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#1
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Removing back panels on 300CD
My back windows don't work properly; right one go's down slow and the left one opens only half way.
My question is how do I safely remove the back panels, tried it ones with bad result; broke the clips of the b-pillar panel and could not get the panel itself nicely back in place. Before starting on this adventure, any tips to do it the right way.
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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue). |
#2
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You need to remove the rear seat in order to get to the rear panels.
My rear windows don't work all that well either, however I also put them down by gently pushing on them when I put them down, and gently pulling up on them when I roll them back up. In the summer I just leave all the windows down when I go places, I just figure I don't have anything in the car for people to take, and they can go ahead and steal the car if they like... |
#3
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Before taking it apart try spraying the window tracks with silicone.
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#4
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Yes, the rear seatbench needs to come out. It's easy to remove though. Just push in the two orange tabs in front of the seat.
You could also remove the seatback for easier access but I did not find it useful to remove them. Then there are two screws just below the rear seatbacks (one for each panel) that holds the panels to the frame. Look for them, they are at the bottom of the panels near the wheel wells. Then you have to take the power window switch out remove the chrome covers on the door jam area I just removed my plastic C-Pillar panels by force and nothing broke so far. I learnt to put them back slowly and carefully though. work on the right one first - lubricate the track using some sort of grease and lubricate the regulator's jaws too. See if that helps that side work correctly. With the panel off, slowly raise and lower the windows... get familiar with how the whole thing works and how it's supposed to know when it needs to stop, etc. Then work on the defective one! Mine also went down halfway. I fixed it by installing the arm that connects the window regulator and the window itself correctly. (There are two ways of installing it... only one is right ) but seriously... once they work... the coupe looks REALLY nice! So many CD posts lately... really make me want to buy another one
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2008 BMW 335i Coupe |
#5
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What about the metal strip on top of the panel next to the window; is it supposed to come of with the panel, do I have to take it of first....?
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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue). |
#6
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Great question!
My wife's coupe has one panel pulled out of the aluminum trim on top. The panel will NOT go back in.
Once everything is loose, slowly work the trim piece upward, supporting the panel as you do so. DO NOT pull on the panel. Use a tool to work the trim upward. Don't let the two separate. They'll never go back together. Not easily, anyway.
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Dale '67 Volvo 122 '79 Rabbit Diesel '79 M-B 300TD '82 M-B 300D '83 M-B 300CD '85 M-B 300TD '86 Isuzu P'up TD and a couple of Hondas |
#7
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I realized that when I tried it the first time when I just had the car. Broke the clips on the C-pillar panel and didn't get the panel nicely back in place.
So the chrome strip is supposed to come out with the panel?
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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue). |
#8
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Is the chrome strip supposed to come off with the panel? What happens if it is disconnected? Is it repairable?
Thanks!
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#9
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That strip holds the window felt. It ca either stay or come off with the panel. It's held on to the car with metal clips. If it stays you'll have to put the panel under it carefully (PITA). If it comes off with the panel you'll have to tap the clips back into place. No Biggy
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'70 F100 shortbed '82 Diesel Westy '83 Euro 300TD Curtlo Viper Yeti ARC Surly long haul trucker |
#10
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ive never been able to get these out in one piece, even worse is fiding a good one in the yard and not being able to get the window down to remove it. I am going to have to rebuild mine eventually as well. if someone has a step by step I would be interested as well
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#11
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Quote:
Once disassembled and out of the car, I could not get the chrome strip to stay attached on the bad one. I presume the panel warps and pulls away and there's not enough retaining force on the chrome to counteract that. I also seem to remember trying to force it back onto the vinyl started to tear. I put them back in the way they came out: one good, one loose. |
#12
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Im thinking I will build new ones from scratch, I will replace the cardboard with a plastic sheet that can be glued and screwed to get things to stay put. I have a beemer seat set Im going to replace my interior with because I dont like the seats in my 123 anyway. I like having side bolsters and I dont like the arm rest in the rear. all future stuff, need to get my ground effects and paint on too.
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
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