Tomj
Chill out and RELAX!!

Well..., really sorry, but when something is COMMONLY called a "rack damper bolt"..
Is It? “Governor idle adjust pin” on the parts list and my Bosch service CD. Call it a “Hurdy Gurdy” if you want to but its function remains the same.

because it..., let's see, by your own definition DAMPENS THE RACK!!
No, your definition, not mine!

Furthermore, by your own def, it does NOTHING to effect idle…
Again, your words not mine - I said it “adjusts idle RPM – period”

so again, we see how accurate THEIR naming is ("Idle Adjust Pin").
Sounds fair enough to me…

Also, since it does absolutely nothing for idle (as you claim), I will run right out this very day and get my ears checked as every time I turned it in I notice (imagined of course) that the idle get's rougher and it lopes, smooths out when it's out far enough that it just touches the rack
Actually, the “rack damper bolt” is nowhere near the rack let alone touching it, almost 3 inches away at its closest point.
If, as you say, it “smooths out when it's out far enough that it just touches the rack “ why did you buy a new pin? You say yourself in a post above the new one made “Not one bit of diff.”

So, it's just my imagination that it smooths the idle and that it dampens the rack (hence "rack damper").
I think I’ll leave that too to your imagination.

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Beagle

I don't care what it's called, that's what everyone else calls it.

Actually, now that I've gotten the other running issues taken care of (most of the problems were just an air issue form having everything apart and not bleeding long enough), I've found it does little for RPM, per se, but does remove the "waivering" from the idle (hence the "smoothness").

Didn't make any difference when I still had air in the system. Once the leaks, air and bad diesel were purged, there's a different story. As far as buying a new pin, how in the hell would I know it would or would not "work" till I bought one and tried it? Everyone said it would smooth out the problem I had with idle (turns out most of which was caused by other factors).

Again, I did notice that it was able to remove the "waivering" or oscillating idle that the other pin could not quite do. So all in all, the $30 I'd have to say was not worth what it did, but I also have to say that it did more than the stock pin for smoothing the idle.

Again though, it did nothing for RPM, so maybe I need to play with the adjustment more to see if I can get the RPMs up (seems too low, even for a diesel)?

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

What I had to do to get rid of the my vibration/shaking:

Raise the Idle speed within the normal range (this helped some as it was around 700rpm)

I bought a new Rack Damper Bolt but it did not help much.

Rebuilt my Injectors with $16 each brand X Spray Nozzles (This took away most of the shaking)

Doing a Valve Adjustment (took away some more shaking)

Changed Motor and Transmission mounts (took away some more vibration)

Found that I had a small air leak that showed up when the Engine was hot due to hard fuel inlet lines that did not seal even with the clamps tight.

Finally was able to use the Rack Damper Bolt to tune out a little more shake. (I believe that, that bolt was made to reduce the shake on a new engine; not to compensate for a bunch of worn and out of spec parts).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel