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  #76  
Old 12-13-2004, 02:56 AM
Mauri H.'s Avatar
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Location: Finland
Posts: 38
Hi all,

Ok, i'll try to answer some of the questions, sorry if I forget some questions...

About new exhaus pipe, original is propably 2, 1/4 ", I made new one from 3.5 " stainless steel, here is some pictures:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/kolja1/Mersukuvat3/putki.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/kolja1/Mersukuvat3/vaimennin.jpg

Making one is not a big job, if you just have the tools and you can find the material.

IC should be regular Air - to - Air, it is the most simple one, and very effective too, I use specially made cooler, made from special aluminum, used by the army. These kind of coolers hardly have any pressure loss.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/kolja1/Mersukuvat5/cooleri.jpg

For oil cooling I use B&M oil coolers (made in Canada), biggest ones available, one for engine oil and one for the tranny, located in front of the wheels:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/kolja1/Mersukuvat4/oljynjaahdytin.jpg

I have installed some additional gauges, Autometer water temperature (far left) SPA Technique Oli temperature / Oil temperature digital dual gauge for engine - and tranny oil. On the right side on the dashboard there is Autometer Boost - and oil pressure gauges.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/kolja1/Mersukuvat5/kojelauta.jpg

And this is what the whole package looks like:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/kolja1/Mersukuvat4/konehuone.jpg

And what comes to EGR, please disable that, it is very easy by just disconnecting the vacuum line that comes to EGR valve. Of course you must block the line so you don't mix up the vacuum system.

In diesels too rich mixture really increases the temperature of exhaust gasses, that is right, but in order to get the best output, the engine should leave a little smoke. For excample that "Liukasta" - video that you have in this thread, the car has too low boost at the time, we didn't have time to adjust it to the optimal level, and it was left to 1.4 bars, 1.8 - 2 bars would be the best, with that boost it doesn't smoke that bad

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  #77  
Old 12-13-2004, 08:00 AM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Wayyyyyy cool

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1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #78  
Old 12-13-2004, 08:02 AM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Installed my boost controller tonight...yippie!
With the current ALDA adjustment getting things back in spec drivability...the little few added PSI of boost is nice.
A hopeful christmas present will be a EGT
and then...on to bigger and better things..
for tweakings sake...

I need to pick up a hole saw for the panel I am mounting my autometer guages.................EGT Pyrometer, Boost adn Voltmeter, for my W116, panel will replace the Ashtray I never need being a non-smoker.
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #79  
Old 12-13-2004, 09:59 AM
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That reminds me. Does anyone know of A-pillar gauge pods that will fit the W124? In the 'Dieselboost Demo' movie with the W201 SuperTurbos, the red car has two gauges mounted on the A-pillar (see photo attached below). There are none made specifially for Mercedes that I know of, but is there one for some other car that can be made to fit...?

Attached Thumbnails
boost controller install...-gauges.jpg  
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  #80  
Old 12-13-2004, 12:15 PM
Newbie Benz Dood
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 147
I used a 2 inch holesaw for my install, and put the gauge in the ashtray panel (removed ashtray and just kept the wood) the 2 inch worked good but it was a little on the tight side. Some clearing with a file was required for a nice fit. Hope this helps!
man, wouldnt it be sweet to have an HX-40 on a 617? Wonder if any pump shops here in the states could tackle that project and how much it would cost......shipping to finland isnt cheap im sure! Displacement of the 617 is more than the 603 isnt it? 603s are 2.5L and the 617 is 3.0L?
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  #81  
Old 12-13-2004, 12:45 PM
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OM616 = 2.4L, 4-cyl
OM617 = 3.0L, 5-cyl

OM603.97x = 3.5L, 6-cyl
OM603.96x = 3.0L, 6-cyl
OM602.96x = 2.5L, 5-cyl
OM601.92x = 2.2L, 4-cyl
OM601.91x = 2.0L, 4-cyl

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  #82  
Old 12-14-2004, 10:34 PM
phantoms's Avatar
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This is not a Mercedes, but rather a video of a Dodge Ram Diesel running a 13 second quarter mile and further down the page, a picture of a full-out diesel drag truck.

http://www.edgeproducts.com/cool_stuff.html
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  #83  
Old 01-01-2005, 12:17 AM
Brandon314159
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QUestion for the forum, and perhaps SYRacing..

