Here's a bearing cap being pressed into place. I'm using one of the old bearing caps to further press in the in-service bearing cap because it has to go further into the yoke than a flush fit. Later, I found it was better to use something other than an old bearing cap to press in the new bearing cap - because it gets stuck and has to be pulled out with a vise. Better to use a socket slightly smaller than the cap bore, or a nut.

By the way, the green tape is for marking yoke orientation to get the reassembly done exactly the way it was taken apart. On the tape there is an inkmark arrow that matches up with the mating yoke.

Ken300D

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Here is a pic to show the idea of pressing in the other yoke. Alignment is not exactly straight because I had to let go of the driveshaft to hold the camera. The tricky part is making sure you get the inner bearing of the U-Joint properly aligned with the outer bearing cap containing the roller bearings. Have to be careful not to drop out or bend any of those roller bearings or the cap. It helps to smear in new grease to hold the roller bearings in place around the inner circumference of the bearing cap.

Final results were achieved by making sure the U-Joint was centered in the yokes, and then staking some of the yoke over onto the bearing cap with a chisel. That staking is easier said than done! I'm sure I staked enough metal over the caps to keep them from popping completely out. To help make sure they don't move out at all, I used a small amount of JB Weld epoxy under the "stakes" to fill up any space between them and the bearing cap. I don't have a picture of this yet as I was in a hurry to get the car reassembled.

Ken300D

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Beck has a u-joint, but MB strakes them in at the factory and there is NO means of holding the caps in place other than the straking. To replace, you need the special centering and straking too or the ability to machine snap ring slots in the housing.

I suspect the clips for the one u-joint go INSIDE the yoke, preforming the same task and the snap rings on the outside -- holding the u-joint centered.

Best bet is a used driveshaft, they don't usually go wrong. Otherwise, a rebuilt one is available, and you can weld washers over the end caps to center the joint (do this on a lathe so you can keep the shaft centered whilst working), and then you will have to have it balanced. No local driveline place will have the adapters, most likely, so expect to have to ship the bloody thing off and pay some bucks.

I've done everything but balance the shaft, and would NEVER replace the u-joint again, too much trouble when I can get a good used one cheaper.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I have got to agree. My driveshaft rebuild experience has been a big pia. Had a local machine shop replace the u-joint but there is no one in this area that can balance them. Ran it up to Driveline Service of Atl in Forrest Park, Ga this morning and am supposed to call him on Monday to get the update on it. He is going to UPS it back to me. I got there when they opened at 8:30 this morning and there were already about 5 driveshafts that people were dropping off ahead of me. Looks like a pretty good buisiness the guy has going there.

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Jim

Universal joint is available from Neapco, p/n 1-0134HD. This is for the W123 diesel model. Their website is:

http://www.neapco.com/index.php

Lot's of good info at the site.

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Jim

Jim,

Where did you find that part number? I've been all through there catalog and can't find anything listed for mercedes cars.

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85 300CD
83 300TD
78 240D (daughter)