Mine is purely time...

...if I don't know how to do something...I figure it out, ask a professional, or post here!

I just can't bring myself to spend so much money on an automobile...espically so early in my life when gaining financial stability...

Low cost is the name of the game...time is what I got plenty of (sometimes)

I did pay less for my 300D than I ended up with in doing the pump. Guess I have my priorities straight. No car payments, and low insurance compared to a new car, why not use the diffrence to make it more enjoyable. Besides all these hot Jettas around here were really starting to bother me. Not anymore.LOL
I do think that 200rwhp is doable without a intercooler, just not for an extended period of time. I am not pulling a trailer nor am I running road rallys or driving 100+mph so I don't need that power but for a few short second bursts and I am perfectly comfterable with high egt's for a few seconds. I have built diesel trcator pulling motors that exhibit egt's of over 2000 degrees for 20 seconds, haven't melted a piston or burned a valve yet but its all in the tuning. If I decided I wanted to keep it cooler I would probably go with water injection as it is more compact and I know how to build and set it up anyways. I have calculated that it would take between 24-26psi of boost to make 200rwhp with no intercooler. Anybody know if the headgasket on one of these can hold that much??? ALso what about a MLS(multi-layer-steel) gasket to put on if it won't. LOL I am making 130rwhp with stock wastegate settings running through the electric boost cut off device so I know I am not exceeding the what is it 15psi to shut the alda off?? Plus the newer turbos are far more effecient than this thing is so I would imagine I could probably make 20psi+ cooler than what the stock 12psi runs.

Oh yeah a good cooler would drop the necessary boost back to 16-18psi so for anything over 250 engine hp I would say a cooler would be a MUST have.

Trust me...I would LOVE to have a Myrna Diesel modified pump....I have a good engine I want to go through and would love to get it over 200 hp....if I have a job after our merger becomes final and we get our workload increaced and get a lot of OT I will have the money...

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Not to challenge your experinece but this is not a pulling tractor. Obviously the load varies on the street and the load can continue for a min. or more depending upon what you are doing, how far up a hill you are climbing, or even how hot it is outside...

For example, you can get VERY into the red zone of EGT's simply by going uphill in a high gear and rolling a little into the throttle. You don't have to exceed 100mph...you don't have to rally...a simple hill or oddly hot day can bring temps well into the red zone. I imagine you would run a pyrometer so you could monitor the numbers but don't be suprised if you find youself exceeding the "short burst" of hotness when driving around normally.

My EGT's get well above 1300F in many different instantances...I have sorta got the feel for when it will and when it won't but if I put it even MORE fuel...I have a feeling it would be a min by min issue. Espically if someone else had to drive your car...like in an emergency?

Just my thoughts...the less the driver has to watch/monitor/adjust for the better off any driver is going to be at not getting themselves into trouble.

Anymore fuel that I seem to be running with my stock pump and I think I would be pushing it as far as a daily driver and getting into the high temps in not obvious cases...so best case sceneario you will be too even more often

I just believe that there will be issues with determining when you are "using" that extra 80HP and when you aren't...just my thoughts

Don't worry I have a gauge I can watch. The only time I notice egt's going in the 1500deg zone is above 4000rpm at this time, but I am not making 200rwhp either. Cut weld, fabricate, monitor, redo, adjust, regroup, startover..... their all things I expect to have to do.LOL I am not building it for other peopl;e either fortunately so I don't worry about such things I am building it for ME!!

best reason in the world....just don't take any ill advised shortcuts.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Mauri H. busted the head on his first 603 project. I believe he was running the original IP cranked to the max with the original turbo, something like 180hp on an engine the factory intended to make 147hp.
You can probably read about it on the English forum at mersuforum.net

It seems that we get turbo lag if we run a big intercooler in front like the pickup trucks have, but the factory has already taken our engines to the maximum sustainable power levels, so it's intercool or limit it to short bursts.