Where is a good location for the pyrometer thermocouple on the mercedes benz turbo? I was looking at my goods under the air cleaner and trying to decide where to put the probe in. Any help with this would be much appreciated as I can probably fasion something up but perhaps there is something better?

I will be doing this install tomorrow or thereabouts so we will see how it goes
at the very least, I will be making a DIY page about how to install a pyrometer in the 617turbo engines

Also a boost gauge

Wish me luck...

Brandon
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  #84  
Old 01-04-2005, 02:14 PM
Brandon314159
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Pyrometer is installed...it works good..keep your eyes peeled for the DIY page as it will be up soon.
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  #85  
Old 01-04-2005, 02:30 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
QUestion for the forum, and perhaps SYRacing..

Where is a good location for the pyrometer thermocouple on the mercedes benz turbo? I was looking at my goods under the air cleaner and trying to decide where to put the probe in. Any help with this would be much appreciated as I can probably fasion something up but perhaps there is something better?

I will be doing this install tomorrow or thereabouts so we will see how it goes
at the very least, I will be making a DIY page about how to install a pyrometer in the 617turbo engines

Also a boost gauge

Wish me luck...

Brandon
Best place would be pre-turbo at a common juntion point.....I feared having it crack with thermal cycling so I put mine imediately post turbo.
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #86  
Old 01-04-2005, 02:40 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
Best place would be pre-turbo at a common juntion point.....I feared having it crack with thermal cycling so I put mine imediately post turbo.
Hmm good point...(too late now! )
I guess I will just have to stop driving though those foot deep puddles..

Also, the manifold is pretty decent metal...it tapped out real nice.
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  #87  
Old 01-04-2005, 03:35 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Hmm good point...(too late now! )
I guess I will just have to stop driving though those foot deep puddles..

Also, the manifold is pretty decent metal...it tapped out real nice.
You probibly have nothing to worry about.

I had mine off a few months ago when I put my Block heater in.....I did it from above....and didn't want to buy another set of gaskets even just a turbo gasket again.
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #88  
Old 01-04-2005, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
Best place would be pre-turbo at a common juntion point.....I feared having it crack with thermal cycling so I put mine imediately post turbo.
There is going to be a definite drop in exhaust temperature after the exhaust passes through the turbo. Placing the pyrometer after the turbo is fine, however, using 1200 F. as the limit would not be prudent, IMHO.
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  #89  
Old 01-04-2005, 05:06 PM
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Are there 'normally accepted' temp limits using a pyro? I've been tempted to use the threaded hole about 2 inches away from the #1 exhaust port on my OM603, but wasn't sure if that was too close to the exhaust valve or not.

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  #90  
Old 01-04-2005, 05:13 PM
Newbie Benz Dood
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
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centered mine up in the middle of the manifold....just before the bridge in the manifold. Tapped out very easily. Reinstalling the manifolds on the other hand..............Just got back from vacation, benz is running as good as ever...letting the funds build up so I can do more things to it...3 inch exhaust is next!
I've already posted my findings with the alda maxed and the boost pressure @ 17psi it is possible for temps to reach 1200F. Hoping exhaust will drop it....although an intercooler would too
Putting the EGT post turbo is pointless imo......sorry but thats just my opinion.
EGT should be measured pre-turbo! Having it pre-turbo is universal to all diesel engines. Whether its a big CAT engine or our 617s...It's almost universal between engine to engine....now measure after the turbo on each engine and you will find that one is hotter/colder than the other. That's all im going to say about it...I know its a hell of a lot easier to put it post turbo because shoe-horning the manifolds back in is not the easiest task.

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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque

Last edited by SYRacing; 01-04-2005 at 05:22 PM.
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