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  #1  
Old 04-17-2003, 12:19 AM
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What is the best way get to the drain plug of torque convertor?

I am planning on changing the transmission fluid on my 1985 300D Turbo.
What is the easiest way get to the the torque convertor drain plug?
How do you turn the engine? Some body on the discussion board suggests using a big screw driver plying the drain plug to the access window. Is it safe to do that?

Thank you

Steve

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  #2  
Old 04-17-2003, 12:47 AM
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I know some people and I think the Haynes manual talk about using the screwdriver. I would not do that.
Use a 27m socket on the crank shaft bolt. Turn the engine clockwise as you are facing the engine from the front of the car.
You can fit a socket, ratchet and the correct lenght extension into the crank bolt from below. Just between the fan shroud and the crank shaft bell housing It has to be the right lenght extension to do this. I don't know what lenght extension that is because I cut some 3/8 square steel stock to the size I need.
You can get under the car, once it is jacked up and placed on jack stands. Turn the crank shaft slightly, look at the torque converter. turn it some more and keep checking until it is visible. Am assistant woulld be helpful.
To remove the drain plug it is a 5 mm allen wrench. The same for the transmission drain plug. Caution. Be carefull undoing the drain plug. You can strip the allen section and then it will not come out. Put some torque on it but don't put to much muscle into it. If it does not want to budge here are 2 recommendations.
1. the transmission fluid should be warm. Have you driven the car to warm it up? Fluid will be hot but the drain will come out easier if the assembly is warm.
2. If you want to do it cold apply a torch to the drain plug for a few seconds to warm it up. That will help release the drain plug. Don't ask how I know. New washers on both drains and the correct amount of fluid should have you going.

This is a great site. Thomas has not done a tranny fluid change yet.



Dave
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2003, 12:52 AM
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You can also use a bump starter to bring it around. They are cheap and available at any auto parts conglomerate.
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  #4  
Old 04-17-2003, 01:18 AM
sokoloff
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I've used the screwdriver method. It was very easy to turn. I saw little chance of doing any damage. Plus the bonus is you are under there looking at it and can see when the drain plug comes into view. No need to crawl in and out while turning the engine.

Len
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  #5  
Old 04-17-2003, 01:56 AM
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I just did this on my 123 last weekend. You need a 27 mm socket and a 3" extension to turn the engine , it's easy to see the drain plug coming around, but if you don't have those tools a bump starter would be cheaper to buy. I jacked the car up as high as I could and placed jack stands at all four corners. On my tranny the torque convertor plug was 5 mm allen key and the pan drain was 19 mm. The filter kit should include 3 washers , 2 for the pan drain,1 for the torque convertor.Once the pan is off, let it drain for a while so it's not dripping when you put the pan back on.Clean the gasket surface on the tranny so that it's spotless and then wipe the surface with a strong degreaser, I used some Q-tips dipped in Brake-Kleen. Lock-tite the four 13 mm pan bolts and torque them to 10-15 ft-lbs. If there is any oil between the gasket and the tranny , it will leak !! The crush washers are a little more forgiving, if it leaks, you can usually tighten it up a little more. Good luck.
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Old 04-17-2003, 05:54 PM
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When draining the converter, loosen the banjo bolts on the metal oil cooler lines where they enter the transmission. This lets the converter drain smoothly. If you don't - you'll have a HUGE mess as there is no air intake, and the oil will "glug" out and spray everywhere. Don't ask how I know this....

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Old 04-17-2003, 08:17 PM
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Perhaps I've been lucky, but I just bump the starter once or twice and presto.....there is the bolt.

Don
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2003, 03:07 AM
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Good tip , Dave....otherwise it would be very,very messy . Kitty litter does a good job absorbing tranny fluid , don't ask me how I know this
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2003, 10:56 AM
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Use a remote starter

As you are under the car trying to find the wretched torque converter drain plug (get a replacement crush washer for this little guy first and do make sure your hex socket goes all the way in - or you will mess up the hex and be really stuck) I find it easiest to use a remote starter.

Here's the remote starter connections on the 1983 300SD - I seem to recall that W123 cars are similar. The starter (nothing more than a shorting switch on a long cable) is a few dollars at any good automotive parts store.

You need a really good connection - cut off the clip-on ends and crimp on some heavy duty spade connectors. Blip the starter button briefly as you lie under the car - you don't want the engine starting!

Dave's method is every bit as good but can be rough on the back and is a little more effort. As my assistant is canine and prefers to limit his involvement to review and inspection, I go the remote starter route.

I would counsel against the use of a screwdriver to turn the high compression diesel engine, unless you want to risk breaking fins on the torque converter cage. Plus, the remote starter can be used for power steering fluid changes as I illustrate.

I'll post the tranny job soon - feel like getting some Dexron in my hair again.
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2003, 12:33 PM
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Thank you everybody for your invaluable suggestions.

Thomaspin, your web site's MBZ informations are really good. Pictures are worth thousand words. I have book-marked your web site.

In the mean time, I still have some questions:
(1) If I am using remote start mechanisim, how do you stop the engine if the engine accidently got started running. This could be very dangerous, that's why I want to be ready for it.

(2) By turning the bolt in front of the power steeling, will it turn the engine. If it does, I will have an assistant doing that while I am looking for the drain plug.

Thank you

Steve
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  #11  
Old 04-18-2003, 12:56 PM
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Do the torque converter drain first

If you locate the TC drain plug first - with the tranny still full of ATF and the pan in place - you run no risk of damage to the tranny should the engine accidentally start. If it starts, shut it off with the shut off lever on the injection pump - marked 'Stop' in red (see pix on my site if your Stop label has worn off), or remove the breather tube from the valve cover to the air filter housing at the air filter housing and cover the end with your hand. This will starve the engine of air and shut it down. Interrupting the fuel supply is ineffective - the engine can idle quite a while this way.

Keep your body parts away from any rotating machinery. Ask yourself BEFORE getting under the car to blip the engine how you will get out in the event the engine starts.

I prefer to drain the TC with a cold engine when using the remote starter. While the ATF drains more slowly, the risk of accidentally starting a cold diesel when you are just blipping the remote starter is low. Cold diesels do not like to start with cold glow plugs, and the remote starter will not warm up your glow plugs.
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2003, 01:17 PM
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When I drained mine last year I got lucky and the plug was right there looking at me, didn't have to do anything. I think that's the best way!
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  #13  
Old 04-18-2003, 05:38 PM
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YES! USE THE steering pump pulley. Its easy, doesnt require a huge wrence, etc.
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  #14  
Old 04-18-2003, 06:16 PM
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The p/s pump pulley bolt works great on cars with an OM61x engine. Unfortunately, cars with serpentine belts (OM60x engines) have 3 pulley bolts that are off-center, so you can't do that. For those cars (like my '87 300D) you must use the crankshaft bolt, which is a 27mm - works great. We can't all be as lucky as Wasuchi!
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  #15  
Old 07-01-2005, 08:10 PM
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My 5mm allen head wrench for the automatic tranny drain plug wiggles a bit too much for my comfort. I REALLY need to change the fluid/filter/gasket, but I'm worried about stripping it out. Any suggestions?

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