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'79 300SD W116
'86 190E 2.3-16V W201
'92 300D 2.5 W124
'99 E320 4MATIC S210

I believe it was a friend of Mauri's that cracked the head. That happened because the guy maxed out the pump on a stock 603 with NO intercooler. I can only imagine what his peak EGT's were. There may be a little turbo lag, but I don't expect it to be that bad really.

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Bringing this biach back to life becuase I have a question that I want pondered and I bet if I posted it in a new thread I would be stoned (with big stones!)

I am putting together my air/water intercooler (putting tanks on it) and I am consdering what size WATER fittings I should run to the tanks.

I was thinking 3/4-1inch fittings and whatnot. My IC core is 11.5 by 6 (huge for water/air I know) with 2.5" and 3" air inlet/outlet. (probably use the 3" for inlet and the 2.5" for outlet?

Its some humongous AUDI core I found and I think it would be just peachy keen to use

Here is a picture of the aluminium core. I put it next to my other audi one for comparison.

And yes...thats me taking on the sin of tearing into my spare injection pump. Learning how that beast works.

Attached Thumbnails

       

I would think 3" in, 2.5" out, since the outgoing air will be more dense.
Antti A at Mynä Diesel seems willing to send me some 7mm elements, I'll know more when he returns from vacation. I don't know if they will fit in the 617's pump.

I'm thinking about buying a VNT from a 320 CDI, the Finns think it's good for 250hp or so. Would be nice to make a little cockpit adjustable boost controller for it. Might be fun to try a MPG test with the nozzle full closed and again full open to see if the boost helps mpg more than the backpressure hurts.

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'79 300SD W116
'86 190E 2.3-16V W201
'92 300D 2.5 W124
'99 E320 4MATIC S210

Dave,
Are the problems you refer to correctable or design flaws?
What are the flaws?
Does one of the earlier W124 diesels have a more robust Tranny?
(I already know about the B-2 piston and the "K" springs)

Thanks!

same message in pm

CI,

There's no real design flaw I know of in the 722.4. It's simply a smaller, weaker tranny, designed for use behind lower-powered engines. So, if you're jacking up the power levels, just be aware that the 722.4 may not be able to take the abuse long term.

Now, the 722.3 is the beefy 4-speed tranny. This was used in the 1987 300D behind the OM603 turbo. The same basic tranny was used in the SL600 behind the monstrous M120 V-12 engine (near 400hp). And, both the Finns and RENNtech have been able to put nearly 500hp (and lb-ft) through a 722.3 reliably. You'd need to get a 722.3 from a car with an engine similar to yours, and/or tune the valve body to work properly (WOT shift points, etc). If you have a 124.128 and are only going up 15-30% in power output, I wouldn't worry about it too much. But I don't think I'd want to try to push 300+hp through a 722.4.

Side note - I believe it's the torque, not horsepower, that really matters. The cutoff point seems to be somewhere around 175-190 lb-ft... below that, MB used a 722.4, above that they used the stronger 722.3.

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Brandon I would use at least 3/4" fittings and hoses. I am always amazed at just how much heat you can put into the water so fast in a high boost application. I would say though that it only needs to be as big as the smallest flow point in your system though so if you use a electric pump that only has 1/2" fittings it wouldn't make much sense to put 1" on your core. You will find you need a VERY high flow pump to get lots of flow to your cooler for maximum effectivness. I know I use a 8GPM on my truck cooler and it could use even more flow.

Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!!!

Obviously I am moving a LITTLE less air than your truck but regardless yes I dug out some 3/4" aircraft fittings and I am going to fab those onto my IC. Got the intake done today and thinking about starting a thread detailing the project and posting the pictures I have thus far.

I am still looking for a good pump..the only thing I have right now is a spare Aux. Heater pump off a w126 at the wrecking yard. I'll have to check out the flow.

Probably use a motorcycle radiator or something. Ideas?