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  #1  
Old 02-19-2003, 01:58 AM
dmorrison's Avatar
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Location: Colleyville, Texas
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Car rebuild recommendations

Well let me post here what I plan to do and get your input on what to look at in the car.
First a little backround. Is you may or may not have seen posted. I'm going to rebuild my front end on the 82 300TD. it has needed it for the last 3-4 years.
Let me go a bit further back to fill you in. I have owned the car since 1990. I bought it with 103,000 mi and now have 175,000.
I as well as the dealer maintained the car. Since about 95 It has just been an airport car and "truck" for the Home Depot runs.
I did have the timming chain replaced at 100,000 mi. and the tranny rebuilt in 90 when I bought it.
From the summer of 99 through the fall of 2002 My son and I rebuilt a 65 Mustang Fastback, Completely, What a job. So by the end of that I was pretty burnt out on working on cars. A 2.5 year restoration of a car is very fast and a lot of work.
September 11 hit our family pretty had, I'm a Captain with American Airlines. And since then My wife has dropped me off and picked me up at the airport. It gives us time together and we get to talk. She feels that she's doing something by driving me to the airport, and I don't mind. SOOO the car has not been driven since about last May. I have a leaking front left caliper. And the car did not want to accelerate past a certian RPM. It would go up to that rpm and stop any accelerating. Then when it would eventually shift it would accelerate some more. I checked the tranny and may have overfilled it. How do I know because some fluid leaked out the vent when I overfilled it. We have a 99 E300 that we are going to sell. With the Airline industry the way it is ( American may go bankrupt, maybe in June at the earliest. To prevent that they want the workers to give, think 30% pay cut) and a daughter going to College next Fall ( with a son at Oklahoma State University now) We decided that $935 a month in car payment and insurance could be cut since we have 4 cars sitting at the house.
What I plan on doing.

1. A complete front end rebuild. UCA, LCA, all rubber, springs, sway bar bushings, strut rod, steering linkages etc. etc. Then a 4 wheel alignment.

2. New front calipers, pads, rotors, hoses and bearings.

3. Rear suspension rebuild ( check the brakes) . Rubber and sway bar linkage.
This should be interesting trying to remove the rear suspension to access all the bushings. I feel a forum "search" comming on for this one

4. Flush the rear leveling system and change the filter. accumulators are 3 years old and should be ok.

5. Adjust the throttle linkage, It was suggested that this may be the acceleration problem.

6. Refering to the problem in 5 above. I will drain the fuel tank, replace the in tank filter, add biodiesel doctor, change the fuel filter and bleed the entire fuel system. Possible alge!!

7. Replace all fluid filters and fluids. Power steering, level system, tranny, rear end, oil and cooling.

8. Set the injection pump timming.

9. Adjust the valves.

10. Check the timing chain for wear and stretch.

11. Check all vacume systems for leaks.

12. Wax the poor girl, It's a little oxidized from being an outside car.

13. Clean up the interiors.


Any suggestions?????????
Any that you may have would be appreciated. We will start driving this car and the 560SL on a more regular basis. When my Daughter goes to College in the fall we will get rid of the 86 300SDL, unless we need it because i can't keep thisone going. Any traveling that we do to see the kids, We will probaly rent a car. We can get a car hear for $10 a day over the weekends, I'd rather put the milage on their car and save mine.

Dave


The fun ( think $$$$) will come in the spring when I have to repair the AC system. I converted to 134A but didn't flush the system ( yes the R-12 was evacuated), Soooooo It probably has to have everything replaced. I converted to 134A because I had a leak in the inside exchanger and didn't want to tear the dash out. Now I get to do that.

Actually I don't mind. I've begun to realize that the 300TD is becoming quite rare and I'm excited about rebuilding the girl and keeping her for quite sometime, along with the SL.

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #2  
Old 02-19-2003, 12:52 PM
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Dave,

I'm in DFW area and looking for a 99 E300... write me please. Actually, maybe the 300sdl would be a better car.

Would be happy to do some "Saturday Suspension projects" if you like.

I think someone posted they purchased everything for the front of a W123-bushings, joints, etc... $450.
Rear suspension is pretty easy- note that swaybar bushings are 201 parts. NOBODY lists them. I have the MB partnumbers that classicparts sent me somewhere.

Really, let's get together and at least have a beer!


Michael
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83 300d
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66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E
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  #3  
Old 02-19-2003, 01:35 PM
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The wagons tend to have a problem with battery acid running down the firewall and eating all the way through... so I would plan on really addressing whatever damage has occured and prep for the future.... like with POR15 applied per directions... and get one of those sandblast/suction deals so you can really clean the area a few square inches at a time without getting sand all over the rest of the engine and car...
When changing all those fluids... when the block is empty I would take out all the freeze plugs and power wash with a 90 degree head all the block insides you can reach from the core plug holes... I have seen cars where antifreeze crystalized and caused the coolant to not circulate all over....and then you can always just have muck and normal rust accumulate in the ( particularly rear ) lower pockets ...keep cleaning until all you can get to come out is drinking clean water....
If you happen to take the engine out... then you can address the oil supply channels which are sealed with steel balls or screw in plugs at the rear of the engine...
These are the types of places which would get cleaned naturally when a block is vat cleaned...in a major overhaul...
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  #4  
Old 02-19-2003, 01:39 PM
surfblau's Avatar
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Location: san francisco - immer kalt, immer windig, I want to move
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my thoughts

With regard to #1, I doubt that you need springs or guide rods, that should save you a couple hundred.

I doubt that there is any reason to retime the IP unless you have had someone tampering with it.

