Hood Release Cable - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

RML · #16 08-23-2008, 10:13 PM

I recently started the job of replacing the hood release cable on my 84 300D, becuase I had to pull really far to get the hood to open. It also did not spring back that well. When I detached the cable at the point where it connects at the latch, I discovered that there is an adjustment that can be made to effectively shorten the cable. This and a good lubrication on the cable and the latch fixed it up really well and I did not need to replace it. I kind of figured there was an adjustment somewhere but did not see it until I started to disconnect the cable. I also found that the rubber grommet at the firewall was out. It was hard to push in until I lubed it up and then it inserted a lot easier. I suspect a lot of hood release cables are replaced when all that is needed is an adjustment and a good lubrication.

TatyOn2 · #17 08-24-2008, 02:23 AM

Thanks 2 the both of you for the responses. Without a grille to obscure my view, I ended up figuring out WHICH cable was the correct one (lightly tugging @ all of them lightly)...Then I had to buy batteries for a flashlight that hadn't been used it ions, but it helped me find where I had to perform "screwdriver methon". It popped open just like that! The metal on the latch under the hood is really oxidized, so I'm sure that made it more difficult.

I do notice Richard, that the cable is in fact really loose and cannot be pulled tight enough to pop it open from the release latch under the dash. I know the cable itself isn't snapped because I can see the slack portioin in the front tighten up when I pull on the under-dash release latch. Or so I'd like to assume?? So, as suggested, I will look to disassemble it and tighten the cable. I'll check the rubber on the fire wall as well. Question though: Where exactly do I need to lubricate? The release latch under the dash and/or the metal latch mounted under the hood?

Sorry for all the novice"ness"; I still can't find anyone with a manual!

RML · #18 08-24-2008, 10:25 AM

Taty: Where do you lubricate? Everywhere you can find. Lubrication will help where metal contacts metal and will also keep parts from rusting. I had the latch assembly out and worked some grease into the spring. It has been a few months since I worked on it but when I am in the garage today I'll take another look at it and maybe I can be more specific.

The adjustment is a male threaded sheath going into a female threaded nut. It is the same system that is used on bicycle cables to tighten them when they stretch. I know there is a name for it but I cannot recall it. It sits right under the front cross member in front of and at the top of the radiator.

Edit: Whoops - I just realized that you have a 190E. It may be different than my 84 300D. I am not familiar with the 190 so maybe someone else can chime in. You might want to go to www.performanceproducts4benz.com. They have some very good schematics and you may be able to see how your latch works and how the parts fit together. But come back here to order your parts.

TatyOn2 · #19 08-27-2008, 12:01 AM

Thanks RML!....turns out there was a tiny leak in my Radiator too, and some other busted things...I'll be working on my car for a while...good times!

sd300td · #20 07-07-2009, 09:37 PM

Just replaced my cable today and wanted to add a few comments to Bruce's instructions; which are the most comprehensive for the w123 that I've found.

First, once the black plastic cover is removed determine if the cable just needs adjustment. There is a 10mm barrel adjustment and a couple of 10mm retaining nuts. You can tighten the spring using the barrel adjustment. Lube everything and see if this corrects your problem. I think this is all that my vehicle needed but once I was in to the task and had the OEM replacement cable in hand, I just replaced it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce Bonds

First of all here is what mine was doing wrong. When I pulled the trigger to open the hood, it released the latch fine, but would not spring back to the original position. I had to manually push the trigger back in to make the cable push the latch to the lockdown position. I figured there was something wrong with the latch so I lubed everything, and when that didn't work I replaced the latch with one from salvage. It didn't work either so I went back to the yard and got the cable. Now I have $6 invested, but I got to practice on the salvage car. Turns out, my cable was pinched.

1. Move the aux fan out of the way. One clamp on each side with 8mm bolts, and a screw at the bottom of the circle. You don't have to unplug the fan but you might want to cut the black pull-tight thingy that holds the cord to the mount. You can put a new one on later.

