thanks for all your replies on the "can i trust jiffy lube"
let me apologize for my lack of terminology, i have been searching but have not found what i am looking for, maybey due to my weak Mercedes vocabulary!
on the vacumm mechanism that has aline that leads the the transmission, there are two little metal protusions that point to the passenger side. when i pull on the throttle linkage, it appears part of the mechanism is supposed to touch the upper small metal protusion, and when the throttle is closed it appears as if the part of the mechanism is supposed to touch the lower metal protrusion. mine do not tough these metal protrusions at anytime. Any ideas what i am talking about?
thanks for the help. 1980 300td with later model engine (possibly transmision) with a turbo
will

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'73 VW camper
'80 300td wagon

oohhh. ooooh
i just found out i may be talking about the ?modulator?
maybey....
thanks

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'73 VW camper
'80 300td wagon

Are you talking about the white bleeder valve on top of the injector pump? See the pictures here, 03 is a pretty good one of it.

http://207.210.95.34/~boostd/Vacuum

It shouldn't touch the upper or lower stops. It isn't the modulator but it is what feeds the vacuum to the modulator, the modulator itself is on or in the tranny.

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Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

thank you. yes, thats it. great, i thought it should touch the stops, glad i did not try to adjust it "properly".
now what is the best oil to use? J/K
will

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'73 VW camper
'80 300td wagon

i've got a question about the top pin.

i read in an article on adjusting the transmssion that the flat on
the lever of the linkage should have a clearance of 0.5 mm or
0.020" from the pin. does that sound correct? my car is a good
1/4" gap or better at full throttle. when i tried to adjust it, i could
bearly get any movement toward the pin. i'm not sure i'm adjusting the right piece of linkage. i tried to adjust the linkage
to the front on the engine side of the ip pump that attaches to a ball on the engine side of the pump.

am i barking up the wrong tree here?

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rayroyw
_______
'85 380SE (238,300) my "new" old car!
'84 300D (303,000+)
'72 250/8 (mercy heaven)

The only place you should be able to adjust out the play in the IP bleeder valve like that would be right by the bleeder valve. It comes from the motor, then goes to the IP and pivots on that somewhere, on the other side of that pivot there is an adjustable linkage which you can make longer or shorter as you please. It seems like it is easiest to pop the whole rod off that goes to the bleeder valve in order to change length. Yes .5mm sounds right.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

thanks, jeff.

just went to your website (bookmarked it) and you've got the mbz article on adjusting 123 and 126 trannys. that's where i got the measurement from.

i take it the linkage to adjust is the rod directly connected to
the piece with the flat? it seemed like i got more movement by
disconnecting the one to the front of the pump, but obviously
i was wrong there.

__________________
rayroyw
_______
'85 380SE (238,300) my "new" old car!
'84 300D (303,000+)
'72 250/8 (mercy heaven)

Correct, you'll also want to set that other one back where it was as it'll make your IP max out with less movement of the accelerator if you don't.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

roger that.

i finally looked at the cd and found the adjustment on that with a photo of the back side of the pump.

thanks again.

__________________
rayroyw
_______
'85 380SE (238,300) my "new" old car!
'84 300D (303,000+)
'72 250/8 (mercy heaven)