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  #1  
Old 06-19-2003, 09:52 AM
Steve019
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Fast Glow upgrade

I ordered a fast glow upgrade kit awhile back. I got 5 plugs, a relay box and cables. The instructions call for an additional relay and are somewhat vague. Does anyone have experience with this kit? I hope to upgrade before fall.

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  #2  
Old 06-20-2003, 11:22 PM
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Steve019


I got a couple of these kits for cars with the loop style plugs and I just installed the new series plugs and used them with the existing relay. just glow for 10 seconds or so. You should change to the 80 amp fuse although i did not and have not blown the 50 ampe one. the series GPs are a BIG improvment, just put em in and go for it
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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Old 06-21-2003, 03:05 AM
Steve019
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Thanks Stevo,

But I have the 5 cylinder engine and that requires an extra relay and minor mods. I am having trouble locating the relay and a sutable wiring diagram.

Did the new style plugs work better in winter?
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  #4  
Old 06-21-2003, 09:43 AM
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Stevo,

I believe you have you terminology wrong on the old and new style GP.

The older loop style GP were the SERIES type where the voltage was dropped to about 1.5 volts to each plug by the plugs themselves, the resistance wires connecting them and the dash indicator. If one series GP got an open circuit (burned out), none of the GP worked and if the engine was cold, might not start.

The newer pencil style GP are PARALLEL type and have ~12 volts applied to each one. If one parallel GP gets an open circuit, the other GP still work and usually start the engine with a missfire on one cylinder for a short time.

I have modified 190D engines that had series GP to work with newer parallel GP by making an adapter bushing. The only wiring changes I did was to replace the resistance (glow) wire in the dash indicator with copper wire, remove the resistance box and use copper wire to connect from plug to plug so there would no voltage drop to the new parallel plugs. I just had to estimate how long to glow the new parallel plugs. But this time was about 1/4 the time I had to wait for the old series plugs to get hot.

P E H
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  #5  
Old 06-21-2003, 10:17 AM
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Steve019

As PEH mentioned you will have to get rid of the old resistance wires connecting the old plugs AND the copper ground strap, connect the new plugs with the new wires (you should replace the old 50 amp fuse with a 80 amper also) and fire it up using the old relay. This is assuming your new plugs are 18mm. I could never find adapters as PEH referred to but you can get the series plugs in 18mm. Both kits I got included 18mm plugs. If they dont fit in the hole you will have to send them back or find the adapters as after "79' the GPs were 12mm.
These series made a HUGE difference in how my daughters car started in winter. I did not change the relay in her car and in my wifes 240D I use a push button and solenoid , which takes the place of the stock relay. One less thing to go wrong You will really like the new plug sustem
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #6  
Old 06-21-2003, 11:15 AM
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Stevo,

You are still calling the new GP, "series" plugs. They are PARALLEL GP.

I made the adapters myself. I used the 18mm loop style plugs, bored them out and tapped 12mm threads in them. Hardest part was removing the porceline, that stuff is hard and tough. Even carbide tooling had a hard time cutting it. Steel tools won't touch it.

P E H
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2003, 11:24 AM
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PEH

OOPs I am having post rebuild stress I spoz Actually I havent had to think about GPs since I went to the new system, they just keep working.

Steve

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