Rather than cutting the back zip tie, you may be able to unfasten it with a screwdriver and reuse. This one is a basic zip tie, unlike the fastener attached to the fender wall, so it doesn't matter as much if its cut.

2. Loosen the hood latch by removing the four tight screws.
VERY TIGHT! I went ahead and stripped two of these screws and had to drill them out. Now I get to go to the boneyard tomorrow morning...

3. Remove the black plastic tray that is under the hood latch. I don't know the purpose of this part, but if you think of one let me know. There are two black plastic plug type clips that hold it up. I was able to re-use mine but you have to be careful. Each is two pieces, a plug with a plastic screw in the center. Squeeze the screw with a pair of pliers and back it out of the plug. After you get these two plugs out, just snake the tray to your left while pulling down.

I'm 100% certain that this is a security device. May also help to keep debris out of the latch, but one would be hard pressed to get at the latch without removing this piece.

4. Detach the hood latch from the cable. The clamp is a bit tricky, but don't break it because you have to reuse it. Look at the cable from the under side and you will see the metal clamp that squeezes around the metal tip on the cable. Push up on the clamp and it will come off the cable and swivel upward. There is a post on the other end of the clamp that holds the bottom of the latch to the cable. Carefully slide this post out of the hole. I wedged mine out with a screwdriver.

pop the clamp off the cable, then push the post through the latch enough so that the clamp clears the latch...then it comes right off.

5. Detach the cable assembly from its mount. You will see that the cable-end is mounted to the body by two 10mm bolts. Back one off and pull the cable toward you.

6. Follow the cable backwards and reach under the backside of the headlight. There is a plactic clip that you can reuse if you don't break it. Unclip the cable.

7. Keep following the cable back toward the firewall. If there is a black plactic strap/clip holding the cable to a wiring harness, just cut it. You can put a plastic pull-tight on it later.
Don't cut this pull-tight. It's made so that the mechanic can undo and refasten as needed. Not yer typical zip-tie as it has a post that attaches to the fender wall.

8. Remove the 8mm screw that holds the relay box to the wheelwell. Take off the black plastic cover and detach the two relays from their mounts. They come off easy with a screwdriver. With the 8mm screw out and the relays and their wire harnesses out of the way it is easier to get the cable out from under it.

Not needed on my 82 wagon. The cable slides underneath easily. I suppose other cars may be a little different?

9. Now snake the cable out from under the hood latch end. When you have it free all the way to the firewall, you are ready to work on the cabin end.

10. Remove the trigger from its mount. Two 10mm bolts hold it to the mount.

8mm bolts used on my '82 TD

11. Remove the cable attachment from the trigger. There is a metal cylinder shaped end that fits in a slot on the trigger.

The next two steps apply because I found it too hard the remove the firewall rubber grommet, even though my replacement cable had a grommet on it.

12. There is a five inch rubber tube surrounding the cable on the cabin side. Cut it off. It won't slide through the grommet.

13. Lubricate the cabin end of the cable, especially that metal cylinder and go around to the front of the firewall and pull the cable out toward the front.

Removing the old rubber grommet requires a little tug, but it'll come off. Pull from the outside away from the firewall.

Getting the new grommet to pop into the firewall hole takes considerably more effort.

I found that a lot of pressure while rotating the grommet/cable worked. You really need to lean into it. Push it in from the firewall side. Put the hood in its vertical position so you have more room. Make sure that the cable in the cabin is free and clear and not stuck behind the driverside kickpanel. I used every bit of my 200lbs of girth.

And, as they always say in the Haynes manuals, "Install new part using same steps in reverse order." Sorry this was so long, and lacks technical terms, but I hope it helps.

This helped a lot, thanks! Just be sure to try adjusting the cable before buying a new one and going through all the effort. The cable is a solid metal line, not a braided cable like a bicycle has on it. It could be kinked as well at the pull handle, but I'm willing to bet that lube and adjustment would work in 90% of the cases.

One more thing that I wanted to share was that a new cable may still need to be adjusted properly. The biggest pain for me was removing the black plastic security cover. Since this needs to be done in order to adjust the cable, make every effort to adjust it before reassembly of the cover and aux fan.

I didn't adjust it correctly and now have a put together car with a cable that needs to be adjusted, which I'll probably tackle tomorrow. My mistake was not fastening the lower driver side dash panel before testing the cable and latch. Everything worked smoothly and flawlessly, but once I fastened the lower drive side dash panel I found that the latch lever barely has sufficient travel needed to unlatch the latch easily. I can still get it open, but it takes a tug of the handle which bumps/hits the lower dash panel. I think if you tighten the spring using the barrel adjuster, lever travel will be reduced and unlatching would take place sooner, i.e. with less lever travel....

edge · #21 08-15-2013, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sd300td

Just replaced my cable today and wanted to add a few comments to Bruce's instructions; which are the most comprehensive for the w123 that I've found.

First, once the black plastic cover is removed determine if the cable just needs adjustment. There is a 10mm barrel adjustment and a couple of 10mm retaining nuts. You can tighten the spring using the barrel adjustment. Lube everything and see if this corrects your problem. I think this is all that my vehicle needed but once I was in to the task and had the OEM replacement cable in hand, I just replaced it.

This helped a lot, thanks! Just be sure to try adjusting the cable before buying a new one and going through all the effort. The cable is a solid metal line, not a braided cable like a bicycle has on it. It could be kinked as well at the pull handle, but I'm willing to bet that lube and adjustment would work in 90% of the cases.

One more thing that I wanted to share was that a new cable may still need to be adjusted properly. The biggest pain for me was removing the black plastic security cover. Since this needs to be done in order to adjust the cable, make every effort to adjust it before reassembly of the cover and aux fan.

I didn't adjust it correctly and now have a put together car with a cable that needs to be adjusted, which I'll probably tackle tomorrow. My mistake was not fastening the lower driver side dash panel before testing the cable and latch. Everything worked smoothly and flawlessly, but once I fastened the lower drive side dash panel I found that the latch lever barely has sufficient travel needed to unlatch the latch easily. I can still get it open, but it takes a tug of the handle which bumps/hits the lower dash panel. I think if you tighten the spring using the barrel adjuster, lever travel will be reduced and unlatching would take place sooner, i.e. with less lever travel....

Thank you! Great instructions, WD-40 the cable under the black cover and at the pull handle under the dash. Tightened the slack in the adjustable nut, good to go.

upod · #22 07-18-2019, 07:36 PM

I am having some trouble finding where the hood cable enters the firewall on a w124. Any w124 owners, feel free to chime in!

I have the unfortunate luck of the previous owner already removing the hood cable completely, and have no idea where the hood cable should pass through in the firewall.

In his instructions (in post #2), whunter mentions to pull the cable through the firewall but I couldn't find any photos online as to where this location is.

Any tips/photos of where I should pull the cable through will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

upod · #23 07-19-2019, 12:12 AM

After much prodding and poking I have figured it out. The insertion point is on the driver's side, directly between the fuse box and the hood hinge, and quite difficult to gain access to. Long needle nose pliers, and a flexible grab tool were both essential in getting the cable positioned correctly as there is very little working room. The hood must be open at 90 degrees to do the job as well.

The pelican parts pictorial (which isn't too detailed) rates this as a 1 hour and 2 wrench job. I think this is greatly underestimated and this comes from someone who has professionally removed engines, transmissions, and rebuilt suspensions (etc). I would plan on at least 3 hours for this job from start to finish even with a full set of tools on hand, and that's if you already know how to quickly and safely remove the panels below the steering wheel without breaking anything!

I have posted photos below of the location of where the hood cable inserts as viewed from the engine bay and by after it enter's the passenger's cabin, so that anyone else doing this job has reference to it, as there was no photographic documentation here or on pelicanparts.

As everyone was saying above, the rubber grommet does need to be removed (unless you were to cut off the stub at the end of the cable and then re-attach it somehow once it enters underneath the dashboard.