|
|
|
|
|
#1
09-11-2003, 01:30 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Cold weather + transmissions = ?
Well the nights are starting to get a little cooler and I am starting to notice the trans acting up again. It was great all summer. What does this symptom point to and what should i do to prepare for colder days ahead?
|
|
#2
09-11-2003, 02:38 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
What do you mean by act up? For instance, it is designed into the trans on my 77 300d to shift at higher rpm's when cold. (I believe)
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
|
|
#4
09-11-2003, 03:55 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Delay of shifting is supposed to happen. Slipping no. Do a search on 'flaring'.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
|
|
#5
09-11-2003, 10:08 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I had a tranny tech earlier in the year tell me that my flaring (while cold only) has a seal issue in the modulator. When warm, the seal is good.
I have yet to validate this. My trans flares on the first shift (2nd - 3rd) only at an engine temp of < 40 deg. I would like to fix this as I sold the 190D to a friend yesterday and I don't want him to have any trouble with this or complain later. (Although I told him of the problem before he wrote the check)
__________________
Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) 
Last edited by mplafleur; 09-12-2003 at 12:27 PM.
|
|
#6
09-11-2003, 11:01 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
My 380sel does this too. It is quite annoying. It even does it during the summer (in arkansas
 ) until it is warm, but NOTHING like it does in winter.
__________________
http://comp.uark.edu/~dmgill/signature.jpg
|
|
#8
09-12-2003, 07:11 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I'll call to Georgia today and try to talk to that tech for more clarification. I notice there is a seal as well as the modulator body available. (Performace Products catalog)
__________________
Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)
|
|
#9
09-12-2003, 07:15 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I completely eliminated a 3-4 shift flaring problem on the 1982 300D by changing the fluid and filter - using synthetic transmission fluid. Synthetic ATF has better cold flowing characteristics, and it probably helps clean up sticky varnish in the valve body too.
It might have been a special case for me, but I'd recommend synthetic ATF as a cheap attempt for a fix - expecially if you have a problem cold that goes away after warm-up. Ken300D
__________________
-------------------------- 1982 300D at 351K miles 1984 300SD at 217K miles 1987 300D at 370K miles
|
|
#10
09-12-2003, 07:56 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Dang, Ken300D beat me to it....
This would be a great time to slap one or two quarts of Trans-X into your trans ( follow the label... but my wagon called for two quarts due to the amount of fluid ) and drive it a couple of hundred miles before changing out the fluid and filter... The holes and small bearings which control the hydraulic fluid flow are very small... so any restriction due to varnish build up slows the action of all things related to hydraulic pressure and movement... thus if it is on the verge of being restricted.... and the fluid is then colder.. the restriction immediately shows up... You can do a search about others who have had good results with the Trans-X..... This is a logical and CHEAP attempt to fix the symptoms which you describe which has a very good chance of working... and not much lost if it does not.... ( maybe $20) at most....
|
|
#11
09-12-2003, 09:28 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I am going to try the trans-X. A couple of questions. You mentioned draining the trahs after a period of time. After that I want to put in synthetic trans fluid. Am i supposed to drain the Torque Converter since I have not used synthetic oil as of yrt and If I have to drain the TC how do i do it?
|
|
#12
09-12-2003, 10:34 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
If you have a torque converter drain capability then you should drain it when changing out the fluid.... some newer cars don't have that option... but you leave too much old fluid in there if you can but don't drain.
I describe it that way because most people are having problems when I tell them about the Trans-X... thus I believe in dissolving the varnish, then removing it from the area by pulling the plug...and changing the filter.....this is the same as my feelings about oil changes... But I do not think the Trans-X directions require it to be removed... and if you use it as a leak sealer then perhaps it should be left in... or put in again when the new fluid is installed... I do not know anything about whether it is compatible with the synthetic fluid....
|
|
#13
09-13-2003, 05:21 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Two questions.
1) If I drain the TC will it fill up automatically or do I have to refill it before I use the car. 2) If I add Synthetic oil with non-synthetic oil still in the TC will the synthetic oil eventully mix and dilute the oil non-synthetic in there so that the next change will give me a better ratio?. What problems will that cause if any.
|
|
#14
09-13-2003, 09:07 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I do not know of any way except putting the new fluid into the normal opening on the top of the transmission and starting up the car ... this pumps fluid into the TC . As far as I know using the drain plug is the only manual way of affecting the TC's fluid level......
So this means on a total changeout that you need to not overfill the trans when replacing the fluid... start the car and let it run a few minutes and check the fluid level again... This procedure should be repeated until you have a stable and proper fluid indication on your dip stick. Be sure in the final stages to check to see if the temp should be at a certain level....some trans are checked cold , some at working temp... I do NOT recommend NOT draining the TC. Whether you are changing types of fluid or not you need the used fluid out and good fluid IN.
|
|
#15
09-13-2003, 08:50 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
The shop tech states it may be the rubber diaphram in the modulator. He does suggest that I replace it. $17-35 depending on the part. I think mine is the brown one. 126-270-9365 I think.
The fit is too close on the 201 chassis and I will have to drop the trans some. He also highly recommends tran-x or similar products. They can greatly lengthen the life of the transmission. BTW, the shop changed my filter and fluid not too long ago. In fact, it has been changed a couple of times in the last year.
__________________
Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)
Last edited by mplafleur; 09-15-2003 at 08:55 AM.
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
