Bogdan,

The ALDA is not going to alter boost. Increasing boost is done (under the assumption that the turbo and its connections are all operating correctly) by adjusting the wastegate on the turbo.

On the KKK turbos, it's suppose to be pretty easy to do. On the Garret turbo, it's suppose to be a PITA.

If I find, after installing the gauge, that my boost is low, I plan on installing a Dawes device to my Garret. It allows for quick and easy adjustment of boost.

__________________
Chris
1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.)
2018 Honda Civic Sport
2018 Honda CRV LX
2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP)
2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold)
1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired)
1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired)
1976 Porsche 914 (Sold)
1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP)

jhal,

Do a search for "intercooler" on diesel forum, there are pictures there of a boost gage mounted in the left, center dash air outlet. The air still flows around it and it's adjustable to suit the driver's position. Depending on the gage attaching hardware, you might have to alter the back of the swivel mechanism a little.

Ben

__________________
www.reproduce100s.com

CK 42
I NOW A.L.D.A. does not raise the boost and i now my english it is not very good so i will post again my question: if i raise the boost through the Dawes device from 10 psi to 13 psi, do i have to adjust ALDA ALSO FOR THE NEW SETING?
thank you guys

Bogdan,

First, I never criticize ANYONE for a lack of abilty to speak the English language English is seriously screwed-up....and besides, if I can't speak a second language, then I have no room to criticize anyone else.


Now then...it IS possible that you may need to adjust the ALDA after increasing the boost on the turbo. It all depends on how your ALDA is currently set. If it's set correctly for the 10PSI it's currently running at, then yes, increasing fuel to deal with the increased boost would help. But, if your ALDA has already been *messed with* like most of ours have, then it might not be necessary.

__________________
Chris
1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.)
2018 Honda Civic Sport
2018 Honda CRV LX
2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP)
2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold)
1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired)
1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired)
1976 Porsche 914 (Sold)
1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP)

Bogdan,
I just want to know where you found the A-pillar gauge mount for a 123MB??? RT

__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

CK42 & jhal:

DO NOT BUY THE VDO GAUGE! I'm on my second now. the first one developed a really bad rattle, and thinking that I just got a defective one, I bought a second. Same thing. They look good, and match the other gauges in the car, but stay away!

Alex

__________________
1983 300D (parked for four years)
2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual
2001 Miata SE
1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside

I've increased the turbo boost by adjusting the wastegate spring and did not make any changes at the ALDA. Can't really say I had anything to compare it to but you can definitely feel the turbo start working.

__________________
Jim

For ck 42
I was not upset for your answer , i now my english it is not good because my mind it is set to speak gramatical in two diferent languages beside english but i troy to adapt to english gramatic and way of puting the words to make sense in conversation
Now about my pilar pod i adapt one from the Honda type car which has wider botom opening and smaller up opening then by aplying heat from a heat gun i molded almost to the pilar
I have to advise in one mather : IN THAT PILAR WE HAVE THE DRAINAGE HOSES FROM THE SUN ROOF SO PLEASE BE CAREFULI WHEN YOU MAKE THE HOLE i kind of have been luky with mine
Today i observed the presure does not show at all on the instrument and i believed it is my seting but logic kick in and i find out my intake plastic hose at the banjo fiting it was totaly clogt ,so my point is, whit out the instrument i will have no way to discover that at the moment notice

A gauge hooked to a T in the line from the switchover valve to the ALDA capsule will help you determine whether there might be an obstruction in the switchover valve or in the lines leading to the switchover valve. If you hook the gauge to the manifold and then get a plugged switchover valve, you might have good boost in the manifold but the ALDA capsule won't know it and won't tell the injection pump to pour on more fuel.

Does that make sense? I am just now studying this boost issue for the first time.

On your wife pushing you to get the Mazda, that is exactly how my wife wound up with a Subaru Impreza, and there is nothing wrong with that.

....sure, if the banjo fitting itself is plugged. otherwise, if the obstruction is elsewhere along the several feet of tubing leading to the injection pump - the guage won't display the diminished pressure to the alda.
I do like the Mazda quite a bit, by the way. You should have insisted that the Impreza be the WRX!

My pod was for a Ford Mustang. I belive 88-93 , used a VDO black
get 9 lbs of boost. I'll find out this week my friend installed it. Looks almost factory!

I use one that IS factory.(and stealth!)

1. Take an old fuel/temp/ oil pressure/economy gauge section from a GASSER 126 and transplant it into the 126 diesel instrument panel!
2. Remove needle from economy gauge (remove STRAIGHT up).
3. Replace needle on the ultra thin gauge shaft from where it came, but place it with the needle pointing at ~10:00 o'clock position.
4. Rotate the needle CC and lift/ bend it over the left side stop pin.
5. What used to be the economy gauge (Bourbon type vacuum gauge) is now a boost gauge (Bourbon type pressure gauge).
6. Attach with appropriate hose to "T" in boost line or to the empty intake manifold fitting.
7. I attached the hose to an aquarium gang valve in the boost line to the overboost protection switch so that I could rig a parallel hose and shop gauge temporarily into the cabin in order to calibrate (by moving the indicating needle on the shaft of the former economy gauge).
8. Full travel (left to right) is ~16 psi after calibrating. (I run ~14psi full out uphill). FWIW

__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

That is way smart!

Do you have to use a gasser gauge from a same year car or are all the W126 years the same in this regard? I'm thinking about all the connectors on the back.

Also, I have a KKK turbo on my 1983 300SD - the archives seem to suggest that boost adjustment is much easier than on the Garrett - any thoughts? I assume I run my vac gauge connected in series with the vac line from the manifold to the overboost switch-over valve when setting it up?

I think that connection would be in parallel, wouldn't it? Also, it seems to me that the best place to connect a boost gauge is between the switchover valve and the ALDA. The following is a verbatim quote from a Mercedes technical service bulletin:

07.1-85011 Poor Engine Performance Engines 617.95 Revised 10/85 1/85

Cause:
Low boost pressure at the boost pressure aneroid caused by soot-in the switch-over valve, boost pressure lines and hollow screws on intake manifold or boost pressure aneroid.

Remedy:
Check, clean or replace parts as required.

Always check boost pressure directly at boost pressure aneroid or at the boost pressure line just behind switch-over valve. If necessary, bypass switchover valve and repeat test.

That makes sense - between the switchover valve and the ALDA - guess you see what the ALDA is seeing that way.

As for parallel or series, I guess I just interpose a T-connector in that line and run the third leg to the gauge, no?