I have tried searching for information on the oil separator but have not found adequate info.

Can the separator be "cleaned out"? Would that help? Tell me more about these O-rings and drain tubes.

The PO said that he changed the oil religiously at 3,000 miles. I can't deny the blow-by that the engine has and it is not an easily started engine when its really cold and is really a devil at temps below 25 but she runs great and idles smooth. On initial fire-up there is usually some blue/black/gray smoke. At times there is no smoke at all during idle.

As far as compression testing there are no diesel shops around that can check it. Same goes for a leak-down test. I am sure with the engine having 170,000+miles that there are some compression issues and that may be the whole problem. I guess I would just like to find out how to tweak the ole gal to get another year out of her.

Oilslick

Hmmm -- sounds just like my 220D!

check the timing chain, its probably stretched.

Check for lots of oil in the air filter housing -- if it is sitting in the ring where the filter goes, it's leaking out of the separator.

The odometer can be fixed by applying a drop of Loctite to the potmetal gear/shaft interface. YOu must remove the speedo to do this (fairly easy) and I'm not sure if the W123 is as easy as the W115/W116/W108 -- I think the gear is on the other end of the drive shaft from the worm gear on the W123.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Absolutely no oil in the housing. Extremely clean with the exception of soot all over that "doughnut" looking thing in the very center where all the clean air gets sucked in.

Will a stretched timing chain cause excessive oil consumption?

Yes

Is the timing chain an extremely hard job to do? I am confidently capable of repairing most things on this ole gal. I would like to do this myself. Be brutally honest!

The timing chain is not hard to replace. I'll be replacing mine when it comes in. My 240D mileage is unknown and the steering wheel is quite worn so I'm assuming it's a lot. You can search the forum for particular details when the time has come, but basically, it's: the removal of the valve cover, grinding off a link, attaching a new chain temporarily, and hand turning the engine to thread the new chain in place.

I'll check the stretch before I remove my old chain because I'm curious. If I use the dail indicator method (I have one around somewhere), do I have to adjust the valves first? It seems that if they are out, then my measurement will be wrong.

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

You will have to UNADJUST ONE valve... don't quote me on which one it was about may when I saw it done..... you take all the distance out of the adjustment cap on the top of the valve...when the cam is on the low spot.. then you turn the engine with the dial indicator on the top of the valve until it has been opened about 2mm.... then you look at the crank tdc line and the degree marks to see how far off...
I am not being accurate .... I am just giving you the overview... it is very simple... but only ONE valve is involved.... no excuse not to check the chain when setting the valves once you learn it....