When I replace the starter in my 300D, will I need to:

Remove the motor mount bolts and lift the engine?

Drop the transmission mount?

Remove the drag link and pitman arm?

There doesn't look to be enough clearance to just slip it out from the bottom. I want to be sure to allow enough time to do the job.

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Bill <><

Bill:

Remove the battery cable and starter wire from the front top. Remove both spash pans from underneath -- get new screws and clips to replace any clips that fall out (if they fall out, they won't stay in after you put the shield back up).

You will need to jack the car up, at least on the driver's side.

Starter is held on by two hex head bolts from the rear, 19mm if I remember correctly, may be 17 mm.

Bottom bolt is no problem, top is hard to reach if you don't have a lift. Took two of us to get the top bolt loose, me holding the socket on and my brother using his foot on a 3 ft breaker bar, the bolt was sorta stuck.

Starter slides right out the bottom, very easy.

New starter may not have the same starter wire connection, mine came with a new connector, had to cut the old one off and crimp the new one on.

This was just about the fastest starter replacement I've ever done, once we got the stuck bolt loose. Faster than the Volvo or a Ford.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks.
My splash pans were missing when I bought the car. Having them gone does make it easier to work on.

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Bill <><