I am rebuilding another "80" 616. Last time the machine shop removed the oil gallery plugs but not the steel ball bearings at the tranny end..... 1) How do it do this and reinstall them w/o the "special" tool ? Or can I clean out the gallery w/o removing the balls?

2) No place will "hot tank" stuff anymore so what would be a good thing to put in the block cooling jacket to clean it out good?

Thanks and a good morning to all

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Maybe that tool is called " special" because it is Necessary ?
I think you absolutely have to take the balls out to clean that area. It is made for being able to take them out to clean it.
I would pack up the block after you get all holes uncapped and take it to the local car wash.... and use plenty of the engine degreaser and then high pressure soap and then hot water rinse..
On the other hand.... if you split the side of a metal 55 gallon barrel and put Kerosene and concentrated Gunk and the block in it.. and let it sit a few days before the same procedure at the car wash it might be even better.

Greg

I like the car wash idea after I get the boring done, but I was thinking about the deposits in the water jacket, maybe its no big deal, just looks like a little calcium type junk in there.

I am hoping someone that has taken out those ball bearings will fill me in. The book says they can be re used if there not buggered. This engine has no crank damage so thats good,... wont have to go through the re grinding and balance thing anyway. It was an automatic as there is a 12 and not a 10 in the eng # so I will have to find those little marks on crank and flywheel. I didn't look when I took them apart. The PO set it up for a manual. Yikes just thought about it now....unless he had it balanced the little marks wouldn't mean anything because the flywheel is from another engine.....comments appreciated

Steve

I do think it is a big deal.. and encourage you to get it looking like you want it to.... I think over the long lives of our engines that not ' vatting' in some manner often adds up to a lack of reserve cooling ability... which is subtle and slow in happening... and then is very serious when something else starts declining... like the radiator core slowly clogging up....
I would do the car wash deal into those cavities first... then dry... because you have to have all the oil/grease off before anything like ' MetalPrep" ( phosphoric acid ) will do its job...
Then turn it into position (s) with duct tape sealing whatever holes you have to and put in the dilute acid... just like you would treat surfaces for painting....
Typically you would be using weak enough acid that you would leave the block with this in it overnight to work....
I still have not figured out why the MB engineers used this ball system for sealing the end of that passage. It seems like a good screw in plug would have been fine.
If you are sure they are Calcium deposits... if they are still there after the acid... then maybe you could try some of those things they suggest on TV... like CLR..... but I still think any of those things require oily films to be removed first. Ethylene Glycol seems oily to me.