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#1
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York AC stay or go ?
I know this is a off season question and we gota square away those GP problems but I could use a little advice about York ACs I have to remove it (move it aside) to change out the chain tensioner in my 78 240D. What I am about to do is just get rid of all the AC things as I dont plan to use this car where I would need it plus its in the way. My question is, is this unit any good if it does work? My "85" euro has an AC which is our road car but maybe I should put up with the hassle if this unit is good. Whacha think?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#2
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You have not tried the air to see if it works ?
If it is non-working, and if you can live without the air and plan to keep the car until it dies, I would say remove the "dead weight" and sell it on e-bay or something.
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Diesel-guy |
#3
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Sure hate to see it wasted...
On my 75 all that I needed to do was charge the system and it blows really cold.
If the parts are all functioning I think I would leave them on. Just my .02... Adds to the value too.
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'99 S420 - Mommies '72 280SE 4.5 - looking to breathe life into it '84 300SD Grey - Sold '85 300SD Silver - Sold '78 Ski Nautique |
#4
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Leave it alone. Just remove it temporarily and wire it out of the way. Just take off the belt and leave it there. It's not hurting anything and could easily be put back in service with a conversion to R134.
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Orland Park, IL 1985 300SD 215,000 miles |
#5
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Thanks for all the feed back. I was told that "all it needed was charging" when I bought the car and have no reason to believe otherwise as I got it from a friend. The car was totaled due to rear end damage and I just did some horse trading to get it fixed. So the York is a good unit if it works but must be converted to R134?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" Last edited by Stevo; 12-27-2003 at 10:31 PM. |
#6
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I have a York in my 75 240D. According to my old timer mechanic, the York is very durable, but, being a piston type compressor, is not a candidate for 134 conversion.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#7
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Palangi
"not a candidate for 134 conversion. " So does that mean I have to find a "renagade" AC man if it needs charging? Or am I back to ripping it out?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#8
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Quote:
Do a search in here for "LP" "Propane" "134" "R12" Some combination of those key words should find you the post on the stuff. The post are a battle of wills, philosophy and a little conspiracy thrown in too lol, but they are a good read. Deside for yourself if you want to use it.
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"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way". by JerryBro The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels |
#9
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Steve, if it's a verticle mount York and you want to dump it let me know and I'll buy it from ya. I need one(w/brackets) to use as a compressor for an OBA system to use air tools on my CJ that's getting the 240D motor.
Otherwise keep it. Yorks are much more long lived than the junk rotary units. Westbay sells the conversion kit to swap juices and I've got the gauges to do it. The system will need to have a vacuum drawn on it for at least 1/2 hr before filling but I also have a vacuum pump that runs off an air compressor but it needs a "steady" 90psi to run and my little shop compressor won't do it but if yours does you're go to go. Give me a call if if you either want to refill it or dump it. |
#10
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coachgeo
thanks for that, We are real close to Canada, sounds like an option. Joe ..I have a York compressor I took off my "other" blue car, its yours. It does seem if the one on this car works, I should get it going, I'll call ya Good feed back, lots to think about
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#11
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Yorks are cheap to buy either rebuilt or new, but are very prone via their piston design to vibration which can be felt in the driver's seat. Yorks rob a fair amount of engine output as well.
Positive points is that they were used on a wide variety of MB and non-MB cars and are well understood, easily available, and repairable if so desired. A more viable option is to replace a York with a rotary unit, these are made by a number of firms. These are smoother, require less engine output to operate, and in general are a bit more efficient in their own output (cool air temp in the cabin) than the York designs. In general they are a bit more expensive than Yorks but are easily available. A number of firms make them, including Nippondenso, Fridigiaire, Sanden and several other firms. An added benefit is that rotary compressors can be used with either R-12 or R134a. However, other elements of the A/C system have to be changed in order to provide the best-efficiency conversion. If you don't want to use A/C, as said I'd just remove the belt and let it sit. You should assume that there are leaks in the system (with any old A/C system) and that these would need to be repaired. Depending on your whims and budget this is your decision. Certainly you won't have the drag on the system by not employing the system at all, which is a plus. However, my philosophy is that it's nice to have all systems on a car working, so I'd (over time) make the investment to have the compressor rebuilt (or install a rebuilt unit) and have the system tested with dye to determine where, if any, leaks are present. Good luck! Cheers, Gerry |
#12
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Steve, I have read that some ac compressors take up to 8 hp at max load.... if you change to a nice smooth rotary you may free up 4-5 hp for your car to use for acceleration ( not that it is slow).... and it will free up lots of room for doing stuff in the engine compartment... and you will not believe how much smoother you whole car would be...
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#13
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Steve
I'm not an A/C tech by a long shot, but I think he means that because the pressures are higher with 134, the piston type compressor has a hard time making the compression stroke, wheras in a rotary compressor, it's continuous, so not as much of a problem. Mine works great on R12, however, it's not easy to stop the belt from squealing.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#14
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More "food for thought" .... Most people I know around here don't care about AC since its not needed unless you venture over the mountains or down to the interior valleys in summer. It sure seems like a major component to maintain and deal with and according to "Murphys Law" it wont work when I need it anyway, think its outa here ..... Good input...thanks all
Steve |
#15
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Take it off, seal the ends, box it... and then if you ever try to sell it to a ' lowlander' you can use that as a selling point....
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