Shock Absorber installation (Bilstein Comforts) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Holson Adi · #1 06-09-2003, 09:57 PM

I have recently installed two new Bilstein comforts for the front suspension of my 300CD.

The shocks came w/ one nut w/ some nylon locking stuff in it.

It also came with two large metal washers.

The instruction calls for one washer between the top nut and the rubber bushing. After that it's the frame then it's the shock absorber assembly (rubber dust cover then rubber bushing and some metal sleeve and then it's the shock itself)

What I don't get is why did it come w/ two metal washers? Where is the other one supposed to go?

Also how tight should the top nut be? I tightened it all the way down but my mechanic looked at it and told me I should back it out...

Thanks
-Holson-

Holson Adi · #2 06-09-2003, 10:30 PM

here's a drawing of how I understood the parts are to be installed....

i feel a little dumb that I didn't think harder when I realized that I didn't know where the other washer was supposed to go..

psfred · #3 06-09-2003, 10:34 PM

Correct position for the two nuts is for about 1-1/5 threads to show above the top nut. Any tighter, and you are compressing all the softness out of the rubber. This will make the ride significantly harder and noiser without adding any handling. Common error, it was pointed out to me under the same conditions.....

In applications were there is no lower tube, the second washer goes under the lower rubber buffer. It fits over the threaded portion of the rod, but sits on the shoulder.

Peter

Holson Adi · #4 06-09-2003, 10:50 PM

oh allright, that makes sense.

Because the lower tube itself looks like the washer at the top. I'll loosen the top nut then.

Thanks

psfred · #5 06-10-2003, 12:03 AM

You will have to lock the two nuts together firmly, or they will back off from the low tension on the buffers. If you tighten enough for them to stay on by them selves (not locked together), they are too tight.

Peter

Holson Adi · #6 06-10-2003, 12:07 AM

My shock absorber came with only one nut though and no lock nut.

I tried reusing the lock nut from the KYB's but those KYB's had a smaller shaft and thus the nuts can't be used.

I thought the nylon-lock nut was sufficient by itself?

rwthomas1 · #7 06-10-2003, 12:14 AM

Nylock nuts won't back off. I have built hovercraft and used plenty of nylocks on them as they vibrate more viciously than any Harley. One is plenty. RT

Oh yeah, how do you like the Bilsteins?

Holson Adi · #8 06-10-2003, 12:21 AM

I *think* the ride is better. However due to another problem (a LOUD squeal from the left rear wheel when stopping and moving after stopping), I really haven't paid much attention to how the bilsteins affected the ride.

The front of the car now feels softer than before and more alive. Previously it felt dead as if the shocks were almost solid.

When I took one of the KYB's out one of them compressed so easily and didn't return back while the other one was more stubborn.

I guess I'll just back out the nuts until the rubber and washer are tight and until the rubber bushing's compressed a little.

Antony · #9 06-10-2003, 07:32 AM

Additionally, you'll want to flip the top washer over...the flange should be facing down, towards the rubber bushing (like an upside-down saucer).

Zoonhollis · #10 06-10-2003, 04:04 PM

Antony:

Whaaa? Are you sure? The illustration that accompanied my shocks indicated that the flange pointed skyward. Additionally, the old washer was similarly oriented. If you know something we don't...

psfred · #11 06-10-2003, 07:32 PM

The proper position for the nylock nut is where the lower nut would be -- you want just about enough thread to show that you could screw another nut on, minus the space used by the lock ring. You will compress the rubber some, but dont go too far.

Peter

Holson Adi · #12 06-11-2003, 06:51 PM

Loosened the nut a little now it looks more correct.

OT: On the test drive my steering felt really funny.Upon coming back, I realized I had a flat!

Apparently the valve stem was leaking (these are new wheels from Tire Rack)

Anyway, the instruction (diagram) that came w/ the shocks showed that the upper plate is to be mounted so that flange opens up.

and that REALLY loud squeal came from messed up parking brake parts in the left rear drum. Both sides' shoes were worn out rusty and on the left one the spring had snapped!

now the diesel's quiet and solid as ever!

but seriously.. when it rains it pours. I hope nothing else happens to the CD this week..