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#31
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I'm with Aaron. There's a highly respected Inde near me that uses Agip exclusively. When asked about it, he'll respond "it's Ferrari oil" nuf said. Agip is fine oil, but really, as long as you change it every 3k, any oil will suffice.
These are the Oil Brands which are endorsed by some makers: Porsche (Shell) Mercedes AMG (Mobile 1) Ferrari-Maserati (Agip) Lamborghini (Agip) Not sure what the other high enders use.... |
#32
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Aaron,
That's fine! ![]() On a side note - did anyone else notice that mpnye has vanished, along with all his posts? I guess he finally got obnoxious enough to get banished from the forum? Hmmm. His profile claimed he was an MB tech for 30+ years, but some of his posts sure left me wondering about that! Oh well. ![]() Regards,
__________________
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies! Last edited by gsxr; 04-18-2003 at 01:48 PM. |
#33
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Quote:
Which old witch? The wicked witch! Ding dong, the wicked witch is dead! ![]()
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#34
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What grade of oil do you guys use? I noticed that most diesel oils, other than the 5W-40 Rotella, are 15W-40. However, my owner's manual recommends 10W-40 and apparently 15W-40 is too thick when it's cold outside. Thoughts?
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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual) Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL |
#35
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ROTFLMAO!!
Ding dong, the witch is dead!
OMG! Rick stop, you are killing me!! RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#36
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Diesel Addict, almost all true diesel-specific dino oils are 15W-40 which is fine for year-round use, except in very cold climates during the winter. Almost all diesel-specific synthetics will be 5W-40, which is fine year-round almost anywhere. I use Delvac-1 5W-40 synthetic, but Mobil-1 15W-50 is also excellent for year-round use, even in extremely cold climates, due to the very low pour point. BTW, your owner's manunal is recommending weights based on 20 year old oil technology. 'Tis better to use the latest MB spec sheets, which officially approve the 15W-50 and 0W-40 weights of Mobil-1 (although I personally wouldn't use the 0W-40 unless you live in the Arctic Circle.)
![]() ![]() Regards,
__________________
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies! |
#37
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gsxr, did the MB spec sheet mention the minimum temperature at which you can use 15W-50 or 15W-40? Where can I find this spec sheet?
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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual) Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL |
#38
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DieselAddict, I have a copy of the "Approved Service Products List". It shows that 15W-40/50 is good down to 5 degs f. Now with that said, my '83 TD's owner's manual says that this wieght is only good down to 23 degs. So even I have to question which one is correct. Is there that much of a difference between the 15W-40 of 1983 and today's 15W-40. This temp. chart does not specify if it's for dino or syn. oil. Some weights can't be had in dino oil, such as 0W-40. I use Delo 400 15W-40, every 3K, religously.
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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#39
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The cold temp lower limit is determined by if the car will start or not with oil that thick; and also how well the oil flows when cold (before oil & coolant temps come up to normal). With dino 15W-40, you may have trouble starting below 0F without a block heater or other external assistance. However, with synthetic (any weight, including 15W-50) this should not be a problem at all. Mobil's spec sheet for 15W-50 shows it pours easily down to something like -50F, I believe.
I know a few skeptical folks put a quart of their favorite dino & a quart of Mobil-1 15W-50 in their freezer overnight. Next day they tried to pour both... and promptly switched to using Mobil-1 after seeing the results first hand! ![]() Regards,
__________________
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies! |
#40
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Weird - he only vanished from this thread. The wicked witch lives...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/mpnye.html?action=getinfo
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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies! |
#41
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gsxr,
Sorry for the confusion. I thought you were remarking to my use of their products because of wide race sponsorship in Europe. To those others asking questions: 15W-40 is generally the diesel specific weight of oil but odd how MB says 10W-40 and 10W-50 are recommended for the widest temperature ranges. I use 10W-40 in all of my cars except the TR6 gets Agip 20W-50, the 380SE and ML320 both get Agip full synthetic 5W-40.
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Regards, Aaron |
#42
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Aaron, I too find it odd that MB recommends 10W-40 for diesels, when 10W-40 is not a diesel rated oil. Never heard of 10W-50. With that said, my father's mechanic routinely puts 10W-40 in my father's car. He has 310,000 miles on his '85 300D.
__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#43
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gsxr, why is it that a synthetic oil may flow better at cold temperatures, but has the same weight rating as a regular oil? The way I understand it, the first number indicates how well it flows cold and the second number indicates how well it flows at operating temperature.
Rick, it appears to me that MB doesn't require the use of diesel-rated oils in their diesels. I found a website with all the latest MB-approved oils and while they recommend diesel-rated oils for long drain intervals, it appears it's ok to use gasoline-rated oils as long as you change them more frequently, i.e. follow regular drain intervals. I've been using 10W-40 gasoline oils in my car since I bought it last summer with no ill effects and in fact my oil is no longer totally black as it used to be even after several hundred miles because I change it every 2000 miles and do lots of flushing at every oil change. It wasn't until recently that I learned about diesel-rated oils and there's no doubt in my mind they're better, especially if the oil isn't changed frequently, but I don't think they're necessary. By the way, is there anything wrong with using a Fram oil filter? It's about the same price as the Hengst and other brands, and the new design that Fram has looks pretty much identical, at least from pictures.
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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual) Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL |
#44
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Quote:
FWIW, I don't live in a cold climate, and have been using Delo (partially 'cause I'm scared of synthetics due to what has been said is an old wives tale, partially 'cause synthetics cost a bloody fortune, and partially 'cause I already use Delo in the truck) and filters straight from the dealer, and haven't noticed any problems...I haven't pulled the valve cover, but the part of the cam I can see from the oil filler cap looks happy. ![]()
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2001 VW Jetta TDI, 5 speed, daily driver 1991 Ford F-350, work in progress 1984 Ford F-250 4x4, 6.9l turbo diesel, 5 speed manual Previous oilburners: 1980 IH Scout, 1984 E-350, 1985 M-B 300D, 1979 M-B 300SD, 1983 M-B 300D Spark-free since 1999 |
#45
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Rick,
Actually that's a common misconception. The multi-weight oils are more like a single weight that acts differently at different temps - sort of. For example, a 5W-40 is an oil that flows like a straight 5-weight when cold, yet protects as good as a straight 40-weight when hot. It does NOT get thicker as it gets hot, it just doesn't thin out like a straight 5W would - it thins out roughly as much as a straight 40W would. Or something like that. As to the better flow characterisitics, that's just they way synthetic is - that's one of the many benefits. Not sure what the technical explanation is. ![]() Also, I believe MB *does* require the use of diesel-rated oil in their diesel engines. It's somewhere in the fine print, I just don't recall offhand where that is. Regardless, Sx-rated oils simply cannot suspend soot properly and absolutely should NOT be used unless it's an emergency, and I wouldn't leave it in for any longer than necessary (change early if necessary). Although there may not be anything "wrong" with a Fram filter, there has been enough doubt (from testing) about the Fram kwality that I would never use a Fram again in any of my cars. Order filters in bulk from FastLane or Rusty, and specify Hengst, Mann, or Knecht. They don't cost any more and they are OE quality - can't get better than that. I stock up on oil, air, fuel, and power steering filters & buy a few of each (as needed) to offset the shipping costs (why pay $7 for one filter plus $7 S&H...?) Regards,
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