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#1
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I can only find one guy locally that has the guts to replace the rear windshield seal on my 1983 300 D, all the other glass installers are afraid they will break it during removal, what gives?? Is it that hard to remove????
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2000 Ford 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 2006 Mazda Tribute 1983 Black 300 D (donated to charity) 1993 Teal 300 D (160K) Sold "I love the smell of burnt diesel fuel in the morning, it smells like ....VICTORY" Semper Fidelis USMC 1973-1976 |
#2
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Don't know if that particular glass is in rubber or urethene, but any glass installer I have ever come across will NEVER guarantee not to break the glass in an R & I situation. Better get it in writing.
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95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K 07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K 02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K 05 F150 Silver 44K |
#3
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These usually pop right out, but if someone used RTV to seal it in, they can be a real PITA. Very unusual for a glass shop to guarentee non-breakage, it happens too often.
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#4
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Had the shop replace the rear seal last summer. Before they would do it they had me read and initial a disclaimer about how this is glass and it can break.
Sure, why not. Anyway that is an expensive piece of glass. Don't proceed without paying up your insurance premiums. |
#5
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It's an easy job!!!
Yes, nobody will be liable removing a windshield against breakage. If they know what they are doing(get someone that knows mercedes), it's easy. Exactly like doing 60's mustangs or other cars with a seal. Mine, I was a chicken and paid somebody. They were whom the dealer used. My luck, they botched the job and it leaked alot worse than before. I pulled it and with a little help of my wife found he had caught the inner seal edge on the outside. Put it back together(old rope trick) and wal al! No leak. Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#6
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Quote:
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2000 Ford 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 2006 Mazda Tribute 1983 Black 300 D (donated to charity) 1993 Teal 300 D (160K) Sold "I love the smell of burnt diesel fuel in the morning, it smells like ....VICTORY" Semper Fidelis USMC 1973-1976 |
#7
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Understand,
Watch him do it and you'll feel alot more comfortable. I've been eyeing my W124 wondering how I'm going to do it. If the cd says the proceedure is the same- I'll do it too! Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#8
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I think the 124 cars have it also glued in as it is part of the body reinforcement...
JMH
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#9
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Anyone ever priced a rear shield for a 126 body?
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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions) '08 Chevy Tahoe '93 Ducati 900 SS '79 Kawasaki KZ 650 '86 Kawasaki KX 250 '88 Kawasaki KDX200 '71 Hodaka Ace 100 '72 Triumph T100R |
#10
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Can anyone post the basic procedure? Or a link to it?
I have pulled several windshields and backlights that were set in rubber channels with trim. This looks to be the same, but sometimes the details vary. In particular, where are the connections for the rear window defroster? Are there any tricks to removing them? |
#11
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If someone does not have a link I will type it in later in the day....but just to get the controversy started well... the Factory Shop manual says to use sealing compound in a couple of places.... part number 001 989 31 20...
LOL... there are always a few people in these threads who swear this is supposed to be done dry.... |
#12
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When i had mine replaced it was easy...just like 60s cars ala rope trick as samiam4 said...but where the sealent was there was surface rust trapped under....i was told that the newer seals have more sealent "power" and seat alot better than the ones origanilly put in...(i wanted to use the sealent as the book said - but i was told by people who have done hundreds of cars not to) so i put mine in dry - no leaks after it settled....the first few days i was seeing some weeping, but then it set (it was traveling under the glass in the seal and back into the interior - not under the seal on the car)....it is a very uncomfortable proccess...alot of pressing, banging and pushing - you will need handle suction cups. be mindful of teh chrome trim - and watch the rear headliner...mine had to be taken out then reset as the rope pulled the headliner "less than perfect" the first try...we tapped teh headliner down to the roof and locked it in place, second time - fine. oh-be careful you do not loose teh defrost screws and be care ful pulling of teh c pillar covers, they can break.
i did a new front ppg windshield and seal, and a new real seal at the same time...a new windshield is worth 200 bucks. ebay is filled with cheap cd manuls much like the oem disks...they have all the info you need, if you do not have a shop book (not haynes - a MB) to answer you question - is it hard to remove...no it pops right out, its putting back in perfect thats a tiny bit tricky. |
#13
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That is certainly true that they may have altered the composition of the rubber by now so it seals better by itself...
I was only posting what the FSM said.... and I love GOOs... LOL... and I have those suction cups...very helpful....particularly since I am a one man operation ..... |
#14
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goos are great until water / crap gets under them...then i hate them!
as far as teh seal..it was a bit gooie and soft..very plyable and caked in a mold release powder following teh specs is always a good idea |
#15
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What does it usually cost to have this done? Like the price of the new seal + paying them to do it?
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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