Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-09-2003, 09:57 PM
Holson Adi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 2,561
Question Shock Absorber installation (Bilstein Comforts)

I have recently installed two new Bilstein comforts for the front suspension of my 300CD.

The shocks came w/ one nut w/ some nylon locking stuff in it.

It also came with two large metal washers.

The instruction calls for one washer between the top nut and the rubber bushing. After that it's the frame then it's the shock absorber assembly (rubber dust cover then rubber bushing and some metal sleeve and then it's the shock itself)

What I don't get is why did it come w/ two metal washers? Where is the other one supposed to go?

Also how tight should the top nut be? I tightened it all the way down but my mechanic looked at it and told me I should back it out...

Thanks
-Holson-
__________________
2008 BMW 335i Coupe

Last edited by Holson Adi; 06-09-2003 at 10:06 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-09-2003, 10:30 PM
Holson Adi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 2,561
here's a drawing of how I understood the parts are to be installed....

i feel a little dumb that I didn't think harder when I realized that I didn't know where the other washer was supposed to go..
Attached Thumbnails
Shock Absorber installation (Bilstein Comforts)-untitled-1-copy.gif  
__________________
2008 BMW 335i Coupe
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-09-2003, 10:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Correct position for the two nuts is for about 1-1/5 threads to show above the top nut. Any tighter, and you are compressing all the softness out of the rubber. This will make the ride significantly harder and noiser without adding any handling. Common error, it was pointed out to me under the same conditions.....

In applications were there is no lower tube, the second washer goes under the lower rubber buffer. It fits over the threaded portion of the rod, but sits on the shoulder.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-09-2003, 10:50 PM
Holson Adi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 2,561
oh allright, that makes sense.

Because the lower tube itself looks like the washer at the top. I'll loosen the top nut then.

Thanks
__________________
2008 BMW 335i Coupe
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-10-2003, 12:03 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
You will have to lock the two nuts together firmly, or they will back off from the low tension on the buffers. If you tighten enough for them to stay on by them selves (not locked together), they are too tight.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-10-2003, 12:07 AM
Holson Adi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 2,561
My shock absorber came with only one nut though and no lock nut.

I tried reusing the lock nut from the KYB's but those KYB's had a smaller shaft and thus the nuts can't be used.

I thought the nylon-lock nut was sufficient by itself?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-10-2003, 12:14 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Wakefield, RI
Posts: 2,145
Nylock nuts won't back off. I have built hovercraft and used plenty of nylocks on them as they vibrate more viciously than any Harley. One is plenty. RT

Oh yeah, how do you like the Bilsteins?
__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-10-2003, 12:21 AM
Holson Adi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 2,561
I *think* the ride is better. However due to another problem (a LOUD squeal from the left rear wheel when stopping and moving after stopping), I really haven't paid much attention to how the bilsteins affected the ride.

The front of the car now feels softer than before and more alive. Previously it felt dead as if the shocks were almost solid.

When I took one of the KYB's out one of them compressed so easily and didn't return back while the other one was more stubborn.

I guess I'll just back out the nuts until the rubber and washer are tight and until the rubber bushing's compressed a little.
__________________
2008 BMW 335i Coupe
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-10-2003, 07:32 AM
The Safety Geek
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Sudbury, Massachusetts
Posts: 254
Additionally, you'll want to flip the top washer over...the flange should be facing down, towards the rubber bushing (like an upside-down saucer).
__________________
1995 E320 40K
1999 Tahoe 115,000K
2002 JX8 Sport 43K
2005 Volvo s40 95K
2006 Isuzu NPR 304K
2007 Crown Victoria 150K
2014 Smart Electric 10K
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-10-2003, 04:04 PM
Zoonhollis's Avatar
Diesel Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 551
Antony:

Whaaa? Are you sure? The illustration that accompanied my shocks indicated that the flange pointed skyward. Additionally, the old washer was similarly oriented. If you know something we don't...
__________________
Matt
------
1995 E300 Diesel (Die Blau Frau)
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-10-2003, 07:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
The proper position for the nylock nut is where the lower nut would be -- you want just about enough thread to show that you could screw another nut on, minus the space used by the lock ring. You will compress the rubber some, but dont go too far.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-11-2003, 06:51 PM
Holson Adi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 2,561
Loosened the nut a little now it looks more correct.

OT: On the test drive my steering felt really funny.Upon coming back, I realized I had a flat! Apparently the valve stem was leaking (these are new wheels from Tire Rack)

Anyway, the instruction (diagram) that came w/ the shocks showed that the upper plate is to be mounted so that flange opens up.

and that REALLY loud squeal came from messed up parking brake parts in the left rear drum. Both sides' shoes were worn out rusty and on the left one the spring had snapped!

now the diesel's quiet and solid as ever!

but seriously.. when it rains it pours. I hope nothing else happens to the CD this week..
__________________
2008 BMW 335i Coupe
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page