Hello! I found tonight that my left rear window won't go down. I can hear the motor whirring and it sounds like it's trying to engage the regulator teeth, but is not succeeding. Ever since I got the car, I had noticed that the window would try to jump if i held the switch down after the window got all the way up. It almost sounds like the motor's loose on the mount.

Does that sound right, or is the regulator dead? Given that the motor's turning, I presume it's fine.

Also, how do I get the door panel apart to tighten the motor or replace the regulator?

Thanks in advance!

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2001 VW Jetta TDI, 5 speed, daily driver
1991 Ford F-350, work in progress
1984 Ford F-250 4x4, 6.9l turbo diesel, 5 speed manual
Previous oilburners: 1980 IH Scout, 1984 E-350, 1985 M-B 300D, 1979 M-B 300SD, 1983 M-B 300D
Spark-free since 1999

Remove all of the door hardware, armrest, door puller trim, door latch trim, door lock post, etc..

Then working at a corner of the door you gently pull off the door panel. You will need to be very careful as the door panel is held in place by plastic pop clips that pop into the door. If you're not careful, then you can either break the pop clip or rip the pop clip out of the door panel. I find that pulling gently on either side of the clip and working my way around from clip to clip is the best approach.

Good luck,

JCD

Warden,

Ater you get all the door hardware off, you have to remove the window trim. There are 1 or 2 small screws you have to remove to do this. Also remove the locknob.

Then you have to lift up on the door panel and it will slide up and out. If you pull outwand on it, the plastic clips will break.

P E H

After all the screws are out, I start around the bottom of the panel with a putty knife to pop the snaps out. it is thin and wide enough to give leverage without tearing the panel. When it is all loose it has to go straight up first, then out. -andy

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andy t
'78 300d
'95 volvo 850, wagon
'86 300sdl - engine out, maybe I'll have it rolling by June

whole bunch o' bicycles

I purchased one of those panel removal tools. It looks like a crowbay but flat and thin with a handle. It's cheap and you wont brake any of the plastic snaps.

Usually what happens with the regulator is that the frame bends over time from the stress of operation. Eventually it will pull the gear out and away from the motor drive gear. When this happens, you get that dreaded bump-bump-bump noise, then it won't roll up all the way or comes down on its own. They are made fairly lightweight, I think out of aluminum or pot-metal. I guess that was a way of saving weight or a cost-cutting ploy.