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  #1  
Old 01-24-2003, 03:46 AM
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Stop lever doesn't stop

Well you knew I'd have some problems didn't you?

While messing with my new mity vac near the firewall and under drivers seat i seem to have found a couple of bad connections. I was doing this to fix an engine that wouldn't shut off.

Strange thing was pushing and holding stop lever would not shut it off either. I had to plug one of the lines with a tee. Now it is shutting off great and all doors are locking. According to procedure in Haynes manual for testing vaccum pump, mine is bad. Pulling throttle had no effect on mity vac gauge.

Why would stop lever not work?? What is alternate emergency way of shutting of the engine? Breather tube??? Where is it?

Thanks ... I'll have some more for you all soon. I just wanted to get this one that could be a problem if I had to leave the car running to go to work...LOL

I love the car...Feels solid! The car has some pickup too. Vaccum problems and ac problems first on my list....vaccum first.

Thanks again...Aloha
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  #2  
Old 01-24-2003, 04:21 AM
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I knocked a vacuum line loose once while doing an oil change and it wouldnt turn off. It was still new to me and i didnt know where to start looking, the stop lever didnt turn it off (it would almost try and stall, but not quite) so I removed the intake ductwork from the turbo and just put my hand over it. It sucked pretty hard but shut down within a second or two.
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2003, 06:00 AM
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My experience with using the stop lever to shut the engine off (first oil change I did, I broke the line going from the vacuum pump to the brake booster, resulting in no vacuum for a week before I got the new hose from Fastlane)is that pushing it in slowly will do just that - make the engine idle real low to the point of stalling but not actually shutting off. I found that shoving the lever to off quickly and very firmly (almost hitting it more than pushing) will always kill the engine. My guess is that this is normal.
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  #4  
Old 01-24-2003, 12:13 PM
SLUSH83240D
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I get the same deal with mine. If you really palm it hard it'll kill the motor.

I guess it's a panic button. If you were panicking you probably would apply enough force
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  #5  
Old 01-24-2003, 11:27 PM
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The shutoff on the 617 requires considerable force -- you really have to lean on it. It helps to shove down fast, too.

The lever on the 603 will kill the engine with a very light touch, go figure.

Peter
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  #6  
Old 01-25-2003, 12:35 PM
MVK MVK is offline
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Well Guys dig this:
I had the same problem, it will almost die but not shut when you use the shut off.
I started looking at all links and guess what??. The links at the cruise control area were messed up and wrongly attached and the whole mechanism of rods was messed up including the Stop shut off. Now its just a little push and stops in 2-4 seconds.

MVK
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  #7  
Old 01-25-2003, 12:42 PM
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On a lot of old diesels, the throttle linkages haven't been lubed in a couple decades. Cleaning the garf out of each ball/socket joint and putting in some fresh lube usually works wonders.
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  #8  
Old 01-25-2003, 10:21 PM
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I second the suggestion about lubricating the linkage...if it's dirty and/or dry it can stick and not move properly...there's a lot going on there, make sure it's all oiled and adjusted properly.

My STOP lever takes a pretty hard push to make it work also....If I just push it comfortably with my finger it won't shut off, but if I push it hard with the palm of my hand, it works fine.

Mike
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  #9  
Old 01-25-2003, 10:35 PM
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Actually, speaking of which, what's the best way to go about lubricating the linkage? Also, how do you adjust it and tell if it's adjusted properly?

I'm not sure if I was looking at the right thing, but I think that I may not be getting full throttle with the pedal all the way down. On the same note, although I haven't looked, my idle speed could be off...

Thanks!
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  #10  
Old 01-25-2003, 10:40 PM
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I just pop the joints apart and clean them, then lube with ATF. The book specifies a hydraulic fluid, but for a 20 year old car, I believe ATF is close enough. I renew the lube at each oil change.
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2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
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  #11  
Old 01-25-2003, 10:49 PM
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You can use a screwdriver or other flat metal object to CAREFULLY separate the small ball-joints in the linkage, clean them, grease them, and reassemble. Be careful not to bend or break anything.

There are threads on the rods, with nuts to "lock" the adjustment. With the car not running, have another person floor the pedal, then push on the linkage to see if it's actually in the "full throttle" position, and if not, adjust accordingly to compensate.

Mike
__________________
_____
1979 300 SD
350,000 miles
_____
1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy
_____
1985 300TD
270,000 miles
_____
1994 E320
not my favorite, but the wife wanted it

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www.myspace.com/openskystudio
www.myspace.com/speedxband
www.myspace.com/openskyseparators
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  #12  
Old 01-25-2003, 10:54 PM
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How do you know where full throttle is? Is there a physical stop on the injector pump somewhere, or what? Most diesels I've seen will allow you to adjust the position of both the minimum and maximum throttle positions, hence setting your idle speed and your full-throttle fueling position...

Thanks again!
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  #13  
Old 01-26-2003, 10:39 AM
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If you have a service manual, it will show you an exact length in mm for each connecting rod on the engine. Roughly measure them if any one o them is way off, that might be your problem.

MVK
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  #14  
Old 01-26-2003, 10:56 AM
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I you don't think you are getting full throttle with the pedal all the way down, check the pivots on the firewall, too -- if the plastic bushing is gone, the linkage just twists instead of working the pump, and you only get aobut 2/3 of full travel.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
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