Master link with e-clips will work fine, or you can do what I did -- press the old link I ground the pins down on back on. You can also use the new center bar, it fits VERY tight. Very unlikely to come off while you are pulling the chain around.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

My wife helped me! She did great! Everything went together beautifully. Now the TDC mark on the cam tower is dead-on with the TDC mark on the balancer.

Now I will install new valve seals and a diaphram in the vacuum pump and then on to the driveshaft. Btw, someone had boogered with the driveshaft and it was not clamped together so when I removed it from the donor car it came out in two pieces. Two UNMARKED pieces I should say. I didn't even think to check to see if the large clamping nut was tight before I pulled on it. Now what do I do? I have every bit of confidence in the world that I can replace the center bearing and mount but I can't see ANY markings, factory or otherwise, on either section of the driveshaft.

Kevin

1. Valve seals- Been there done that! EASY

2. Water Pump- Been there done that! EASY

3. Replace diaphram style vacuum pump with piston style.

4. New seal rings for the injectors- precautionary, cheap
and easy!

5. Set start of delivery for IP, Drip Method- Not so sure
about that!

6. Adapt oil separator from '82 240D to '80 300D. I wish I had
a newer style upper oil pan. Unchartered waters for me!

If there is anything else you guys can think of that I might need to do while this engine is out and on the stand then please let me know (other than rebuild). The more I can do to this engine while it is out the better.

Kevin

You could probably help me out with a few more comments on how you replaced the valve stem oil seals. The tools involved, procedure, etc.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

Kevin:

I just completed a project that has a few similarities and I can offer a little bit of advice here and there:

1. I would opt for a differential from a 300. I left the one in from my 240 (donar car) and it is screaming at 70 mph. It has a 300DT to push it (and a manual). Gets out of the hole nice but doesn't have anywhere to go. Apparently the '85 had the best ratio for a differential. Eventually I'll throw the one in from my mangled '83 300D simply because I have it and its free.

2. I echo what someone else said. Get a different driveshaft unless you are certain you can fix your center bearing issue. Mine also came apart (unmarked) and I was fortunate, because 1000 miles on the road so far and its working well.

3. Regarding radiator and oil cooler:

a. I put the larger one in from the 300 along with its oil cooler mate and i'm please with it.
b. On another of my 300D's, I just replaced the radiator with one from a euro 300 and didn't pay attention enough to its size. It ended up being wider so I also had to replace the oil cooler with a narrower one. This may prove to be a bummer once summer comes. But summer only comes between July 7 and July 14 in Michigan.

4. Can't help with the transmission cooler lines. I simply cut mine cuz its now a manual.

Don

__________________
DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

On the valve stem seals you DON'T have to pump air pressure into the cylinder to keep the valves from falling. Just use common sense.

1. Remove the valve cover & rocker arm assemblies and keep
up with where they go. Do not mix match! My .02 cents!

2. Rotate the engine clockwise until the cylinder you are
working on has both valves CLOSED (cam lobes up for
the valve you are working on).

3. Take a long bar (long wrench will do) and lay it flat across
the top of the valve stem asjusting nut and press down( one
hand on each end of the wrench) until you are sure that the
valve "bottoms out" on the piston top. Keep in mind that the
valve spring has NOT been removed yet so you will need to
press with some force. Once you have determined that the
valve is not going to fall down into the cylinder then you can
disassemble the valve stem nuts and spring only for the
valve you are working on. You can remove the two valve
stem assemblies for that cylinder but I prefer to work on one
thing at a time. Less to lose or screw up!

4. Remove the old seal. I used needle nosed pliers. The
old seals will come off with some mild persuasion.

5. Place the protective seeve (which SHOULD come with your
new seals) over the valve stem and then place the new seal
over the stem as well and press the new seals into place.

6. Move to you next valve (rinse, lather, repeat ).

I am sure that someone has a better, more "engineered" ( no offense to any engineers out there) way of doing this but this works for me. Please note, I will add that on #3 in MY procedure you can rotate the engine SLOWLY to achieve a higher "bottom out" position. Make sure it's clockwise and NO valve springs are removed. The valve will rest on the piston top while you work on it.

Kevin

I need to know which driveshaft to use.

Again, I am transplanting a 300D N/A into a 240D chassis. I have a 300D driveshaft and a 240D driveshaft. Which one?

I bought an '81 240D (broke timing chain) with a 4-speed manual and have ALL the parts to do the swap but really wanted some clear answers on the driveshaft.

I know this is the place to get answers.

Kevin