Have fun! The list you give really is just 2 or 3 weekends at most if you concentrate and read through all the factory manuals before you start.
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84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k
87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k
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  #5  
Old 02-19-2003, 03:48 PM
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Considering these cars will not become "collectible" you might consider doing only those things that are related to things that are broken or breaking .... on the other hand, as I was a P-3 driver, I assume you have LOTS of time off, so why not rebuild anything you want! :->
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1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet)
former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car
former 1985 300 CD - great car
former 1981 300 TD - good car
former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car
a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg
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  #6  
Old 02-19-2003, 07:31 PM
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There is nothing that brings new spring ( pun intended) to an old car like putting new springs on it... I have done it several times... and the difference in how it looks.... ( back to original height) and lighter feel from being bouncy again... and the fact that at a certain amount of droop you can not set the front suspension to factory specs ..... and the relative small cost.... it is high on my list of recommended items on a car which you want to keep... and enjoy to its max...
If you check the specs... manufacturers consider 50,000 miles as the service life of coil springs... If you have a good spring shop close you may save some money by having them heat treat and stretch them back to original size... This is perfectly legit metal wise.....
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2003, 07:38 PM
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On the " collectible" subject... what in the world are we expecting from a car ?
These are already on their 3rd DECADE of being beautiful , safe , comfortable , miserly in fuel usage, and relatively easy to work on..
Then dis them because somebody , whom we don't even know, claims they will not ever be collectible...? If I had the money I would be collecting them.... I wish I could have bought that Gibbs brother Wagon sold on Ebay a while back .... amazingly beautiful...
And there were not that many of them made... so I don't even know how one would come to the conclusion that they are not collectible...
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  #8  
Old 02-19-2003, 11:03 PM
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Collectible cars

Pretty much everything is collectible eventually.

As a rule the most collectible are the sports cars, followed by the convertibles, coupes and wagons, with the wagons last.

Luxury cars are always more collectible than cheaper cars

So far my 1989 Hyundai Excel is not collectible, but by 2060 I am sure it will sell on e-bay for more than the $5,500 it cost my buddy when new...
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

"Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana"
---Marx (Groucho)
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  #9  
Old 02-19-2003, 11:24 PM
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But the wagons ARE beautiful... and you can bring stuff home from Home Depot in them.... too....
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  #10  
Old 02-20-2003, 08:28 AM
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You have to decide if this is a hobby restoration or just maintenance.

It gives you a warm glow to replace all the things that move, but most of them may not be worn...........even if you plan to keep the car forever, there wil always be parts that wear out three times in your ownership and others which will outlast oil.

Front suspension is a perfect example of the "if it aint bloke, don't fix it" philosophy. Every part of the suspension can be checked for wear and only then should a decision be made about replacements.

I'm sorry to hear about your employment prospects, but to keep a car (of any level) running well but economically, requires looking at it form the point of view of someone who is skint all the time. Thanks to Maggie Thatcher, this is something the Brits are good at.........

If you re-read your posting, there are lots of areas where money can be saved with absolutely no impact on long-term reliability, it just needs a shifting of your viewpoint.

That being said, if you are building a Concourse-winner, disregard all the above

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  #11  
Old 02-20-2003, 11:45 AM
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Uh oh .... Hornets' Nest!

Sorry if anyone was offended ... I don't follow collectible auto scene much, but I don't recall many diesel wagons in the mix ...

I had one (1981) ... nice car, but my wife wanted something more useful (minivan) ... didn't want to sell it, but I would not then, nor now, consider it to be anything more than what leathermang said they are ... "safe , comfortable , miserly in fuel usage, and relatively easy to work on.. " ... note I left out that "beautiful" thing ... sorry.
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George Stephenson
1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet)
former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car
former 1985 300 CD - great car
former 1981 300 TD - good car
former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car
a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg
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  #12  
Old 02-20-2003, 12:03 PM
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I will bet it was more ' beautiful ' than the minivan which replaced it....
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2003, 12:17 PM
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Well, duh .... I have regretted selling every MB I ever owned and haven't even thought about the demise of the Dodge Minivan ... the minivan was cheaper to own and had a certain amount of elegance of purpose and utility that no station wagon will ever have ... I would consider the minivan to be the next galactic step after the wagon ... yeah ... ugly, though ... well, unless you have five Boy Scouts with camping gear and a three hundred mile trip ahead of you.
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George Stephenson
1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet)
former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car
former 1985 300 CD - great car
former 1981 300 TD - good car
former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car
a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2003, 12:21 PM
surfblau's Avatar
neue Dieseler
 
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Location: san francisco - immer kalt, immer windig, I want to move
Posts: 382
lethermang, on the springs...

On my SDL I changed the rear subframe mounts, but the back end is definately sagging more than it should. I will make some measurements sooner or later and compare to the TDM specs, but I am sure that the spring height in the back is too short.

Rather than replace the springs, wouldn't placing a thinker spacer on the top of the spring be a possible solution? It seems that is why there is so much detailed info spring / spacer combinations in the manual.

Is that a less preferable solution to changing out or "restretching" the rear springs?

thanks

alec
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84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k
87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k
00 Klepper Faltboot Expedition Double
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2003, 01:35 PM
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Alec, the combinations of rubber spacers which the factory offers is truely mind boggling.... they seem to have one for every combination of accessories on the engine.. in order to level the car left to right....
However, if you put enough of them into the system to make up for overall height,,, or tried to correct front/rear problems... you would certainly be worse for the things springs are supposed to do because you have a weak spring and less travel....
Also playing into this is that you would have just as much work getting to the place to put those into the car as you would taking out the springs...
I think the new coil springs are only about $50 each from someone.. forgot who.... but once you have done this to an old car you will not hesitate the next time... it really makes them look and feel new....and if you already have them off for major front end work I consider this in the no brainer category... like throwout bearings when a clutch is replaced... etc....

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