front driveline this last trip. Scared teh He!! out of me when it went as it sounded like the driveline was about to rattle off the car at 65 MPH.

Anyway, I ned to know if you can just replace the boots? The Haynes manual says to turn this over to a shop as it is an expert only job.

Thoughts on this? I know on the old VWs you could get the split boots that you bolted into place without removing the shafts. I think you cut off the old boot and then just wrapped teh new one around the shaft and can and bolted it up...

Is this arrangement available for the 123s?

rwthomas1 · #21 02-10-2003, 11:54 AM

Apparently the split boots are available. Do a search on the topic and you should find what you are looking for. The problem with replacing just the boots is that I believe the boots are $30-40/EACH!! Carquest has remanufactured axles for $69.95. One of my boots went recently so I just did this. Sure you have to do an R&R but then you have completely "new" parts. I would guess that it would be quicker to swap axles than to replace all the boots due to setup time, etc. Just my 2cents, RT

Fisherman · #22 02-10-2003, 12:00 PM

fastlane's got them for around 21.00 I think so I was going to go this route but if I can get a whole new axle for another 20.00 I guess it makes sense to go that route. Just where I live I have a hard time finding any supply houses that have good products at a resaonable price. I also hate my local CarQuest! they're prices are so bad they won't even put labels on the shelves... Then they make you feel guilty about not buying something like "Well you know, your car is going to explode if you don't put the full windshield wiper replacement arm on instead of just the blade inserts!".

lrg · #23 02-11-2003, 12:23 AM

I replaced a boot about 2 years ago and have had no problems. If the boots on both sides are bad then go for the axle replacement otherwise the boot repalcement will save you hours of work. If you go with the boot replacement, keeping it clean when you glue it is absolutely critical. I did a bunch of posts on the topic that should come up in a search. As I recall I only paid about $18-20 for the boot.

Fisherman · #24 02-11-2003, 02:52 PM

what kind of damage can be done if you wait for a boot to break? Does this boot carry oil is it just there as a dust protector?

I'm short on cash at the moment and would love to leave it alone but don't want to end up stranded either....

trhe bad one is passenger side, inside next to the differential...

mplafleur · #25 02-11-2003, 03:41 PM

My last post was number 666 so I had do post again.

The Warden · #26 02-11-2003, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fisherman
what kind of damage can be done if you wait for a boot to break? Does this boot carry oil is it just there as a dust protector?

I'm short on cash at the moment and would love to leave it alone but don't want to end up stranded either....

trhe bad one is passenger side, inside next to the differential...

I think that my boot was torn when I got the car; I didn't notice it because I didn't know what to look at at the time (first independent rear suspension vehicle I've owned). I was able to drive the car for about 6 months before replacing them (see beginning of this post

). The only thing that I would get was the shaft occasionally getting out of position and I would need to climb under the car to physically put it back...and would usually get a couple hundred of mines before needing to do it again. OTOH, my break was on a wheel side, not a differential side...

If the boot isn't actually cracked, you're still okay; there's oil in there and no breakage means that you haven't lost any yet. Once a rubber breaks, the fluid all goes bye-bye, and then the CV joint is pretty much ruined.

Hope that helps some...good luck!

Fisherman · #27 02-11-2003, 04:47 PM

well, I'm not sure how reassuring that is...

I guess I'm trying to measure if this is a catastrphic failure or just an inconvenience that once it goes you better take care of it shortly thereafter.

If you drove yours for 6 months with a broken boot then maybe I have no worries since as soon as it breaks I can fix it.

I just don't want to be in Weed, CA when it does go and have to wait around there for parts!!

240 Ed · #28 02-11-2003, 08:18 PM

As I recall, the boots are very thick rubber. and they all look cracked after 20 years. They fail "soft" too, one of the cracks usually goes all the way through, but you don't loose any oil, as there isn't oil in there. There IS heavy grease, but it doesn't come out. The boot is there to protect the joint from getting dirt in there and acting like a grinding paste and ruining the ball bearing/cage set up. CV joints go a long way, but do not tolerate dirt.

If you notice a crack which goes all the way through, either seal it with duct tape, or silicone sealer as a temporary fix.

Replace your joints if you start hearing clicking when you turn sharply. Otherwise just ignore them.

If you feeling thrifty, you can peel back the boots and put some more grease in there and work it into the CV joints.
DO NOT USE REGULAR GREASE!!!! It heats up and runs out!
Use only grease made for CV joints. It is very sticky.

lrg · #29 02-11-2003, 10:49 PM

I first noticed my boot was cracked because it was leaking. The old grease had gotten pretty liquid so at least some of it dripped out. Even so, if you just have a crack it will take quite a while for all the grease to come out. Mine cracked in one of the "grooves" so it tended to keep most of the oil in there. When I finally replaced the boot after about 3-400 miles it still had a fair amount of grease in it and I had no damage to the CV joint. All my other boots have visible cracks but none has leaked so I just leave them alone. If you drive on dirt roads you may want to fix a cracked boot sooner.

Fisherman · #30 02-12-2003, 12:26 AM

A little more reassuring that I know someone has driven on these for a while after cracking. I'll look them over carefully and if not broken, I won't replace them yet.

thanks