Lower ball joints can be done without the MB tool - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

85chedeng300D · #31 04-11-2008, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil

After I got mine apart I had a local MB shop press in the new lower ball joints for $30 a side and they used the MB tool. I figure that was about the same as a Harbor Freight tool that I would have had to modify.

...but with the dealer in my part of town wants at least an hour minimum, and they charge $98.00/labor hour and they would not install any part that came outside of their parts department, lower ball joints costs $47.60 excluding tax....

85chedeng300D · #32 04-11-2008, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franklynb

Just thought I'd pass on a tip that worked well.

I just did this job on ball joints that had spent 30 years in midwestern brine.

Prior to removal, I "cored" a hole from the bottom in the ball joint receiver with my gas axe {oxy/acet torch}, which made it easy to knock the male portion of the old joint out from the bottom. One might also try drilling a fairly large hole, perhaps 1/2". BJ material is VERY hard, so plan on a lot of time to drill a hole big enough to put a substantial punch through.

Once the hole was cored, the stiffness of the ball joint female "ring" casting is MUCH less, and can be knocked out with a regular hammer and a few swift taps.

On the first one I tried, without heating, I hammered for AN HOUR with a 10 pound mallet and 1" rod; while I succeeded in mushrooming the head on the hardened steel punch, and peening the female casting so badly that the male portion would no longer rotate, that sucker NEVER moved out of its bore in the steering knuckle ... which forced me to look for a "better" option.

BEWARE: REMOVE THE GREASE BEFORE HEATING AS IT WILL EXPLODE! DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW. This is easily accomplished by cutting the retaining ring on the joint with a cutoff tool, which breaks the grease seal and allows room for heat expansion.

I am planning on starting the project tomorrow, and I was wondering if an air hammer will do the trick to drive the old ball joint out of the spindle? Has any body tried and has success with this approach?

Phil · #33 04-11-2008, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85chedeng300D

I am planning on starting the project tomorrow, and I was wondering if an air hammer will do the trick to drive the old ball joint out of the spindle? Has any body tried and has success with this approach?

I held a large socket against the bottom of the ball joint and gave it 3 hits with a mall hammer and it popped out.

Phil · #34 04-11-2008, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

same here..

we did one side with a homemade tool that was just like the MBZ tool, but it was not hardened steel or iron?

the other side I took in a spare spindle and had them press it in. The SA was like "how did you get here if your spindle is in your trunk"

my response," skillz sir... skillz"

I went to an independent MB shop. I did call the dealer when I started and they wanted some ridicules price to do this.

bodyart27 · #35 04-11-2008, 05:07 PM

Here is a write up I did - might help:

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)

85chedeng300D · #36 04-11-2008, 08:00 PM

Thanks for all the inputs, Gentlemen!!!

One quick question: What are the torque values of the ball joint lock nuts for: (1)upper control arm ball joint, and (2)lower control arm ball joint and the lock nuts for the (3)bracket that holds and attaches the rubber bushing of the sway/stabilizer bar to the firewall.
the bolts for the (4)bracket that attaches the tie rod to the spindle and the bolt that attaches the (5)uppercontrol arm to the wheel well.

Thanks again.